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Our hometown (Barlow) had a solar eclipse in 2017 and 2024 . It was in a pathway for both eclipses . This year's eclipse was spectacular v the one in 2017. I did remember where my Pink Floyd CD was and went back home , retrieved it and put in to play when the big show was taking place . Incredible as it seems , it was the first time hearing it w/o the influence of illegal substances .... hmmmm . The sky was DARK whereas the earlier eclipse turned everything hazy like someone was burning wheat fields . There were people ALL over the place around here from Oregon , Canada , etc. I thought The Beatles had reunited !

Depends on what year. There are 2 different sizes. The earlier red frame bikes had the fine thread in from memory 18mm and the later M20. Phil

Cornet. Lovely. And what a cool tuba. The little dancing girl has excellent taste.

Tom is on the right track with his questions, I think. The output shaft of the gearbox will have a bit of play relative to the input shaft of the gearbox, as will the final drive from the input shaft to the wheel drive. That is normal. The drive shaft should sit tight on the bolted up splines, both the one out of the gearbox and the one into the final drive. The uni-joints have no play at all in them when they are good. You need to have a specific look at all the steps along the way. PS: at 6,000 miles I would be checking if it is all apart anyway, but not expecting any trouble. Assuming the bike hasn't been mistreated. Anuvverps: there is also the sliding spline in the middle of the shaft that compensates for the difference in length as the suspension goes up and down. That will have a very small amount of play. If it didn't, it wouldn't slide.

The aluminum flywheels cracking are not dissimilar to the stamped steel A.T. flywheels in vehicles. These are prone to cracking and bust the centers out.

Speaking with the seller in Florida. Guzzi 1947

Go to a tool store or auto parts store and purchase a metric thread gauge . Measure your pivot and you will have it. You can remove the jam nut so you can get access to the threads.

Here's a link to the discussion on the two different sizes: And here's a pick of my spare M22 pivots up against the size/thread checker. It's a very fine thread.

It's pointless discussing fine tuning a Guzzi for the subtle operations such as fine throttle response, idle and coughing when you are trying or indeed running it on 100 octane race fuel. The higher the octane rating the less volatile the fuel and the more likely you are to have low speed throttle response and idling issues. Low volatility is great for anti knock but bad for pretty much everything else. The greater volatility of lower octane fuels also helps with intake temps due to better evaporation in the inlet manifold which also is the reason the higher octane fuels often exhibit poor low speed running. We ran some race engines on 100LL Avgas back in the day on injected Ducati Superbike engines and they exhibited poor low speed running especially when the engine was cold and the only advantage it offered was consistency. In the IOM years ago the guy in the next garage to us was using it in his Kawasaki production bike and it was a bitch to keep running properly on start up even with choke at 0430 in the cold weather before the 5am practice started. The Sunco 100 race fuel is actually 104 RON octane and the highest pump fuel we have here is 98 Octane, so it's a decent jump. America uses some average number of RON and MON for their ratings. So on a Guzzi engine I'm pretty confident the Sunco fuel will result in worse low speed running especially at cooler OAT's and poorer starting as well. It's street legal in the US but mostly used by massive boost road car nutters you have there.

Ok Thanks for the insights. I have gone back and checked. It seems the play is between the gearbox and the output shaft. The UJ seems to be fine! Thanks again, Paul.

Without getting off into the weeds about octane and the pro's / con's of running 100 octane race fuel in a bike not made for it, I would agree with docc that a good place to start when you are having running issues is the Decent Tune Up that he linked to. Has it always done this or is this new, @Daveguzzi1 ?

I think M20x2.5 is considered coarse thread, and M20x2.0 is considered fine thread. M20x1.5 is considered extra fine thread. I don't know if there is a M20x1.0 thread.

I did not know this would digress into a fuel conversation as I stated in one of my first post.I run one hundred octane sunoco ethanol free. When on a longer ride I run the best available. When I put the bike away I siphon the shit California gas out and put some good stuff in. I get my fuel down the street from a gas station. They sell a lot of race fuel so it is fairly fresh. 10 bucks a gallon

Tenni in Florida. https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2002-Moto+Guzzi-V11-5031316151 Asking $9,750. Interestingly, the same bike was listed on the same site at $8,250 a few days earlier.

AMG could well be right. The brand name exists.

I experienced an eclipse, I think it was a total, in Australia when I was about 15, and one in Germany in around 1998 or '99. Weird, interesting, exciting, lots of words for it. I'm very glad I had the experience.

As of august, 2004, @Paul Minnaert had reported four of these failures. Bad production run? Unknowable. Yet it seems that if the problem affected all of the V11 aluminum flywheels, we would have seen about two failures every year for the last twenty years.

actually we traveled to Dallas and got an airBnb apartment across from Texas Stadium, about a mile from 6 Flags. We were worried about the weather. And more so, finding a venue since my wife is recovering from knee replacement. My youngest son ordered 6 Flag tickets on the drive down.

Since s arm is of, you are talking about front part of shaft connected to the tranny ? Can you move,slide the shaft a bit on the splines, if, tighten the bolts. Shoud be NO play in the ujoint. Cheers Tom.

Seems like that sort of thing deserves a topic of its own off in Banter . . .

