Lucky Phil

Move the shift mechanism through its travel and adjust to the gap at its closest point. I rechecked my notes and I adjusted mine to 0.035" or 0.9mm its not too critical unless its too tight which will be obvious when you run it through the positions on the bench. 1mm or 0.040" would be acceptable I should think. Ciao Ciao I wish I understood better where this gap is set? If you look at the photos docc and see the small adjustable eccentric pin that the later versions have ( as opposed to the earlier fixed roll pin) you adjust the eccentric so that at any point during the entire shift movement between gear selections the gap is 0.035-0.040. To do this you have the mechanism on the bench and operate the shift lever shaft to select a gear position while providing some resistance to the shift wheels so that it moves slowly and doesn't snap into the next gear position and also observe the selector fork as it moves back to the return position after the mechanism movement. Find its closest point in that process and adjust the eccentric to give clearance at that point. On the earlier selectors you dont have the facility to adjust as its a fixed roll pin. Ciao

Why aren't the 2 tank types interchangeable docc? I have 2 of the new type ( 1 second hand and 1 brand new) and a brand new version of the old type, plus the original on my V11 greenie. The new version will fit very easily requiring a small modification to the sub frame mount. I've tried both my new versions on my bike and will use one of these when I fit the Daytona motor. Although I like the old one the new version has much superior and simplified injector plumbing. Speaking of the Daytona engine project, just got my Carrillo rods back from Carrillo after a factory referb, new little end bushes, closed and honed big ends, checked for twist, bend and crack tested for $240us. Good deal for anyone considering. Ciao

Condolences on the engine damage, but lets turn to the lessons learned particularly with regard to oil pressure gauges. With the oil filter lying free in the sump you have been riding around with no oil pressure for quite some time. The filter doesn't' unscrew and drop off in the 30 seconds you rode since you filled up. So either you missed the oil pressure warning light that was on for some time or it wasn't working. I think you mentioned when you tried to restart the LOP light wasn't on when you turned on the ignition'? ( bulb out?) If your going to miss an LOP light then you'll probably miss the gauge that's reading zero as well. As for the information a gauge gives you well I think there's more people worrying about oil pressure readings than anything else on the board. The truth is if the LOP light comes on you will have just as much time to react as a gauge reading zero all of a sudden as would have been the case here. It wouldn't have shown LOP for a while and given you any warning and even if it did for 20 or 30 seconds you probably wouldn't have seen it anyway while concentrating on the road. There's a reason NO mass produced motorcycles are fitted with LOP gauges and thats because they are basically a waste of time and create more concerns than they are worth. Despite what people think an engine wont immediately run it its bearings when the LOP light comes on, it has a lot to do with how the engines is operating at the time, but lets be honest, how much time do you spend or want to spend looking at a gauge or light. Check before every start that the LOP light is on, put a hose clamp on your filter and make sure there isn't 2 gaskets fitted, keep the LOP wiring connectors in good condition, replace the LOP switch when it shows signs of leaking and all will be fine without silly gauges. Ciao

Move the shift mechanism through its travel and adjust to the gap at its closest point. I rechecked my notes and I adjusted mine to 0.035" or 0.9mm its not too critical unless its too tight which will be obvious when you run it through the positions on the bench. 1mm or 0.040" would be acceptable I should think. Ciao Ciao

As far as I know, all V11S are susceptible.. True that, although the 2002 seem over-represented. Maybe we need a poll? Remember around that time there was an issue with pawl arm bosses being incorrectly machined over size and causing the spring to bind. Earlier and later didnt suffer from memory, just a batch. They got around it by making the spring ID larger or you could remove .5mm off the boss. Ciao

Fettling and adjustment as per my post. Pull the cover off and make sure the large and small eccentrics are adjusted correctly, esp the large, its quite sensitive to adjustment. Ciao

Hi, Phil.. do you have a part number for the kit? Yes Chuck, p/n 01 20 16 41. About $120US from memory around 18 month ago Ciao

Nice work Chuck. When you reassemble adjust on the bench the eccentric stop. You will probably find that the trans will under shift in one direction and over shift slightly in the other. Use your hand to keep some load on the selector gears to as you shift and you'll feel it. I adjusted the eccentric until It was a good as it could be and then added a spot of weld to the stop faces and dressed back until there was little or no over shift. I tiny bit of over shift wont hurt but if the adjuster is a long way off in one direction you will get a fair amount of over and under. You'll see it. I still think the stop lever return/centering spring could be a little stiffer and I was contemplating a 1mm wall thickness sleeve locktited over the stop pin to give it a bit more preload. Ciao

