LowRyter

Thanks Docc, you might have given me a partial solution to my V11's "cough" at low revs. My previous fix didn't work. I've done the basic tune. My latest theory is vapor-lock in the lines at low flow. I purchased some DEI Fire Wrap for the fuel line from Summit racing to add another layer of insulation - just in case. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010477/ I couldn't figure out which line was the supply and which was the return so I wrapped both. One thing I noticed was the crossover was very tight underneath the airbox. I wonder if the line became pinched there after I removed & cleaned the 1/2 cup of oil out of the airbox. So this weekend I've got new chores for the V11. Pull the tank and airbox check & reroute the fuel line, if there's room put some fire wrap between tranny and fuel line at the crossover. I know other's don't have this "cough" because the bike is actually unrideable when hot and 100+ temps with nasty traffic is common in California. I apologize to all for thread-jacking. Mark I think most V11s just have a cough when lugged. If you look at the the Dyno chart that was posted, the torque falls into a hole at about 2k rpm and then goes jumps back up and goes strong. The dyno chart on my bike was identical to the one posted here.

Since I haven't ridden it in the evening for some time, I would bet it was out at the Ozarks. I should ask someone following me if the tail light was on.

better check ...... whew.

update. culprit was chaffed wire for one of the instrument lights.

I don't suppose anyone has found a plastic or nylon sock for it?

little bros............ I bought a camaro, he bought a new one in the same color, then I bought a red 'vette, he bought new red 'vette. He also got an exclusive 6 cyl Beemer after I acquired my bikes...... Oh well, he's the top manager running a walmart in the usa. Gotta love him.

good deal

good deal. a buddy was at Cedar Vale last year and his bike wouldn't run. Rodekill, adjusted the valves and he was good to go.

perhaps..... and thank you.

Chuck, I surrendered to humidity and lack of knowledge on the ignition switch. The bike was rideable and rode it to someone better than me. My fear was breaking the switch and that I would never get it started. Docc, the fuse is a 10 amp. IIRC it's the one to the left of the 5 amp, I believe it's the fuel pump. My second cheat was replacing the 5 amp with a 10 amp. It blew the 10 amp (just like the 30 did previously) and totally killed ALL power (again). DEAD, nada,nothing- Might as well not have a battery. I replaced the 10 amp and it runs like a train. I have no idea why a simple 10 amp fuse would kill it, but it did. Someone might take their fuse out and see. Seems bizarre to me. But Don thinks that this is on the path to the main relay. I dunno. Maybe my bike is squirreled up? I hope that my stupidity gives entertainment here. But, I am very appreciative of all the advice along the way and obviously unafraid of ridicule. I just pray there are no Mr Nevada t-shirts. I'd say if my riding skills are 30% and my mechanical ability is a 5, OK, at least a 3%.

I'm taking it to the shop. I've never locked or put the bike in park. I did it to my EV once when I acquired, it was real chancey. Unlike my Suzuki, the Guzzi action is really stiff. Anyway, I tried but didn't force it on the Greenie. I did find the 4w lamp in the headlight reflector and I found similar a 4v bulb at the auto parts store. The little brass spring is POS. The connectors looked good but the old bulb was so brown that couldn't see the filament. (I assume this is a front parking lamp?) Also sprayed the tail light socket, the bulb had both filaments despite my cheater fuse shinheghan. All looks good but it pops fuses. So I am reluctant to get into the ignition switch and whatever else. The bike runs fine but I have one bad circuit. And BTW- cheating this 5 amp fuse will kill the 10amp fuse on the fuel pump circuit which will kill all power on my bike- DEAD, It must stop the #1 power relay?

Thanks for the info. I am going to start on the light in the headlight bucket. I don't recall seeing it when I installed the LED headlight. It could be anywhere or crushed. I'll look for a resettable fuse, should be a big help.

I've never used park mode. So if it's the ignition switch, this might show it? What is the 4 wt dipped lamp? I didn't notice it when I installed the LED headlight.

First time i didn't use a hose clamp.

You might want to see if the fuel line is primed. These bikes have a tendency to vapor lock and "tank suck" as well. Open the gas cap, make sure the tank is close to full. And then prime it with fuel pump. I would bet you still have air in the fuel lines after it ran out of fuel. Mine did that after I was riding in hot weather I forgot and didn't prime the fuel pump and hit the starter. it would run for a second and die. Then I filled the tank it ran fine.

You're probably right Dave, but I know less about electricity than I do oil pressure. And you can see what a fiasco I made out of that.

OK now to work on the fuse. Started the bike, dropped in a fuse, it sparks before I can seat it, and burns up immediately.

She lives. Now to figure out the fuse

one or the other. this UNI is bigger than the manhole. It was loose. Dropping pan. Might as well put in fresh oil and Bosch filter. even though this has only 2k on it and drk brown.

just drained the oil and opened the manhole. Oil filter is off.

update: took the valve cover off, ran it for a few seconds, no oil. Time to go to the shop.

thanks Chuck....I should've figured that out considering how many valve cover gaskets I've replaced. Duh!

So if I screw out the sending unit and hit the starter, oil should squirt out? If not, shut it off, it has no pressure? Is that the way to troubleshoot?

What makes you think that? Since the oil pressure light came on I have to be concerned that I don't have oil pressure. Since the blown fuse is on a different circuit then it might be unrelated. That's the worst case. I need to know if I have oil pressure. Or it could just be the sender. The alternative is that I have an electrical short, connection or ground issue that is affecting the oil light and the other circuit. First, I need to make sure that I don't damage the engine if in fact I have low oil pressure.

There are two TDC, one for compression stroke where the valves are shut and the other for exhaust stroke where the valves are open. You want the compression stroke, the valves are shut and there is no pressure on the valve springs. If you do the right side then you have to all the way around and back again (start at midnight and go to 3pm). If you do the left side you just go 3/4 was back around (start at midnight and go to 9am). It helps to mark the spinner on the alternator at one of the midnights.