Chuck

If the ground is lost, the regulator will overheat and fail the smoke test. That will cost you some money. (Guzzi content) I told Paul this weekend to do that when he asked what does the regulator do. "Uhhhh.. regulate." I'd never given a thought to someone not knowing *what* it regulated. Obviously, we need a short tutorial on how to ground the regulator and why. With pictures. Who's going to step up? I can't. Lost my phone at the Knot a rally.

Talked at JJ briefly at Dusty's rally. That Marlboro LeMans above would look good with me on it..

No, it's just a socket head cap screw. Typical for this application.

agreed..

Riiiiight. It was 31 freekin degrees this morning.

Like any other hammer. The "file" makes indentations in the bump and shrinks it. The thick leather on the panel beater's hammer does the same thing, but it's more delicate. I don't know why it works.

Maybe the V11 with the Swedish bikini team..

You don't need to pull the tank.. but you *do* need that ground wire. You'll be sorry if you let that 10 minute job slide.

21K? That sux..

Well, duh. Some times I don't type what I'm thinking.. the only time it has to be hot is when you *change* the CO, like Docc said.

I've done it, so it can't be hard..

Oh, goody.. I get to learn all about the innards of this rear drive.. without having to do it myself.

If you can kill it at 3500 with judicious use of the throttle, I'd say TPS. Guzzi diag will tell all..

^^^^^Dawn. The Monkey's recommendation with Dawn. Of course, they'll *never* be the same. Call it patina, and wear it like a badge of honor. "Yep, dang things get looking like this after 100000 miles. Probably oughta be a warranted.."

Sounds kind of magical.. so I'd guess that removing and installing the tank is disturbing that mess of connectors up around the steering head. I think I'd do the De Oxit trick with all of them.

Lucked out. I had more damage when the Mighty Scura fell off the stand.

Naa, I'll get a NEP. Ugly, but effective. Been using them for years without issue on my touring bikes. Just thought I'd try one of these for the trip. Thanks for the warning.

Welcome, Jack. The low fuel light is triggered by a thermistor in the tank. It changes resistance as it gets warmer from being covered with less fuel, so the fuel light barely begins to glow until as the fuel gets lower it will be at full brightness. Sounds good, right? Unfortunately, the electric petcock has the same connector, and if they are hooked up backwards and the fuel is low, the thermistor burns up. Not good. There is a yellow stripe on the matching pair, but it many times goes unnoticed. To test the light, jumper the two pins with the ignition switch on. The light should work. To test the thermistor, check ohms between the two pins. I don't remember the value.. I'm old.. but if it's either shorted or open, it's toast. They're not cheap, but should be ok unless someone has reversed the leads.

I've never tried it, but I'll bet you could rig up some sort of hillbilly thing with air pressure and a gauge to see where it blows off? There's gotta be *some* reason for 2 pumps going tits up. I did this to set the pressure on the aero engine pressure relief valve..

Hey, Scud.. Dave at WG has a Centauro with a failed pump "and" pressure regulator. Maybe the regulator is your problem?

Always glad to see a happy customer..

Sounds like a clue, Dr. Watson..

Just plug it in and check.. the only time it has to be hot is when you look at CO.

It does on the Scura's 15M.. are they different?