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There is nearly 5" of travel in the front forks of a V11. That is from fully extended to fully compressed. If you support the bike properly and raise the front wheel off the ground you should have nearly 5" (something like 120mm) of the smaller diameter fork tube exposed. That tells you how much actual total suspension travel you have. When the weight of the bike is on the suspension, that nearly 5" of travel would compress. If your fork springs are the correct rate, the front forks should compress around a 1/2" or so under just the weight of the bike. That would be 10% of 5" / 120mm. That should leave over 4" of travel, easily measured by measuring how much of the smaller fork tube is exposed. Full suspension travel in "upside down forks" is reached right before the smaller fork tube is pushed all the way into larger upper tube. Thus, measuring how much smaller fork tub is exposed tells you how much suspension travel is left. Some people like to have more sag under just the weight of the bike, maybe upwards of 20%. So that would mean nearly an inch of sag under just the weight of the bike. That would still leave nearly 4" of suspension travel left. If you run extra sag, you will have to adjust your target sag with you on the bike as well. And you will have less suspension travel to absorb bumps, but you gain droop, suspension extension. I would rather have more compression stroke of my suspension. But to each their own. Also, I think it is a good idea to balance front and rear sag. Often only rear sag is easily adjustable. I would set rear preload so rear sag is comparable to front sag. If rear sag is excessive compared to front sag that means riding down the road you will have poor balance and more relaxed rake than you should have. If you have less rear sag than front sag balance is still off, in the other direction, and the actual rake while riding down the road will be more aggressive.

Thanks again mate. I just went out and checked mine... I have 100mm or just over it (wasn't too pedantic about it) with the bike on the side stand so looks like spring rate is correct as I suspected after having the forks upgraded. Cheers Guzzler

Yeah. The one that cracks. Anybody got one for sale? Not cracked obviously....

This guy had one for sale a couple of months ago, but the listing closed. Maybe you could contact him and ask. The price was good. https://www.ebay.com/itm/364001406540?hash=item54c02cae4c:g:URcAAOSwWKdjB-7t&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoHvRSgDK9%2FZtCXarQWbuFm9XemjrmLqhNgWPIRIrnNnrHSJiwGG5BudPuktlduxUWdvOtxb33jR31Hd3J24rxawnLeNxXqxLzaGMMIVr%2FHJIz64fPprWOmqwrkF%2BPyBEsworWRIsp%2BCPQNZR6BacfJ54Qq0xKgdMkyljuRZS0fSkakwElkvpxbKp08E%2FpgKvTPtGaLixtQ3l5DE%2Bpr81Znw%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6bHuqT0YA

Yeah, six speed. Five speeds are ten a penny. I sold all my *Old* Guzzi munt a few years ago including several five speeds in various states of distress but I've still got one n the shed! I'm sure it just got squeezed out of some other space/time continuum and simply popped into existence in my garage because I sure as shit didn't put it there!

Oil filters are sold w/the understanding they are externally mounted. It is up to the customer to remove labels to keep them from being a "factor" . This oil filter is the most important maintenance item you will ever install . You can install price or quality . Which one do you want ? I don't know how many filters interchange with this application . Wix , Baldwin , all OEM filters , AC Delco , Motorcraft , Mopar (yes US filters) , Wix , etc.....all good . Others , you will have to take one on one as far as good quality . Fram , the worst filters ever produced .

Thanks for that.

Yes RM front axles are threaded. Tool kit should contain a short length of allen key you can use with a spanner to undo axle

4.5" rear wheel...I'll go with the 160.

