footgoose

I don’t see how they could have positioned the required sized air filter any other place. I have a Suzuki and have had two BMWs that require a lot more than just removing the tank. Worst thing about tank removal is the fuel line. And be prepared for tank “stretch” by watching what happens when the rear bolt comes out.

I stripped a set, one each from 2 different bikes. One stripped clean with 1 coat. The other was so hard it still is not clean after 8 coats of stripper. I gave up. A powder coater will sand blast, and the finish will be hard and beautiful. If you want the polish look, they can powder very close to that too. Welcome rich, let us know how you get on.

right where yours says 4 1/4" mine says 4 5/8" It most likely bent at the weld of tab to frame. It seems the weakest point. the right side is as yours measures a heavy/medium scotchbrite will remove a bunch of scratches (linear motion)

I wrote a comment about that back in post 27 of this topic, along with adding a grease nipple.I got a bolt that was too long, cut it to length, then threaded it the minimum amount needed. Yes Marty, that is the post I saw. I remember thinking mine rattles there a bit too. I'll keep looking for one, but that long of an unthreaded section And a socket head is rare. Nipple's are always a good idea too. Thank's for catching me up.

OK, who was the member that switched out the long shift lever pivot bolt with one with a longer un-threaded section? I can't find one anywhere. The problem with the stock bolt is the threaded section goes too deep into the carrier (on the inner end). The threaded area is a smaller diameter than the collar. Not by much, but causes it to rattle a bit at that spot. I remember someone mentioning it and forgot to follow up. I figure as long as we're focusing on shift improvement, why not?

Pretty bike. The black side and valve covers work well. Nice (rare) Stucci flyscreen too!

Great tool. Great price. I love mine. Maybe you should get another V11 to put on it. Where are you in Indiana? V11 are pretty scarce around here.

Docc Haynes ~ Vampire Slayer

If I may jump into this topic for a related question... I want to do a couple of small CF repairs and don't know squat about it. This - https://www.ebay.com/itm/The-only-real-carbon-fiber-cloth-plain-4K-weave-kit-and-epoxy-resin-for-repair/282908515374?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649- guy has several kits, but are different "weaves" 3k 4k 6k etc... I'm not sure what matters. Anyone have experience? I'm just going to get one and have at it. thanks

I have an extra set of stock '03 but are not CF. They are the black metal wrapped ones. You can have for 125.US. but I can't imagine what shipping would be ! personally, I would get some nice aftermarket, more open, (louder) mufflers. you'll thank yourself.

she looks familiar... is that a Husky in the background?

I hope I haven't miss read and redundified here the cup, (#5) or receiving hole that the push rod goes in to is different from 5 speed to 6. I have in my hand a cup from a v11 5 speed with a hole measuring 6.7 mm dia. I also have an oem Tenni cup that measures 8.75 mm. (can't believe I'm saying this but) just pull your rod out and see if it fits into the hole

minimum order 600. gosh

not as bad as I expected Chuck.. ..if you don't need stainless https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=1ct7e5z I'm ordering an assortment of these https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=1ct7gj8 It looks like the bevel spring lock washers and schnoors are the same thing. I had a front motor mounting socket head bolt unscrew itself and fall out recently. Oddly enough it had no affect on alignment. I only noticed it missing when I had to take the motor out last year. all good vid's and info btw. the knowledge "bear" should be poked once in awhile. Edit; I see the links don't get to the place I wanted to show. you'll need a couple more clicks sorry

I'm jealous too. Southeast MO is my father's family home ground. Maybe next time

mmm Tenni

Welcome Kevin!

I have used a auto OR manual 2/6/10 amp on 6 in the past to condition with great result. I guess I have what I need!

I got one from the last batch. It has made such an improvement in positive shifts. Small price, easy install, good result. Thanks for your time and expertise, Chuck and Lucky Phil.

lucky fix!

exactly.

If I may...... what be the charger of choice now for our pc545?

very nice Blight!

This is an interesting question. Engine numbers and frame numbers don't match. Frame is the VIN of course, with model and year ID, and that's what counts. Engine number (my best guess) reflects a series, or year range for parts reference. I wouldn't know how else to match a motor number to a particular frame. When doing the recall search at Piaggio, the engine number is not given. http://static.piaggio.com/recall/form-piaggio_en.html However, of my 2 bikes, the '02 has KR in the vin giving the model, "Sport" I would imagine. The recall inquiry reveals "Tenni", The motor number on the bike starts with KR. My '03 Rosso Corsa has a KT in the vin indicating Rosso C, as does the Piaggio site. The motor number also starts with KR which could mean one of two things. The motor has been replaced (no indication of that) or like many '03 bikes, it was just an '02 carry over. The sequence difference of the 2 motors is 9644, which seems rather high.

OK, I should’ve listened to you.