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Back to work...Throttle body day Thanks to Lucky Phil's thread (insert link) this is easy enough for anyone to do at home. I didn't think to take a lot of pictures before starting, but the bottom of the throttle shafts were DEEP with what looked like the bottom of a '74 Ford 460 oil pan. My throttle blade screws weren't peened or center punched, they had simply been hit once with a chisel, looked like; turning them out was easy enough probably could have without damaging anything. I used a set of duckbill pliers to squeeze the end together a bit while not flattening the threads. Came out surprisingly easy though probably won't go in as well. Certainly going to touch them with loctite going back, may try new screws if the hardware has the correct pitch in brass. Went to the very back of the 'special tools' drawer and drug out a 5/16" valve guide driver (8mm) a perfect fit for the bushings. Easy to feel when centered, a couple medium whacks and when the seal shoulder stopped, stuck the old bushing on to drive the new ones home to the shoulder. Easy peasy. The old seals were so dead they actually fell out as I pulled the shaft. Finish tomorrow, everything soaking in Boraxo/dishsoap to soften the road armor covering the linkage arms and TB bodies. Upside-damn-down again, WTF Turn your head lol

I believe it should. If I remember correctly, you should be able to check whether the light is working by pulling the light blue wire off the regulator and connecting it to battery minus. 12.8 at Idle is, as far as I know, probably okay. If it never gets above 13.6V, that's a bit low. Before you decide that the regulator is not ok, go through the wiring loom and check and clean all of the connections that have even remotely something to do with the charging system.

My HK Monaro GTS 186S. It was a rust-bucket, actually, and ended up getting a canary*. I was a student, and had no money, so it went. My Z900, which I sold when I went to Germany. OK, I'm on the Guzzi trip now, but that was a sweet bike. * for the foreigners: there is no regular roadworthiness test in Victoria, Australia. Instead, the police can pull you over, and make an assesment of the vehicle. If they are of the opinion that something is not good, they can order a roadworthiness test. Your are then obliged to front up at the the official departement, and have the test done. If you don't, and keep using the vehicle, your're in deep shit. When I was still there, when that happened, they put a sticker in the windshield, about 10" by 10" and bright yellow. Canary...

I read ALL of that already and then some LOL... just 2 questions: is my regulator rectifier borderline? should my charging light come on when the bike is NOT running, just the ignition switch to ON?

Your "battery tender" probably doesn't speak Hawker Odyssey fluently. A Hawker (EnerSys) approved charger is the ticket. Otherwise, 1000 rpm is rather low for a V11, IMO. Plus, anything above 2500 rpm or so should see 13.8-14.2 volts. Stand by for TMI . . .

i have a 2004 V11 cafe sport Odessey PC545 battery while bike is running at 1000 rpm idle 12.7- 12.8 volts when bike is at 2000 rpm and above 13.6 volts Went on a 40 mile ride with one stop... bike started no issue. when i got home i plugged my battery tender harness in and within 60 seconds the green light started flashing telling me battery was at least 90% charged, what voltages should i be reading at the battery at idle and at 2000 rpm and above? is my voltage regulator reading a bit low? Charging light NEVER comes on... is that normal? thnx

ETX18F.

what model Earth X battery did you get?

I've never had real time sellers remorse. Once the decision is made to sell the vehicle it's dead to me. Years later, well that's another story. Phil

I went with an EarthX LiFePO4 battery, as it is assembled/tested in Colorado, USA and Earth-X has an FAA (aircraft) rating on many of their batteries. 2-year replacement warranty, although life span is expected to be considerably longer. It is tiny (150mm L x 86mm W x 93mm H) and light (1 Kg) and zero problems spinning the V11 over. It replaces a 5-year old Yuasa AGM. Was 229 USD. I have it on a programmable LiFePO4 charger.

looks to be!

@gstallons Intended to read "DOT 3 and DOT 4 . . . ?" [ If so, I'll make the edit and delete this inquiry post . . . ]

Fuel for the fire. When the time comes for maintenance on your pad replacement. (In case you didn't know) Wagner and others sell a DOT 5.1 brake fluid . It works in all systems that have DOT 3 and DOT fluid applications. This is also NOT compatible w/DOT 5. Nothing is and don't forget it. The min. wet boiling point is 356f / 180c temp. so you should be good and not experience bad things riding over your head !

Also not the hybrid, but a straight Anti-Gravity Re-start lithium battery. I have them in my R1200R and my F800GS; another in a V11. There's a disconcerting lack of push on a rather cold morning (never not started up, but you've got to wake up the battery a bit before it really wants to crank) -- not that that'll be a problem for you in Georgia.

Aesthetically and dimensionally, it may matter but electrically it doesn't, as long as it accommodates a 2-wire stator. My rec/reg is suspect, I'll replace it with a Shindengen if I can fit it in the space.

Never the hybrid, but my 1100 Sport did like the straight lithium battery. Motus. I think I've seen you on the Cherohola Parkway during the South'n Spine Raids twice.

i have a Motus MST and needed to replace my battery. One of the riders in the Facebook group recommended the Motobatt hybrid lithium/AGM MHTX20... since the stock one always seemed to labor a bit when started. The benefit of the lithium CCA but can be charged with any smart battery charger like an AGM... holy crap does it light off the bike fast. looking into the one that will work in a guzzi V11. Currently using an Odyssey PC545. Has anyone tried a hybrid like this?

Of course what it doesn't tell me is what brand/model etc of rectifier is on the '02 V11 Sport.

When the buyer of Rosie the Rosso left our place I was already having seller's remorse and those titaniums sounded awesome. They are the best..

No longer available. Only hope is second hand or some NOS that may crop up. Patience may reward. Phil

Send him a link to this topic. The forum is, after all, readable even if one is not logged in. Who knows, maybe he would be interested in the suggestions. As far as how hard it is to get good audio in a difficult environment goes, yes, I know. All too well. And that is the point: the audio on those videos is basically really quite good. If it were really crappy, I probably wouldn't bother to comment. It's good, but is missing the final polish. It's just some of the edits and the occasional wind noise.

Well. I prefer a street tire on the street and a knobby off-road. 80/20 Dunlop Trailmax Mission are a concession to not telling my Garmin to avoid dirt roads 50/50 Dunlop Trailmax Raid are better on the street and x10 on dirt but promised /10 miles per tire I prefer the right bike for the ride with the best tires. Generally, ADV riders fall into the ^ discussed category.

Heard the other day at the local cafe where the ADV riders hang out: Do you prefer 60/40's or 70/30's? Oh man, I much prefer 80/20's!