Leaderboard

Mighty fine day to have a retired fellow's schedule.

Well I do 99% of my www activity from an iPad - no right click available, lol! I will continue to troubleshoot and report back. Crap, glad I have my Quota to ride while the much more fun V11S is under repair. It's a beautiful time to ride here in Colorado.

It is from Ford service information= KOEO or KOER. Key on Engine Off or Key On Engine Running

OK well, I finally got a chance to sit down with the computer. First I'd like to say hats off to Doc For everything that he does.(BIG hug My friend} Gus and I had a fantastic time this year At the SSR. It was great to see and talk to everyone that showed up Including Kevin, A fellow Michigander Who Rode his O2 V11 Le Mans All the way down.(Kudos) Gus and I trailered ours. Because it's just too much saddle time And so Few days. My older son Josh, came up from Atlanta And met us at the lodge On Friday, early Afternoon. We all spent the rest of the day and evening. Behind Hardy 's.at the. large field, Where we flew RC gliders. Josh. also spent Friday night, Which gave us a chance to mingle in the garage, and then at the pavilion, were everyone all told stories and shot the breeze. Gus and I managed to ride 180 miles on Saturday, even though it was a little damp at the higher elevations Up in the Appalachian Mountains. We ended up with a cruise through the dragon's tail and stopped a few time for some pics, which I'll try to post. All in all it was a great time with friends and fellow riders And already looking forward to next year. Everyone stay healthy and ride safe! SKIP

10mm bolt has an 8mm allen socket, that's likely the disconnect.

No, I would like to but it's not so. This is my first MCGTT, and my BMW Adventure needs to return to it's home in El Paso so I'm taking the opportunity to kill a few birds with one stone. And of course, the GSA carries everything for self-sufficiency. I plan to tent camp when possible. Maybe I'll ride out next September and ride you up to Tellico. I need some long days.

The 26v reading at the battery earlier in this thread was not repeatable on a number of subsequent readings, which were all at 12.3v at idle and revved to 3K. In hindsight I should have made this more clear. Sorry for the confusion.

This outcome does not support the "overcharging" scenario: > Not charging <

Oh C'mon now. I did 10k on this. You can make Tellico from Houston in a day, if you leave at 4am.

More Pics

Thanks for posting that, Kevin, as I had not realized I might have captured you not "looking your best." In my own case, my best has been pretty low rent since the '90's! Seriously, I have been chronicling SSR's since the first. I take (quite literally) hundreds of amateurish pix and then cull those down to (still too many) ones and post them here and, occasionally, another Guzzi forum. That culling process is often hurried. In this case, commitments and chores on our return meant I didn't even get to add captions to the pix. I like those as if the pix don't insult the victims enough, the captions add a coup de grâce. But, "sneaky," no, at least ever intentionally. Now, as do all "historians," I may take liberties with the truth, but that is almost always in the sense of not posting unflattering pix of me, e.g., a sullen look, picking my nose, or one that highlights my avoirdupois. Heck, maybe that's why I take the pix anyway, i.e., to have few of me and delete any that I get that others take -- at least with my camera. For example, Kathi -- who ALWAYS looks better than I do -- asked someone to get a pic of the two of us. This: As always, Kathi looks great; I failed to "suck it in," so ... yup, I didn't post it in the slideshow, thus proving that I, too, am not immune from vanity. Finally -- OK, almost -- I often take pix (especially of the posed kind such as the one you complained about) in "bursts," and then choose the one in which the fewest people are blinking or whatever. In the case of the one of the three of you, Josh, and Adam, I only took two, did not study those intently, thus posted the one you did not like. Here's the other: As I peck out this TLDR response to your concern, both the original and this are in the slideshow. Unless I hear differently from you, I'll sub the second for the original, as I think it does show you in a better light without making Josh and Adam less handsome than their actual selves. [Edited to say "done." ] Now, happily for all reading this, I have to go tend to one of those back-home tasks. The plumber crew will be here in about 15 minutes for their second day of work on our septic system. They are “renewing” our Alternative Septic System’s peat mo$$, and will leave with $12K of our moto-money! I now know why scotch whisky is so expensive. I wish I had known that peat moss was so dear when I chose my legal career. But “Greta” wasn't around then, so I had no idea that to save the Chesapeake Bay I need to pump the contents of our fluids’ tank to an ASS — a fitting acronym — with its pricy peat moss before it was declared clean enough. Grrrrr. Bill P.S. Nothing above, Kevin, is meant to make light of your knee pain. After a career in the Army, involving as it did, routinely running in boots on pavement, jumping out of airplanes in the 82d Airborne Division, and other "fun," my own knees are shot, so I quite literally "feel your pain." Best wishes with yours, with the hope that both of us can ride for a long time to come.