No argument here. And far be it from me to become an apostle for anything but the many Odysseys i have or have had. Just more or less parroting what you, others, and myself have all hit upon, which is that time has led to the evolution of the batt tech to the extent that now we seem to be mostly living with the reputation/issues of the past which may not be as applicable now. In the example noted on the posts just above, sounds like you’ve got an old odyssey thats still performing, and I also have averaged 7-9+ yrs on my odysseys, and even then they aren’t “dead”, so that has always kept me a loyal follower. I’m just adding in the data point(s) that this old shorai I’ve got is also in that age range, experienced a couple of the “too far gone” near-death experiences (voltage dropped to below the normally recoverable range due to issues on the KTM) early on, but not only is it not dead but its cranking the V11 longer and harder than any battery I’ve used…..All much to my surprise. I looked up the specs on it, and sure enough it indicates more CCA than the equivalent odyssey (no surprise, given the nature of the 2 different chemistry/techs), but i figured it would die fast given its age & abuse, and lack of amp-hr, which just didn’t happen. Weird, in a good way, and not really sure what to conclude from that. As another data point in line with the title of this thread, I did last year remove a cheap-O lithium battery from another of my (larger cc) bikes, one that I inherited from the previous owner of the bike. The brand… hmm…. I’ll think of it. I think it was 3 letters (AMG maybe?), and shows to be about half the price of the usual higher end lithium batteries. When i removed it, it was just shy of 7 yrs old. It got no special treatment, spent the winters on a 2a lithium specified tender (For better or worse?), and it did experience the bad trait of barely performing in cold winter conditions (barely cranked the bike when down around 0 degrees C). But other than that it performed fine. It just spooked me when I’d go to start the bike in cold conditions, and was getting old, so i replaced it. The new lithium battery i put in cranks the bike really well in the cold (EarthX)… so far very good, but it’s new.

Saw it in Marble Falls, TX. I saw the last one in Oregon in 2017 with my oldest daughter. My wife took my other daughter to PA for her first year college move in, so they both missed out. Flash forward to now. That same daughter is a grad student at UT Austin. My wife's birthday was the day of the eclipse. Visting my daughter in Austin and seeing the eclipse was her birthday present. It was a great trip!

Got to see it here in Indiana. Made my life problems seem insignificant for a few minutes...

Thanks Audiomick…. I was looking for exactly that info on the guzzidiag info this afternoon.

I've had this.... few things trying before you go crazy and ripping stuff apart: What gas you using? If you're not using Super, that can be it. I know. It's silly. But even I tried using 89. It'll be fine for about a tank or two, but eventually, your bike will cough. When was the last time you got the throttlebodies synched? Yeah, yeah.. I know... Your throttlebody cups too loose? Too tight? Cracked? Been there. I had a crack in one of mine you couldn't see when the bike was off. But when idling, I saw it. $25-$30 at MG Cycles. Change and synch the throttlebodies. It looks like you hit most of the common things. Plugs, checking the rubbers, etc. I'm sure it's simple. Could be dirty throttlebodies. I ran fuel cleaner which has worked. But you gotta burn that tank up on the freeway or something. You don't want that fuel cleaner sitting in the tank. I ran it 80-90miles which seemed to do the job and then topped off the tank to dilute the detergent. I can already see the veteran readers here facepalming.... Hey, it worked.. But a big silly one is the gas. Don't try using 89 octane. Run super. It'll make these bikes cough like unbalanced throttlebodies or bad plugs.

As hard as I try to learn the playing, sometimes it's more about the dancing . . .

Bumpity, bumpity. Project 701 awaits space in the garage! Will have the Scura at the Oregon Vintage Moto Show & Swap in May and the weather improves daily. PM me if you have any referrals or additional suggestions. Added to ADV Rider where I originally found her. Fat Amy, the Africa Twin is sensing I'm in selling mode and feeling a bit skittish. Sherco gone, Scura needs moved ...... Spring cleaning!

I have been sidetracked with other vehicular issues on other vehicles. I did order a fuel filter bag thingy and a gasket so when I take the tank off I could pull that off and check it and replace it. My intention is to replace several vacuum hoses and lines that are under the tank and in front of the seat area because I can see visible cracks. I haven't forgotten to respond I've just been a little busy. I will post what I know more

At some point, @Guzzi 1947, a dedicated thread with this Tenni joining your alluring stable (with pics!) would be most welcome . . .

Watching for new member @motoguzzikc to post his concern, probably in Technical Topics, so we can dive into helping him and getting his V11 Sport alive and well . . .

Discussion about flywheel failure concerns archived in this pinned topic: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/31018-aluminum-flywheel-failure/

Sheesh, Most thieves in my area couldn't get one started!!!

Probably more like they can't unload them quickly...

I have a Shorai lithium battery in my bike. LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) is the most stable and least likely to catch fire of all the battery technologies. For cold starting, I have never noticed any problem, but Shorai says: "If starting at 5°C, headlights on for 30 seconds will help wake the battery and increase cranking performance. If at -17°C (1°F), leave the lights on for 4~5 minutes before cranking. The result will be a better first crank, and longer battery life. If the engine fails to start on first crank, that first crank has warmed the battery, and the second attempt will be much stronger." I've been told that it needs a "balance charge" once a year or so. It comes with a dedicated charger that plugs into a tiny 5 pin socket and manages the voltage of each cell. The charger also has a "storage" button that holds the battery at 70% for longer shelf life. The Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 cranks my V11 well after 7 years. LiFePO4 is also in my electric car, but outside temperature is not an issue as it has a liquid battery temperature management system.

I've never been a fan, but I needed a light weight at all costs battery for my little homebuilt airplane. Did the research and found one about the right size and cranking amps. It weighs practically nothing. Since I needed it to mount it and leave room for all the other things on the firewall, I bought it first. From the time I bought it until first start was about a year and a half. Cranked right up.