If you have ever had a Centauro/Daytona motor apart you wouldn't. Ciao

Yes Chuck, replace both springs. The detent arm spring doesn't usually give much trouble but while you're in there and ordering stuff. Glad it was something so simple. You have the earlier shift plate assy so check the dia of the boss on the shift pawl arm and compare to the ID of the pawl spring and make sure there wont be any binding. I suspect it would have broken by now if its the too big 16mm dia boss, so it should be fine. Ciao PS make sure you get the centering/return spring installed the right way up Chuck, if you dont one of the arms rubs on that crescent shaped land just behind the stop pin in the photo. Thanks, Phil. I have a spare pawl spring in my tool kit, so I'll just install it and keep the other for a spare. Maybe I should paint it red? A tasteful red Chuck Ciao

Yes Chuck, replace both springs. The detent arm spring doesn't usually give much trouble but while you're in there and ordering stuff. Glad it was something so simple. You have the earlier shift plate assy so check the dia of the boss on the shift pawl arm and compare to the ID of the pawl spring and make sure there wont be any binding. I suspect it would have broken by now if its the too big 16mm dia boss, so it should be fine. Ciao PS make sure you get the centering/return spring installed the right way up Chuck, if you dont one of the arms rubs on that crescent shaped land just behind the stop pin in the photo.

Yes not really enough detailed information, but I would be looking at whether the starter didn't disengage after the last start and eventually lunched itself by being back driven from the engine. Don't go straight to the WCS. Ciao

I'm an A and P mechanic but after 45 years of replacing plugs I have the feel for it Torquing isn't a bad thing though if you don't do a lot of it, but unless you're in the habit of leaving plugs loose it wont make any difference to heat transfer. And if you do leave them loose then you're biggest worry will be ruined threads in the plug holes. Ciao

You sure are making a career out of a plug change:) One point, if you read the NGK literature you will find that the plugs come with anti seize plating and they recommend NOT using anti seize grease. Ciao

Nice fixture on the cylinder head but overly complicated. A piece of scrap steel 6mm plate bolted to one of the valve cover bolt holes and a magnetic base/stand with a dial indicator attached to it will do the same thing for about $60. Yes the full stop method you outlined is the best way to find TDC. Just about any cheap dial indicator and magnetic stand you can find on ebay will do. Set to zero valve lash with a feeler gauge and measure the valve timing at 1mm lift. Ciao

It will be in the shift mechanism internally Chuck and without knowing the version of shift mechanism it has its hard to say. Cant se it being a big issue to fix though. Ciao

Wilbers with the lot, compression, high and low speed rebound damping, hydraulic pre-load, external reservoir, custom made for my weight and riding style/conditions. I have used or had experience with std Ohlins, TTX Ohlins, Penske,and just about every other brand of shock at one time or another over the last 40 years and the Wilbers is up there with the Penske and TTX Ohlins for quality and performance. Ciao

Forgot to mention the reverse cones come with DB killers that I never used. With them in they are slightly louder than stock without they are as described in the classifieds. Ciao

Have just listed 2 sets of basically new mufflers in the classified section for any interested. Ciao

Having a clear out, two sets of mufflers here for sale. The reverse cone ones have done 5 or 600 klms on the bike and the Titanium ovals literally up and down the road once to check the sound. So effectively brand new. The Ti mufflers have no markings at all on them and I cant remember what they were but they appear identical to Mistrals. Quality and fit is outstanding so you don't have to worry about that aspect, and they are the best sounding of the 5 types I have had fitted to the bike. A nice deep mellow sound without being too loud. The reverse cone Mistrals are little louder and sharper but still totally road worthy. Similar sound and volume to an old Ducati 900ss bevel drive with Conti's but with less "crack", a little softer. They come with DB killers that quieten them down to a little over stock volume. The reverse cone ones I'm looking for $300US and the Ti $275US. The reverse cone ones usually sell for $625US. Shipping I'll do for $95US for each set. Ciao Update....both mufflers sets now sold.

Well I guess that's their main function. My brake lever one needs to be angled to 45deg, its a bit flat at the moment. These are really very nicely made and quite inexpensive and with a bit of work on the levers themselves you end up with controls that look quite decent. The look of the std levers is a little rough. In the background of the photo of my shift lever you can see my lever arm extension validation temp modification before I went ahead and did the permanent extension. Ciao

I seem to recall that it was about replacing the output shaft belville washer pack that provides shock absorbsion. There may have been another mod as well at the same time, gear selector drive rings seems to also ring a bell. Ciao

If your bike has the additional eccentric adjuster for the shift arm then you will have the later assembly. Look on the outside of the gearbox cover and if it has 2 eccentric adjusters, the standard large one and the second smaller one almost directly above it then you have the later shifter/cover assembly. The extended shift lever arm is also applicable to the later units as well. This is another worthwhile mod, its a rather nice folding toe piece that allows you to adjust the shift lever into a position that keeps it well clear of the frame plate while still giving you the positioning you want for your toe. You can leave off the plate and just fit the folding toe piece if you don't need it. Very nicely made and available from Guzzitech. Cut off your old toe piece file the face flat drill and countersink for the mount bolt and its done. Buy a second one and do the brake lever while your there. Ciao