Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by footgoose

  1. probably because I can't have it ... but.. I want it
  2. ..... and the process has begun! My money's on Dec. 24th. Nice bike VtStorm. Black is rare and beautiful
  3. To me, this is the only way to actually increase the amount of flow into the airbox while still using snorkels of some kind. The inlets without the rubbers are 40mm and appears to stay relatively the same into the lid tho it does oval out some. The next step up would be scud's holes in the sides or top, which is what the dirt bike tuners do sometimes. If that isn't enough take off the lid and clamp the filter down as suggested. I have ridden in rain hard enough to spray the intake with water if I'd had the lid off. I run it with the lid on and no goofy rubber tips. The stock filter is replaced with a BMC (more or less a K&N) and free flowing exhaust. She's really happy.
  4. I had similar thoughts when thinking about bell-mouthing my lid inlets. The air gets scrunched back down as it goes into the lid a few inches back. So is there any advantage to opening these up?
  5. If the stock flanges don't work either, then the weld is just a little sloppy. Find the high spots and grind 'em off. The stainless weld will polish up like chrome if it bothers you. (surely those are stainless?) Nice pipes and flanges btw.
  6. I've been getting focus back to my 2001 DR650. It's gone through some changes over the years (and so have I) and it ended up in a configuration that was geared and styled for the street and as things change I eventually lost interest in it. Easy to do when you own several bikes. These past weeks have had me putting it all back to 'normal', a stock DR, from which I have begun the 'off road' enhancement. I was never happy with the stock BST (diaphragm) carb, and had done the recommended jetting, and air box mod, and muffler swap, and the header weld grind. Better but still not right. Hoping to end my disappointment I bought a Mikuni TM40 pumper carb and have completed the install and have ridden it about 100 mi. All the things that annoyed me about how the stock bike ran are gone. Anyway... more of that later..... I found a great thread DR650 owners (or any adv owner) should read. An overland traveler has over the years set up 3 DR's and reveals an enormous amount of info about the bikes, accessories, mods, suppliers, updates, and gear. He's traveled the world and been posting since 2015, though it's a pretty quick read. No real travel details, just bike set up. Interesting stuff whatever adv bike you might have for serious nasty road trips. https://advrider.com/f/threads/building-my-ideal-dr650-overlander-bike-build-3.1109914/ check out his facebook page as well. https://www.facebook.com/clinton.logan
  7. Did you remove this? were the crank bolts snug?
  8. At least ya'll have Max Rockatanski, all we have is Buffalo Horn Guy and I'd trade him for Milo in a second.
  9. Brilliant. I'm useless with electrics yet this makes sense. I don't have the hiccup but I'll have a look anyway.
  10. what did they replace it with?
  11. also consider a clean and polish, like this one. I did mine very close to this and by hand, flitz metal polish, 3m pad, and then cloth. Took a few hours and it will return to tarnish after awhile, but once done it's easier to keep up with. If you use a buffing wheel it's even better
  12. Great pics Tom. Looks like Porsche Day at the Gap. And Grom day as well the old church shot in b&w is nice!
  13. close to original as possible for my taste. 2037, 2042, or dark with 2072. tough decision
  14. If I'd had MPH that close they would have done my clutch for sure
  15. After I gave you information earlier that very well may be incorrect I did some research, at least the little I could find that I have some confidence in. I don't like giving out bad information and the aluminum flywheel saga has haunted these pages since I've been here. In searching various parts books it shows that p/n's are consistent for Tenni, Scura, and RM for the flywheel and all the clutch parts. The fact that all the p/n's line up means the flywheels were at least interchangeable. That leaves the 'two sources of manufacture' theory. So Guzzi built the first 'batch' maybe in house, for installation on their first 'special', the lovely RM. Then at some point they presumably outsourced the next batch to cover the next 2 specials, and these are the bad ones. This seems to be what people are saying and could explain high mileage RM's with no clutch problems. So the next question would be how many "good" flywheels did they make? Enough for the entire RM run? If so then some of the first Tenni/Scura out there got a good flywheel. If not enough then there's a few RM's out there with the bad flywheel. If there's any more info out there that might wrap this story up with a definitive answer I don't know where to look. Maybe someone else can add to this.
  16. So.. there are two different flywheels for the single plate clutch setup offered in '01-'02? This is news to me. I'm no authority and was just going by what I've learned on this forum. It does make me wonder why I swapped out my clutch/flywheel when I could have replaced the flywheel with one for an '01 RM. So dbarb3, kindly disregard my input. With my apologies.
  17. Gosh, ... that's a tough question. Not that many shops about that would know the particulars. I was quoted 2300 4 years ago but it was from a dealer I did not trust. The parts for a RAM replacement will be around 600. The parts for the std dual plate will run from 400 used to ?$?$? new. It's a labor intensive job as the tranny OR the motor has to be pulled to do it. If you're just looking for a number to make an offer on a bike you might buy, IMO give yourself at least 1500-2000 'BUT' figure in that you know someone qualified to do it. That said, I did my own swap for only the cost of the clutch, and I'm not exactly a technician, just an extreme hobbyist with the good fortune of having this forum as a reference. It was a job I was scared to death to do but after it was done "that wasn't so bad". Bottom line... an oem single plate clutch will want replacing.
  18. Welcome Chris. To be honest the thing is growing on me. Especially the green one. If I thought it perfection I still would have no use for it. I'm just past that type/size/class/sort of machine, but they aren't building their new line for me are they. I'm circling the drain as a demographic. It certainly looks better than several that came out post 2005 (won't mention names). Guzzisti are gonna bitch about anything new from Guzzi. That's what we do. They must know this. They're building for the future, as they should. All that said, the motor is very interesting. They have my attention and should they come up with a chassis that makes me feel the way I did when I first saw the Tenni.... who knows?
  19. so if it is running the original single plate clutch, it is something to consider. It should be replaced imo before too many miles. The aluminum flywheel with those models is prone to cracking and maybe flying to bits causing considerable damage. Many have been replaced with RAM single plate with steel flywheel or the standard dual plate set up. Both work well. I chose the RAM.
  20. We/you need a bit more info because it could have the original (bad) flywheel OR it could be one that was replaced by an aftermarket single plate.
  21. Not Ballabio Tom, but the Rosso Mandello 2001 is included with the Tenni and Scura
  22. A little deeper dive in to ACF50 for those interested. Several mentions of the benefit to electrical bits. One shot shows them filling connector plugs. Is this an alternative to DeOxit?
  • Create New...