Lucky Phil

I dont believe this finish is Zink Chromate docc, it looks more like the Alodine and 814 treatment to me. I used to carry out this process on Skyhawk drop tanks and other stuff. Rub the part down with acidic 814 and apply the Alodine and rinse off with water. Gives alclad that translucent green hue. The Zink Chromate primer I have experience with in the Aviation industry and on Ducati Magnesium parts from the 80's etc is a flat olive green colour. We had to stop using it at work years ago as its a carcinogenic. Ciao

Hope you like it. It's really all Chucks good work Ciao.

Here in Australia we still have a wide choice of Ethanol and non Ethanol fuels in the major populated areas. So std unleaded 91 octane RON (US 87 Octane AKI) is now generally a 10-15% Ethanol mix but we also have 95 and 98 RON ( US 91-93/94) which is Ethanol free. I run all the bikes and the Ford Kuga we have which is a 2 liter turbo on the 98 and the old Mazda Astina I have on 95 in the summer because it detonates in the hot weather and 91 in the winter. Ciao

Fueling with the engine running!!!! not only a risk to yourself but everybody else using the petrol station. Lucky the station attendant didn't catch you, he would have had kittens.I'm sure that Nigel was following all the procedures for "Hot Refueling" after completing a hazard reduction risk assessment, and was wearing OSH approved PPE. Ha, PPE like the suit those bomb disposal guys wear Ciao

Fueling with the engine running!!!! not only a risk to yourself but everybody else using the petrol station. Lucky the station attendant didn't catch you, he would have had kittens. Ciao

I have an Electrosport one as well and have not fitted it due to the std one now charging fine after I sorted the voltage drop issue. Cant see any advantage in it so its a spare for when the inevitable occurs. Ciao

You need the split rings. Item 4 in the parts manual. Ciao

Overall weight of the flywheel is only one factor in its effect. More importantly is where on the assembly is the weight distributed. Its possible to have a heavier flywheel assembly that has less effect than a lighter one depending on how far from the center the weight is concentrated. Ciao

Here is a photo of a Daytona phonic wheel and the retaining ring. The retaining ring is identical to the 2 valve engines but it obviously retains the jack shaft where the 2 valve retains the Cam shaft. Note the retaining ring has a large lip around the thrust face where the phonic wheel bears against it to control end foat. Well that face should be flat, hence the wear produces end float and in this case it looks like it was about .5mm or so. I didn't measure it because it was up for replacement anyway. During your tensioner replacement you wouldnt have noticed it unless you went looking for it but at you mileage I'd imagine it will be worn and generating end float. Maybe the source of your noise. Here is the later updated version with the oiling slots

Another thought, these things wear the camshaft retaining ring quite badly. They came out with a revised item with oiling slots milled in them. I was wondering whether yours is badly worn and causing the noise. The early 4 valve engines made a lot of noise from camshaft end float and there was a service mod to shim the cams to quieten them down. If the cam retaining ring is worn í'm sermising it may create excess cam end float on the 2 valve engine as well. May also explain how it seems to change depending on load and temperature of the engine. It easy to replace, just the front has to come off the engine again and the cam sprocket and then 3 bolts. MG cycle sells the replacements for about $40 or so I think. Ciao

When you had the push rods out to check the ends did you also check that they were straight and the rods had no rub marks on them from the push rod tunnels? Ciao

Thanks! I looked around for anything on the outside, but the sound really sounds like coming from inside the engine. Yesterday evening I dropped the sump, as any metal fur doesn't have to be magnetic. I checked the magnet and the sump oil filter, but did not find any metal. I did find a lot of sludge and some water, but the bike is parked in a cold shed and hasn't run in a month, so that doesn't surprise me. I did find GREY sludge (I'm used to it being white/yellow-ish, like mayonnaise), is that normal? Here's a picture: Anyone seen something like that? My plan is to install an oil pressure gauge (it could start to rattle due to low oil pressure). If that's OK, I'll just ignore the rattle and drive it until something breaks Looks like aluminium paste based sludge. Ciao

Because not all brands of fork oil weights are the same viscosity for their advertised weight what I do when I pull down a set of forks is measure the viscosity of what comes out so I have a baseline for what goes in irrespective of brand. So I use a very rudimentary method of a syringe cylinder with the plunger removed and a stop watch. Fill the syringe with your finger over the outlet and then remove and time the emptying or a set volume and compare it to the new oil you are putting in. Then mix and match weights to get what you want. If you need a different weight to whats in there at least you have a baseline and can estimate the change based on how it compares to the new oil. Its annoying when you're happy with the damping the way it was and refill with the same weight only to find the damping has changed. Ciao

Norris motorcycle cams are now Megacycle cams and have been for some time. Some info for you. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/norris-cam-history.296994/ Ciao

On bikes with angled bars you also get air trapped at the master cylinder connection. Loosen off the master and remove from the bar with the line still connected obviously and carefully raise the lever end until its slightly higher than the connection ( you need the reservior level under half usually) and then very carefully work the lever slightly, repeatedly,just taking the freeplay out of it and you will notice air bubbles coming into the reservior. Bolt it back on the bar and check. Juggling the lever with it in the position mentioned breaks free the bubbles in the connector point and they then float into the reservior through the return port. Ciao

Try emailing them, like many companies they dont necessarily advertise for 16 year old bikes but can possibly make on request. Ciao

The guys at MG Cycle have assured me this kit will seamlessly replace the clutch assembly in my 2001 Rosso and is in stock. And they suggested it's about half the price of replacing the existing single plate clutch with an OEM dual plate clutch. It will apart from the gearbox drive spline piece (leave the original one in place) and MAYBE the clutch push rod. The main clutch and flywheel unit is the same as the 5 speeders with the possible exception of the push rod receptacle. There is a thread on the push rod issue here somewhere and whether or not you need a 5 speed one. The most economical way for you I believe. Ciao

Check Huite's bike bike on Paul Minnaerts site, its fitted with PVM wheels. http://www.fastguzzi.nl/ Ciao

Apologies seems I'm missing a lot of details these days. Ciao

- Replaced cam chain and tensioner for the Stucci type with spring. Cold idle improved again, no change. Rattle remained. He did that.. hard for me to hear anything not normal in the video accept what sounds like you dropped a tool off camera.. better than a hose put the butt of a big screw driver to your ear and place the tip around the block, heads, timing cover etc to try isolating the noise. Ok, missed that although if the chain is shagged ( which it shouldnt be at those miles) it still might rattle anyway. Just a thought. Ciao

It wont be detonation at idle, sounds a bit like the cam chain. Might be time to check the tensioner Ciao

Prostrate cancer Roy? Is that the lying face down stretched out cancer? Ciao

My extender arrived today Chuck, really nice piece. Thanks very much to you and docc. Ciao

Warning? not really its not the plate its the flywheel that fails and can take out the crankcases with it. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16675 Ciao

Like Chuck said if its done that kind of mileage on the originl single plate clutch then its about time to pull it down and replace the flywheel and clutch assy. The outcome for a failed unit is too severe and dangerous and its a matter of when not if. Your shifting issue sound like clutch not gearbox to me. Ciao