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Frank

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About Frank

  • Rank
    Guzzisti
  • Birthday 08/11/1949

Previous Fields

  • My bikes
    1999 Suzuki TL1000S, 2002 Kawasaki 1500 Drifter, 1975 Triumph trident T160, 2005 HD Nighttrain Softail, 2009 VRod Muscle, 2014 Honda Valkyrie, MG Rossa Corsa leMans
  • Location
    Concord, NC, USA

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Motorcycles and guitars

Recent Profile Visitors

91 profile views
  1. I reviewed your video before I installed my Roper plate and couldn't tell if you used two flange gaskets (01 00 36 50), - one on both sides of the Roper plate. Also, when I installed my plate last week, I noticed that the screws that held the flange to the crankcase had a coating on them that I could peel off. When I looked further, 8 of these cap screws thread into crankcase holes that are not blind but open to the outside. In other words, if these Allen screws are not sealed, you could have oil running up the threads to the outside of the engine on both sides. I used Permatex's Indian heal shellac on mine. Frank
  2. Pressureangle, I've just sent an order with PayPal. Are there instructions included? What gaskets -seals are needed? Thanks. Frank
  3. Frank

    Frank

  4. A few years ago, my Suzuki TL1000 S developed the same problem. I hadn't done anything to the brake system beforehand - it just appeared one day. Brakes were tight and normal at a stop but almost immediately the lever went to the grip when moving. I could pump the brake lever up some but it immediately goes soft again. At a stop, everything is okay. I bled the system numerous times but the problem persisted. I've been tinkering with motorcycles for over 40 years and I was really stumped. The bike was basically unrideable because of this problem. One day when testing it in my neighborhood, I watched the brake discs as I was moving slow and noticed they were warped. I replaced them and the problem went away. Maybe this will help. Frank
  5. Hi Tim: I've sent a Paypal payment for 2 springs. Frank Long
  6. I'm interested in 2. Won't there be a formal method for payment and receiving address? Frank
  7. I wouldn't still have my V11 Rossa Corsa if I didn't have these mounted: http://motratech.com/Motratech/Welcome.html I also have the setup from RPM cycles that moved the clip ons up and back. Frank
  8. Thanks to all. I was finally able to download it on my main computer (Windows 10) by turning off McAfee - however, it appears you can't turn off McAfee through their settings application. I had to go to Windows System Configuration to turn it off. I was then able to download it. However, it wouldn't execute - ? because parts of McAfee are still active? Anyway, I copied it to my garage computer where I do my motorcycle work - an old laptop with Windows XP -and it works!! Frank
  9. Hi Meinolf I have downloaded that .zip probably 15 times and it never opens and when I extract it, there is only a statement stating that the file is empty. I had no problems with any of the other files. Is anybody willing to email me their executable for the IAW15x reader? Thanks. Frank
  10. Hi all: I've been following this thread recently and have gotten GuzziDiag programs downloaded to use on my LeMans Rossa Corsa with an IAW 15M.C7 MY 2002 ecu. I've gotten the cables and have successfully communicated with the ecu. However, the IAW15x reader that I downloaded is an empty file. Is this because of my computer or has the file been removed from the website.? I would like to have the reader if available. The IAW15x EEPROM reader works but it copies the files in a .eep extension and TunePro needs a .bin file. So, I'm unable to download my map to compare it. \ As an FYI: I recently bought a IAW15M .C5 V11 Lemans Sport ecu from Ebay and it works on my Rossa Corsa. I appreciate any help. Frank
  11. I'm so impressed with mine that I'm willing to buy a set of spares incase I get a used V11 in the future. They work perfectly. Frank Long
  12. Guys, This is what I use. I got a long, 16 inch or so grease gun extension hose and bought the following from McMaster-Carr: 1090K47 . I did have to drill out the hole on this item to fit the grease nipple but it works great. http://www.mcmaster.com/
  13. If you want to know how to change tires yourself and have a workbench and the tools to remove the wheels from the bike, the following links will help. http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html will help you make the best fixture for holding tires at virtually no cost. This is what I use and it is hands down better that laying the wheel/tire over two 4x4's and using your knees and tire irons to r/r and tire. I don't use this method for wire wheels though - I still place them on the 4x4's and now have knee protectors to help with the job. http://www.tireqwik.com/tireqwik/index.html This site has the long tire irons you'll need - short ones like I used for years just don't work nearly as well as these long ones. Three irons are needed. You also might want a bead breaker. I've seen car jacks placed on the tire and then used to lift the car and the bead still won't break. You'll need something to break them and a bead breaker of some sort is a necessity. Finally, this site's balancing stand is the best I've seen. The bearings that support the stock wheel and axle are so friction-free that a well spun tire will continue to rotate for 3 minutes or more. This tool is really amazing and clearly works well. http://www.tireslick.com/ When I first changed tires 30 years ago, I didn't know one needed a lubricant. The second time I changed a tire -using dishwashing liquid as a lubricant, the tires almost jumped on the rims. That was in '75 when my bike had wire wheels and tubes. Tubeless tires on cast wheels are on tight and need a lubricant. This is the best I've found. It dries away to nothing - really, any that gets on your hand will eventually evaporate to with no residual. It's very slippery. I apply it with a cheap paint brush. Although I didn't mention it in my first sentence, an air compressor is very handy since you'll need to inflate the tire to seat the bead. This lubricant dries fairly quickly so get them seated quickly. http://www.kowatools.com/cgi-bin/miva?Merc...ry_Code=REMOVAL To better protect cast wheels, I use 6 or more of these around my rims and the risk of scratching the rims approaches zero. I don't use these on chromed steel steel wheels. The tire is always removed and replaced from one side of the wheel, so I always remove the brake disk on that side. I have 6 road bikes and have changed the tires on all of them in the last two years. The above items work well. If I do get scratches, they are small and the drug store generally has a color of fingernail polish for touchup. Frank
  14. Fernando, I have the same winter wear as you listed and my battery died as well in a couple of hundred miles. It was easy to push start however. I plan next season to pull the headlight fuse since I would be riding only during the day. This apparently doesn't kill the pilot light located in the headlight so you still have a light on while riding. (I ride my '75 Triumph Trident like this 100% of its daytime riding and have never been stopped in over twenty years). fsrank
  15. Hi Rich, I had a revelation about 2 weeks ago. I was looking through Eastwood's catalogue and saw information on powdercoating. There is a powder called anodized red and an example of an old Triumph primary cover powder coated wih a transluscent coating. I believe the valve covers and hamcans are powdercoated over aluminum. Frank
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