If you come thru Houston please let me know…can meet at Classic Rock in Navasota!

Tap and Hold on an iPad = right click on PC, opens up a menu allowing similar functions.

'coarse'

My 2000 has 10mm caliper bolts.

900 miles in a day on the Norge or the Griso is in the realm of possibility, although I prefer a slower more touring pace rather than an Iron Butt! The Scura would be quite a bit more difficult to do so and enjoy the next day. Hats off for riding the Sporti that many miles! Did you use that for the Tour of Texas also?

I should just check what size your caliper bracket mount bolts are. DOCC says they are 10mm (therefore 45-50 Nm), but mine are 8mm (therefore 25-30 Nm) - My MG is a 2004 LeMans.

Here's some key points about engine oil. Always use a "full synthetic" oil. The lower the "W" number the better. People that say a "0" weight oil is too thin don't know shit about oil. Try to keep the viscosity spread to 30 units or less if possible. Change it regularly Don't allow your engine to do short runs that don't let the engine oil spend some decent time at operating temp. Zink in a flat tappet engine? 900PPM to 1400 PPM is where you need to be. Too much is not good as is too little. Phil

Reread my post about difference of potential. I am trying to get the original poster to check the integrity of the charge lamp circuit. I want to know why the light is not on w/KOEO , KOER but comes on when the alternator is producing an overcharge situation. According to Kiwi_Roy if the integrity of this circuit is not good or if the regulator is not grounded perfectly , the charging system will overcharge.

Having read thru the the last couple of pages that were written in the last few hours. 12.3 while running is too low, do you have a comparison to what it was running at before changing the regulator? Now, the light coming on at revs, suggests possibly that the lamp is vibrating in its holder and making some light contact. Have you actually taken the dash apart (carefully) to look at the lights as well and see if they are seated properly? I just tested my Scura...13.3 at idle, 14.5 at revs...a few years ago, if my memory serves me correctly, Chuck had advised me to upgrade the wire on the voltage regulator and to use a star washer there where it grounds as well for better contact. Have you checked the grounding of the regulator?

The lamp itself can illuminate with far less than 12 volts, so the lit lite doesn't tell us the circuit voltage is good. I'm curious about the headlamp too, LEDs are internally regulated to about 5vdc so even if for instance the headlight circuit is only getting 8vdc the LEDs are still bright. I'm trying not to confuse the OP, or myself, by theorizing too much before he can catch up on physical diagnostics.

I beg to differ. Look at the V11 wiring diagram here, page 364 https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf Ok, I see you have posted again whilst I was writing and checking my sources, and have seen it already, but I will continue for the sake of general edification. When the key is switched on, the lighting relay switches on and provides power through a red-black wire to the entire lighting circuit, and the oil light, fuel light, tacho (power, not the back-light), and the reference voltage for the regulator. After the charge warning light, a light blue wire goes to the regulator. The regulator switches this to ground when the charging voltage is below the battery voltage (key on, engine off, or the alternator has failed), causing the charge warning light to light up. So: the presence or absence or functionality of the charge warning light can not have any influence on whether the charging system works or not. and, the reference voltage supply is the same one that causes the warning lamp to light up, actually, but the two functions (reference and warning) are completely independant of one another. It's like they "stole" a bit of the reference voltage to light the lamp. I find that somehow weird, but apparently it works.

