All Activity

That has been mentioned a couple of times, and now one more time. I had a look at those on mine, and can only confirm the advice to check them regularly. The "bullet" type connector is one that is inclined to get loose with time, and those ones on the V11 are in a dumb place into the bargain. Whatever else you do, look at them first. I agree with that, in the sense of getting the existing systems in good order, or as good as possible, before you start doing mods that might not address the actual issue. The reservation is, it is possible that the bike might not start every time at the first button push even if everything is in good order. Mine doesn't. However, the "not starting" is not a complete failure to do anything when the button is pushed. That would be a symptom that points to, for instance, the aforementioned bullet connectors (along with the fact that the steering position makes a difference, as already mentioned in other posts). What mine does is the classic "startus interruptus": Sometimes it starts fine, sometimes it just clicks. A few more jabs on the button, and clicks, and then it starts. The position of the steering makes no difference. The problem is that not enough volts get through to the solenoid on the starter. I've measured that on mine, and it is the case. I've done a clean-up on the electrics on the bits that are easy to get to, and the problem got better, but it is still there. The solution is either go through electrics from start to finish and bring every single connector back to as new condition, or install the additional relay as described further up. The plan is to add the additional relay, but I have a couple of other issues that are more urgent. Putting the forks back in when I get them back from the workshop, for instance, and finding out why it runs so badly on a constant throttle.

Learned something in Brooklyn 1978, screw the establishment Cheers Tom.

A member did the refill (in the wrong place) last year w/bad results. The additional start relay will fix an intermittent condition. Yours is doing it when the bars are turned fully in one direction only. This is highly unlikely to fix this. Find out for sure. Turn the bars fully in the direction of the no-start and hold the starter button down . Then rotate the bars in the opposite direction until the starter starts working. There may be bullet connectors that are not making good connection . find & repair . You can use crimp connections to fix this because you need to have a perfect connection instead of a quick connect coupling. The extra relay is a good idea but get your bike to where it starts every time FIRST !

Sounds like what Guzzi owners refer to as Startus Innterus @docc beat me to the punch, regarding Roy's diagram Regarding the Bosch relay, according to the spec I found its rated at 20A I'm not sure about the relay layout on the V11 but the Power Relay operating fuel pump, injectors and coil has to feed a large load If it was me unless there is something wrong with the Chinese one I'd leave it, as it's a larger rating (if it's to be believed of course)

Here is one by @Kiwi_Roy courtesy os @Weegie's DropBox: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/no8adkie1sl6frnc2qmm8/ALzrUXsngCqMRtfMR1cXedE?dl=0&e=1&preview=Startus+Innteruptus.jpg&rlkey=8x5byzd4ux3107610i22ig5v6&st=3xbx7rbu Yet, because your steering position affects starting, do not overlook the faulty connections of the clutch switch at the nefarious "bullet connectors" at the left side of the frame spine beneath the tank.

Still check in here frequently and if I can contribute I usually try. Had it out yesterday to get its annual roadworthy test and it still puts a smile on my ugly mug. A little worried that the MOT tester was calling me Mad Max though

I have found this relay in Norway, I think it can replace the Song Chuan, what do you think? - BOSCH 0 986 AH0 304 Also, Do you have any simple diagram that explains the re-routing?

Thats an amazing guidance bud, thank you very much for all this explanations!

Thank you very much. I see its pretty clear actually!

Is a dipstick available? I heard they slip when the level is too low.

That was a funny response ! No kiddin' , a member did a trans oil change and installed the oil in the flywheel housing ! Back when the Saab 900S with a m.t. was around , oil change places would drain the gearbox and add 5qts of oil and the car would get about 5-10 miles down the road and then TROUBLE !

Yeah, I couldn’t remember offhand if John was on here or not. Of course he is!

We do. Wedgie. Phil

Surprised the hammer doesn't get a little steamed.....

Those clips are pretty irrelevant. Don't know if that's Roy Buchanan's really family but that would certainly be a different side of the man. Most times he can be a real gunslinger. If your not familiar with Roy watch something like Roy Buchanan live form Austin, TX. Eva Cassidy go watch her cover of Somewhere Over the Rainbow or Song Bird.

I feel the urge to clarify that If it is "the same" in the sense that the brakes stay "pumped up" and still have a good feel after standing for some minutes with no wheel rotation, the problem is probably the disk or bearings or something at that end. Something that pushes the pads back away from the disk when the wheel rotates, causing them to need to be "pumped back up" when the brakes are applied. If it "the same" in the sense that the brakes need "pumping up" again after standing for some time, there is probably air in the system that needs bleeding out.

At this point, it seems a lot cheaper to travel to Europe to purchase your gear, VAT free, and import duty free. Some of the bakery stuff that is made in France cost 50 USD here, and 13 EUR there; taking into account that 50 USD here is without VAT and 13 EUR includes VAT in Eur... These are cast for a pastry named Canelé. I need at least 50 of them....

Exactly what I said in my post;

And you waited all that time to tell me? Each time I change the gearbox oil, my clutch slips... now I understand why!!!

Mine broke at 30k miles. Since you are in Norway, I suppose 13 k is 13,000 km. 30k miles is about 50k km. I would wait. What you need to do, is to connect the crank signal through an additional relay, and route the solenoid direct from the battery using that relay. This is how you take care of the no crank issue once forever. The starter motor main power is coming direct from the battery. However, the Solenoid power is routed through the ignition switch. Over time, that signal does not bring enough amps to get the Solenoid to close the circuit to power the starter motor. After purchasing my Le Mans, I experienced the "no crank" almost right from the beginning. It was a 2004 model with about 9000 miles on the non-working odometer. The bike would seem to crank normally, but at times, pushing the start button would yield nothing. After a few moves, then it would crank again. Just modify the start wiring. At present, your start wire is connected directly from the ignition switch to the solenoid via the start button. Install another relay, connect that start wire to that relay, and the plus solenoid directly to the battery via the relay. Voilà! you will never have the no crank issue again. Here's a photo of the additional relay on my Le Mans so six instead of five... Here's the video of what happens when you have the non modified circuit: Here's another issue that you need to check for: the nipple gets loose and starts to leak:! This is the pics of my broken pawl spring in the gear box:

Whatever you think doesn't matter . The Tariffmeister is in charge of that whim !

BTW , do not put the gear oil in where the rubber plug id=s in the side of the transmission. You will fill up yhe clutch housing and cause problems !

You can test that thought w/the bike sitting still. Pump the rear brake w/your foot three Xs and see if it gets better every stroke. If it does , let it sit for 60 seconds . If it is the same , you MIGHT have a warped rotor . Get the rear wheel off the ground and rotate the wheel . If the rotor is warped you will see the lateral movement and see the warp in the rotor. Also , try moving the wheel to see if there is lateral movement there . There should be NONE .