To tell if your spring rates are right is fairly easy. Measure how much the bike sags with you on it in riding position. Get that sag where it needs to be, usually around 25% of total suspension travel. Then measure how much the bike sags under its own weight, without you on it. Both sag measurements should be from suspension fully extended, that is the baseline. Compare the two different amounts of sag. Typically you want around 25% sag with you on it and 10% sag without you. Some like a little more sag with you on board, maybe 30%. But either way. If you have the right amount of sag with you on the bike but not enough sag when it is just the weight of the bike your spring rate is too soft. The soft spring required too much preload to get sag correct with you on board and thus sag without you on board was too little. If the sag is too much without you on board after getting sag right with you on board your spring rate is too stiff. The second thing is, for the early V11 forks, the compression adjust does almost nothing. Until the piston in the fork moves past the bleed holes the valving and the adjuster do nothing. All the fork oil simply goes out through the bypass holes. If your V11 has a set of the early 'zook's the adjuster doesn't do anything until you block off those holes. A great tip when trying to dial in suspension is to tie a small zip tie around the fork or shock, the smaller the better. Tighten it tight enough that it stays where ever it is put. Slide it all the way against the moving side of the suspension, then ride. That will show you if the suspension is too stiff and not using the travel, leading to a harsh ride, or if the suspension is bottoming because it is using all the travel too easily. Suspension can feel harsh for either reason, it can be hard to tell the difference, but what is needed to be done to fix the issue can be completely different.

I rode to work today, 20 miles one way with no issues. I plan to do so the remainder of the week. If all goes well, I'll count the V11 as road worthy. I noticed at 80mph, RPM is just over 4,000, nearly the same as my V7. This surprised me. Although the V7 feels like it's working hard at that RPM, the V11 feels merely cruising.

She's starting to get sorted out. Plugged the mirror mount holes in the fairing and went to a neat set of bar ends. Like them so much I'm thinking about putting some on the Coppa. Used the cheapo Amazon wraparound fork mount signals. Double sided mounting tape with 1/2" aluminum angle, just below the headlights. Baffles in the pipes, didn't make them much quieter but they have a deeper burble. I've never been a big fan of traction control, I've always thought you should hone skills the old fashion way. I still think that but if you know how to ride well without it it's a pure joy when you put the two together and ride with it. And quickshifters are awesome

Ha ha Mate I've had some work done on the bike and sorted the suspension so she's all ready to go if it ever stops bloody raining down here....! I can't wait to do a few more but will have to wait till after Xmas.Crazy time of the year with weather to match. Actually, some of the high- country roads are washed out and won't be re-opened for some time but like last time we'll figure out a way round it and I'll report in due course! Cheers Guzzler

Time, again, for our brothers below to set forth from Drouin without the single digits and freezing fog to regale us with tales of the road and fascinating place-names!

"This doesn't look like [Oklahoma], Toto . . ."

I mean, mySport has never run better. I guess I'll install a Genuine / P.Roper MotoModa ® plate "when the time comes." Maybe when the Genuine Joe Caruso® timing gears get mounted. Maybe replace the original valve cover gaskets . . . I am very proud that V11LeMans.com, and @Pressureangle in particular, has honored @pete roper's engineering/design contribution to this community.

After a trip to the White Mtns. last month I decided to lower my V11 LeMans foot pegs for a bit more comfort. My mechanic and I found a way to lower the stock foot pegs using existing mounting holes. It lowers them about an inch. I can gain another inch if I switch to Buell pegs. But for now, these are significantly more comfortable. Attached are before and after pics of both sides. The left side is a simple swap. The right side needs a different bolt. (Still lovin' the bike Tim! It's my go to GT bike.) Mike

Finished lowering the pegs as milar outlined above. The increased leg room is perfect. I had a little trouble getting the brake pedal to move freely while holding the peg tight, but worked it out with the addition of a nut right up against the peg mount. I ordered and received spacers to fill out the inner diameter of the brake pedal. They fit over the M10 bolt and very nearly (maybe 1mm shy, a little play) make up the gap. The only drawback of the new arrangement is shifting up, as the shifter lever is too high and I can't shift without removing my foot from the peg (a lot of false neutrals). Is the shifter angle adjustable? I'm happy to send you my extra hardware (two extra long M10 bolts for the right side, plus nine sets of spacers. PM me with your mailing address, no charge.

I bought these: http://motobits.com/guzzi.htm solves the shifter problem too. [docc Copied Image Location.]

Hey Pete, you got them in Aus or did they all go OS? I'll throw one in the new bike if you still have one..

I did exactly what you have done as soon as I got the bike, that and drilled headstock to accept higher bars, a comfy bike.

Sent you a PM.