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Exactly. The Tenni was the first V11 I'd ever seen. I didn't even have to ride it. That said, any temptation regarding a motorcycle should be acted on.

@motortouring I understand... When I was doing the continental circus Grand-Prix in the 70's, we had a guy from the motoclub on an MZ 250 who literally carried every single tools required to take an engine apart on the road. Including bolt and nuts and spare chain links and every bells ans whistles for just above everything contact points and carburators. His only interest was to save broken down bikes on the road. An early version of the road assistance I guess. His nick name was "savior". You could call him any time of day or night, and he would come to the rescue.

IF this shifter assy. is on the bike and is working condition, move the shift lever up and down and verify the foot lever and the lever inside the frame have no slack and this is tight . Morse = ? are you referring to the splines ? These 0-rings are nothing more than dust shields to keep out "bad stuff" and the wave washer or spring keeps the side (in & out) motion to a minimum . IDK how thick this frame tube is where the shift shaft goes through. I drilled / tapped the shift lever (not the frame) on the red frame for a grease fitting to keep the shift lever happy. You will have to see what you have to work with and decide if you can do this .

The clamp set-up Phil has looks pretty good . i use a conventional high pressure fuel injection hose clamp that covers the entire circumference of the hose and doesn't let the worm gear "threads" dig into the hose . Also buy a good (long) length of fuel injection hose. It will give pressure rating on the length of hose. Gates is the best , NAPA , then you need to be careful. Anyone else on brand recommendation ? This fuel line on the bike is approximately 20-25 yrs old . Remember this having the tank off. Also , when you have anything off under the tank , make sure nothing is going to touch , rub or damage ANYTHING else when you are going back together. Also , I use a small amount of Sil-Glide when assembling hoses to make them easy to go together and come apart. The two vents under the tank use a tee to make one hose to vent down & out of the way .

On the subject of hose clamps these are the best. Re useable and the special tool isn't required. Neat, compact, simple and reliable. I hate screw clamps on small hoses. They look like shite. 5/16 EFI hose needs the "purple banded" Norma Cobra clamps. You can buy them at many places or on line. https://www.irrigationworks.com.au/hose-clamps

I could have my "right and left" mixed up looking upward at your under-tank image. One is the tank vent and one is the overflow. Both could be combined to atmosphere with a single exit below the gearbox.

Std bush. Buy them anywhere for far less. https://www.sp-spareparts.com/en/p/egb-1615-e40-b-ina?srsltid=AfmBOopEQweX5noDan8IK06-n8jMwp2x23nsWgj79duzIrKvL2X86Efe Phil

If 12 keeps coming off 10 the lever arm it's not related to the missing shift lever bush. More likely an issue with the lever or the arm itself. Spline condition or clamping action etc. The spring shown in the image isn't std I don't believe and the only measurement for the bush worth having is from an unused bush. You might just have to measure the ID of the frame support for the shift lever and the OD of the shift lever shaft itself and make or source your own bush if you can't buy an oem one. Old bike engineering.

If it is a spring there, take it of. Just a washer. Probably hard to take picture from underneath, to see whats missing. Stainless pipe in correct dim shoud'nt be to hard to find. The lever shoud be sitting fine in the frame bracket, #17 is just taking up the play. Just my thoughts. Cheers Tom.

After having my 2001 Sport languishing on the stand for way too long, I finally have the whole rear end put back together with new uni joints. There were some little roadblocks along the way with the new crosses because they were not exactly the same as the old ones, but I worked it out and it should be history now. I will explain in more detail in another post. So I was anxious to give it a road test and while it was still on the stand I figured I would fire it up. It hasn't been running in a couple years but I had last drained all the fuel and replaced it with non-e and it has been run through the system. It started up pretty quickly and as it was idling I noticed a gas was dripping out onto the stand, a pretty good amount. Shut it down immediately and cleaned it up. This was not good. Turned the key on to start the pump and saw drips again, so that was enough of that. I couldn't see where it was leaking from but it seemed higher up under the tank. Today I removed the tank and looked closely at everything. I removed the tube from the left side fuel solenoid valve (some diagrams call this a fuel cock?) that connects to the inlet side of the fuel pump. I think it could have been leaking there because of the hose condition but not sure since this would be the suction side. The hose ends were not the most pliable and seemed dried out a bit. The male barb coming out of the rear of the pump had some corrosion and pitting which didn't look great. You can see that in the close up. So I am still not sure of the cause. I will replace tubing. A few questions... - The hose that runs around the top of the spine is squished. That doesn't look too good. Right? Is that from tank deformation? - The small rubber hose to the left of the pump that is not landed looks like the remnants of an evap system that was removed. That hose daylight under the engine. That can go bye bye, right? - When I was trying to remove the hose from the fuel solenoid valve, I noticed it starting to move. After taking off the tank, I unscrewed it all the way and noticed there was no gasket. Is that just relying on compression to seal? - The tank underside has two hose barbs coming out. One has a tube connected to the old check valve that I assume was part of the evap system. The other bard is open and not connected to anything. I don't have a clue if that is correct. Doesn't seem that way. - Lastly, the fuel filter seems to be a bmw unit, so I assume it was changed at some point. The tubing is Gates. Worm drive hose clamps are used throughout. There were not on the bike from the factory, right?