No, Merlin and gardens are mutually exclusive. I had a nice garden once and then we got a dog, sigh. Phil

The weird thing is that the lamp is not coming on when the ignition is switched on, but does light at higher revs. I'm referring to the schematic of the original regulator from Kiwi Roy that I attached here and to the wiring diagramme on page 364 of this workshop manual, which I believe is the correct one for the bike https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf The lamp comes on at higher revs, so we know for sure it is getting power, at least under those conditions. The power arriving there is shared by the oil light, the fuel level light, and the tacho. As I understand the diagram, it is not the tacho backlight, so if the tacho is working at all engine speeds, I'm assuming the power feed to the charge lamp is there all the time (for now) as the feed appears to be the same one that powers the tacho. Therefore, I suspect some sort of intermittent contact, in the lamp or on the way to the regulator, that is finding contact due to vibration a higher revs only. Bear in mind that an incandescent light bulb reacts slowly, so a barely separated contact that is finding intermittent contact due to vibrations could well be enough to make it look like it is lighting constantly. Referring to the Kiwi Roy schematic, the warning light comes on when the regulator switches the line coming from the warning light to ground. Therefore, contacting that wire to ground to check the lamp, as @gstallons suggested, is the way to check the lamp. According to the wiring diagram, however, that wire is light blue, not white. Whatever, given the described behaviour, if the lamp doesn't come on (Key on, engine off) with that light blue wire connected to ground, I would start the engine and see what happens at the engine speed at which it has been coming on. This is to test the "intermittent connection" theory against "the regulator is doing weird things". If it looks like there is an intermittant connection, it could be in the lamp itself, or in the socket. The next step along is in the connector number 8 at the bottom left of the wiring diagram, which I understand is the connector from the loom to the dashboard. After that, the connector at the regulator. Or a break in the actual wire. To cross check... Put the multi-meter on the Ohms setting, and measure the resistance (key on, engine off) between the connector on the regulator that the wire from the warning lamp connects to and ground (engine casing, battery minus...). That should be very close to zero(as I said, key on, engine off). Then start the engine. If the regulator is doing the right thing, the resistance should now be very high, effectively infinite. If not, the first guess is that the volts from the alternator aren't getting into the regulator, or the regulator might be dodgy. Now rev the engine slowly up to the revs at which the lamp was coming on. If the measured resistance was very high (infinite) right from the start and suddenly drops at high revs, it would seem that the regulator is doing weird stuff that I can't explain right now. I rather suspect that the measured resistance will turn out to be close to zero the whole time. That would indicate that the regulator isn't getting the volts from the alternator (or is faulty) and that there is an intermittent, vibration sensitive fault in the warning lamp circuit preventing the lamp from lighting all the time as the switch in the regulator is "telling" it to. In other words, I think it is possible that there are two problems happening simultaneously making it difficult to find either one.

Maybe Key On, Engine Off...also a possibility. Do you have an external voltage reader attached to the battery to check volts, while off and while running? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJXTMT3Z?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KE9A?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

Evoluzione?! Italiano

Did we have this one already.

. Over the years,I’ve ridden to the SSR on a Ballabio, Griso, EV, Stornello, V7 III, and Norge! Bill

Great pics! So nice to see a Goldwing, Norge also comfortable amongst the Spine Raiders!

What a nice Coppa! Now that I see that people are not frowned on for trailering, maybe I'll do the same next year, in as much as I enjoy riding long distances, the Scura has no bags for required gear other than a rear tail bag...ideas, ideas!

Something between the trailers and the tractor . . .

I always have some favorites from Bill's SlideShow . . .

You and everyone else that owns a V11 & a Christmas tree.

There they are...I think I see a little smoke rising still

Hi! I wanted to know if there is some kind of thematic group in a messenger? For example, Telegram?

Kidding aside, since we're talking about brakes and axles, the caliper bracket mount bolts are 10mm and the Workshop Manual says to torque to 45-50 nM (~33-37 ft-lbs). The pinch bolts are 6mm and torque to 8-12 nM (6-9 ft-lb). Accurate torque presumes clean, lubricated threads and a smooth hand.

I'm pretty sure you have to torque them in Newton-Meters. Otherwise, the threads talk about you at night while you're sleeping . . .

There are hardly any specs in the manual where I would want them. Instead, there's a single page, pretty early in the manual, with torque specs. It has maybe 20-30 specific specs, such as cylinder head nuts and alternator shaft nut. At the bottom it gives specs for bolts of various sizes, like M6, M10, etc. FWIW - I printed an extra copy of that page and keep it in the folder of my shop manual. Here's a shop manual printing shortcut: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19504

My bikes are older but reduced yak fat seems to work OK in them Pete