R.I.P. Mikko Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 9 minutes ago, Vic said: AF1 Racing has the right side for $198. The left side isn't as bad at only $83. Plus S/H. So for the pair around $300. That’s only $85 less then the complete motobits controls... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 My thought was to keep the design and material as affordable as possible. Magnesium would be very light, but maybe costly. 1/4 in cold rolled steel plate would be inexpensive, the left side is simple only needing a small section milled down where it bolts to the pork chop ( to keep it from pivoting), the right side also needs this milled section, plus a round bunt, welded,or brazed at the point where the brake lever attach bolt goes to beef this section up. Steel is heavy,but these brackets are small enough that weight shouldn't be a big deal. To futher keep the cost down,they could be offered in the raw, since everyone has there own color preferences, let the buyer do the final painting/powder coating. My idea is to keep the cost within reason, so that more folks would be willing to try a different foot peg position with out breaking the bank. I don't see why two simple brackets need to cost $300. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.I.P. Mikko Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 Right... I looked into what I thought would be a low buck upgrade and retro fit ml63 calipers on my 550. I found a set of four for super cheap. Then I go to the Mercedes online parts book to order the brackets and they are about $250 EACH. Needless to say I didn’t go for it. manufacturers love to gouge you on parts that are seldom bought. Brake caliper brackets are not a “service item” soooo you’ll pay up the wazoo. I suspect it’s the same formula with these... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 On 8/6/2020 at 5:29 PM, Pressureangle said: For what it's worth, I have about 20 plates left, and intend to keep them available forever. Pete Roper will always get license on any new production runs. Vic suggested that there may be other desirable components looking for manufacture; if so, suggest them and we can discuss demand and costs. Thanks, @Pressureangle for making these Proper P.Roper Plates available! New member @wdietz186 is looking for one to make sure the V11 he is putting back together does not "come from together" in the future . . . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pressureangle Posted December 18, 2020 Author Share Posted December 18, 2020 On 9/28/2019 at 9:52 AM, Pressureangle said: Most of you probably follow the Redux thread, but I wanted to move the pertinent info to the top where it's not buried 7 pages deep. Pete Roper licensed sloppage trays for V11 broad-sump motors, US-made in 304 Stainless Steel .080" thick. $70US, plus USPS medium priority mail box in the US, total $84.35. International orders, $70US plus actual shipping. Please do send me a PM through the site, and I'll send an invoice. This avoids confusion and creates a solid timeline so nobody falls through the cracks. PayPal to pressureangle@gmail.com or check/money order to; Horst Manufacturing 9501 E. Center St. Windham, OH 44288 Bump! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pressureangle Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 Has everyone who ordered a Roper plate received it in good condition? Just making sure nothing fell through the cracks. I have 4 remaining. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Maynard Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 I’ll take one. Good timing, as I’ll be fixing one of the stripped sump bolts if the sun and warmth ever returns to NE Ohio. Just sent you the PayPal. Not to hijack the thread, is there any easy way to check the other sump holes to see if they are near stripping? Besides over torquing them, of course. Thanks Bob Maynard 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emeraldv11 Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Hi, if you screw in a new bolt in and shake it from side to side you should find out if it needs helicoiling 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pressureangle Posted January 21, 2021 Author Share Posted January 21, 2021 Edit; disregard. I left half of them in Ohio. I still have plenty. 21 January 2020. I have 2 plates left. I'll be ordering another 50 shortly- if it takes 2 more years to sell them, that's ok. E. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coppa53 Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 Hi, I have a Roper new plate to install. I recall seeing details / steps on V11lemans site. on the install. Can't find it? Any help on finding it is appreciated. ....... Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 1 hour ago, Coppa53 said: Hi, I have a Roper new plate to install. I recall seeing details / steps on V11lemans site. on the install. Can't find it? Any help on finding it is appreciated. ....... Thanks 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 Nice video. A good thing to do once you have the plate installed is to drop the dipstick in the hole and mark it level with the bottom face of the Roper plate, remove and drill a 1.5mm hole in the dipstick as your new "full" mark. Ciao 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KINDOY2 Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 1 hour ago, Lucky Phil said: Nice video. A good thing to do once you have the plate installed is to drop the dipstick in the hole and mark it level with the bottom face of the Roper plate, remove and drill a 1.5mm hole in the dipstick as your new "full" mark. Ciao Sorry for my brain fade but.. Do you mean mark "it" (the stick ?) when its all the way in and with the oil level with the bottom of the plate or mark the stick when the end of it is level with the bottom of the roper plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 1 minute ago, KINDOY2 said: Sorry for my brain fade but.. Do you mean mark "it" (the stick ?) when its all the way in and with the oil level with the bottom of the plate or mark the stick when the end of it is level with the bottom of the roper plate? Sorry, with the plate installed and before you fit the sump insert the dipstick and mark it level with the plate lower surface then remove the stick and drill a hole. This way you know exactly when the oil level is at the bottom of the plate which is full. Ciao 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KINDOY2 Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 7 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: Sorry, with the plate installed and before you fit the sump insert the dipstick and mark it level with the plate lower surface then remove the stick and drill a hole. This way you know exactly when the oil level is at the bottom of the plate which is full. Ciao Great!..Now I understand..Thanks Phil ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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