LowRyter

I've used Dunlop Qualifiers mostly on the Sport. They handle well, as good as any (actually better IMO), last about the same (which ain't long) but cost a little less than most of the name brands. The ol' Sport ran through a rear high dollar Road Pilot in about 4k miles. Heck, I usually get 7500 from the Bandit. I'll stick with the Dunlops for now. My advice, talk to your local motorcycle tire guy or ask Mr Google and get the cheapest tire within the range. I doubt it will go fewer miles or handle worse than the expensive alternatives.

Red LeMans absolutely beautiful bike.

I don't know how a 1200 2V Norge compares to the Griso, but there is no way that the Norge I rode has anywhere near the power curve of my V11 Sport. That Norge was tuned like a Beemer, no excitement.

I hope some of you watched the video (above) regarding trail braking. Here's some key points. Trail braking is more practical on the street than on the track. I am not meaning riding on sweepers, really more in everyday driving when making tight turns, intersections and green arrows. What it means is just lightly dragging the brake to the apex of the turn and smoothly transitioning throttle when coming out of the curve. When applying the front brake, as the fork is slightly compressed the wheelbase shortens and the bike is more nimble, in contrast to applying throttle and front end rises, the wheelbase lengthens like a cruiser and the bike gains stability. Most riders are trail braking when they downshift by using engine braking, it's just less controlled and relying on the rear wheel. Not as efficient or as controllable. When I trail brake I do both. On the other hand, if you don't trail brake and coast with the clutch disengaged, then you really aren't in control of your bike with the throttle or brakes. Here's a test. Practice trail braking going around a corner but don't gear down which will minimize engine braking. Then as you brake for the corner, keep light pressure on the brake until you pick up on the throttle. in fact you might have some overlap with braking and throttle. I am not saying to ride like this often but it's just a way to practice trail braking.

those big twins do require a lot of amps to crank that starter.

chicken wire? * *no Finnish content

Got this off Bender. 2003 V11 Sport http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_more_topics_photos_-_moto_guzzi_v11_sport_naked_-2003-.html

I'm off to the mountains next week. First, to Albuquerque and will see the Dead & Co on Weds. Next to Denver and will see Dead & Co in Boulder on Saturday. Pretty crazy.

agree about the valve settings. I mentioned it on WG. It's an easy mistake to set the left side on the exhaust stroke vs compression. It's an easy check and a simple fix.

the red bike? It's homely and heard Scud trashed it out. I'll give you $1000 for it to take it off yer hands before it blows on ya.

jus' depends............ even the time of day.

That's right. The LED that replace the entire lens and bulb.

Oh? meaning, I don't know of a single reason.

The tail lights fine. (knock wood) But now I lost that damn odo stem on Veglia.

I think the wrong bulb might've been key here. Thanks for the info Docc. I couldn't find the reference.

Dime City has the 7in headlight and bucket for $85. But it is 5 1/2in deep. This seems similar to my Sport, is the LeMans that different? https://www.dimecitycycles.com/7-inch-complete-headlight-assembly-chrome.html

my Greenie has 75 rear wheel HP They are Clydesdales, not Shetlands.

just a follow on to an old subject.

Bonzo Bonzo

OK, I the 1057 1157 bulb seems to work fine. The 2057 didn't seat. Not sure which one is OEM spec.

I think there might be another reason why a Griso 11 would run as good or better than a V11 Sport.

Badge, she's purdy. Are you going to the Paonia Rally with it?

So if I got this straight, the new engine has lighter and stronger reciprocal components (pistons, rods & crank), better head flow (and titanium valves), improved induction (fuel management) and cooling and less internal friction and pumping losses (due to dry sump). Now it's rated at 80 hp, not 85. At the crank. Really, it does look like it's going to be a pretty nice bike. But some of us are turned off by all the hype and the attendant delays and usual disappointment. We've been here before

detonation means it's running lean or too much timing. Can't be good unless you throttle past it.

I find that having some adventure on a trip, some rain, snow, hail, food poisoning, etc., makes the best parts of the trip ahhhh.... so memorable.