Have u tried MG,Harper’s or AF1 to see if they have any kicking around?

Ha! Squiz - Aussie slang for ‘take a quick look’!! Thought that may elicit a query or two….!

I would get prices and availability on these two parts. If these are a crazy #s , I would grind a gap in the clamping area and tighten it down to verify it will hold and go back together . You can (after you get finished) drill and pin it w/a roll pin to keep it from slipping .

Sorry for the franglais. I am trying to point at the claw of the gear lever, that you tight up to clamp down on the shift lever spline. In French the two sides of a vice grip are called the morses.... ignore please, I thought I was speaking english.

I found this supplier in Virginia: each o'ring is 0.05$ I still need to ascertain that this is the correct size. They seem to have all the o'ring in metric sizes, so it maybe worth keeping the supplier handy. https://www.oringsandmore.com/metric-buna-o-rings-17-8-x-1-8mm-minimum-20-pcs/

Mine was a "mail order" bike. I knew I was gonna love it. I can't even remember how I located it ?

Yes docc, had a quick squiz at this battery tray drop. Thanks… What a nifty idea….but I will try move the battery as quite small in comparison to the new rubber tray I purchased. I do have some wiggle room….

I found a gear shifter lever for sale on eBay, and it seems to have an identical spring washer as on mine. So perhaps this is what is referenced as item #15. I found both missing items available from AF1racing.com. 1 o'ring for 4.04 USD!!! I am going to check if the Stein Dinse dimension is a match ID=17.8mm and CS=1.8mm, and order a bag from Parker.

Thanks again docc, yes, followed your earlier link to the American Digikey webshop (which had already converted prices to Aussie dollars…!) and bought the Picker relays you recommended, plus a few other electrical bits… Here is (to me anyway) the fun part…..while navigating this purchase…before I could get to the payment section…I had to answer an extra set of questions about who I am, my usage of the parts, am I going to on-sell them etc… I thought this must be all part of the USA/China superpower rivalry with the USA being cautious around exporting its technology/sanctions and the like…. The parts arrived swiftly. But to my complete surprise….everything I purchased is made in China!! Sorry if I am off topic but thought humorous in the current volatile climate….regards, tennitragic!

Yep, I think you're right on that. Looks like the BMW fuel filter is shorter than the stock one, so they just pulled the hose to the nipple to fit it on. It will be new and longer. New filter going in too.

McMaster-Carr?

Moving the pump to the top of the frame was, IMCO, a factory effort to address "vapor lock" reports. At this juncture, I believe the pump is better mounted to the left side of the frame, groomed forward with the petcock-to-pump fuel line shielded and as short as possible to keep it away from the head fins. With the fuel filter mounted top-side on the SpineFrame, the fuel line from the pump to the filter can be lengthened to mitigate that pinch.

On the valve clearance,: Yes, it is a little thing to do in the morning with the cold engine and I only do this after I get annoyed by irregular ticking of the pushrods, it is definitely not a daily routine. And the other part: I used to organize trips for the Guzzi Club overhere and it is not that I had all of this in my bags, but we usually had this as a group. The ignition coil helped people back on the road again, just like a spare fuel pump that some one saved from an old Subaru (it worked fine on a EV or Cali 1100ie) and inner tubes and tyre spoons. . It is actually a kind of anekdote. One of us started to run on one cylinder. We removed the side panel of this Tonti Guzzi and one ignition coil was much warmer than the other. Well, you can imagine the guy thought this would be the end of the trip for him, but down in my bag I had this spare ignition coil. Ten minutes later we were going again.

The description in the Parts Catalogue sometimes specifies dimensions, especially for items like that washer. What are the Moto Guzzi part numbers of the two items?

Silly question here. We're all "converted". The V11 Models have various issues, mostly minor. You can find very extensive information on all of them here. It is possible to iron them all out. Go for a ride on it. You'll either love it immediately, or not. If you don't love it, don't buy it. If you do, buy it. It is really as simple as that. My V11 Le Mans has a number of problems, all solvable. My problem is finding the time to get onto them. Even so, every time I ride it, I come home with a smile on my face.

Docs = The Silver Cyborg

Your (emotion) expression will be the same as Jaap's

Still amazed by this bike, after 20 + years. Here picking it up in New Orleans in 2004 on my 50th birthday, an incredible gift from my wonderful wife. The next year Hurricane Katrina would wash this shop away! The Rosso still runs strong....I compare it to my other Guzzi, a 2022 V85 Guardia d Onore, and it has about 100% more Guzzi soul. Yes, both the bike and the wife are keepers for life. Andy

I just put a Wix in the Greenie. OReiily's even had Moto Guzzi in the cross ref on their computer.