Scud

Those look cool. Good job taking a picture, since we all hope to never see them again after assembly.

Thanks. I am getting really good at taking this apart, and I understand how the shift mechanism works now (which I never did before). Supplies: I've got some engineer's blue and some Three-bond 1194 on order (also some more Redline Heavy Gear Oil). Selector arm straightness: I checked with a steel straightedge and I can certainly see some variance - which I suppose is from how the part was stamped. How did you straighten this part? I tried bending it by hand with it clamped in the vice, but I don't think I did much. Selector arm friction surfaces: Here's how I smoothed out the parts that slide over the pins. I used a broad hand file, then 220-grit sandpaper on a block. I got the two angled edges really smooth, but let a few marks inside the hook. The shiny area at the pivot was significantly worn (see pic in previous post), I could feel a bump-up to the unworn surface. I can slide a .010" feeler gauge between the arm and the gear with the pins (left gear in photo below) - but there is friction between the darker, RH gear and the arm. When I put in my smallest gauge (.0015") it's still tight (as pictured below). It lifts the gear a little when I force the gauge in. I'm tempted to grind that whole area of the arm to make it thinner - but I will wait for the spring first. Lever Spring: I think I will order one of these tomorrow. When the selector is in first and I move the lever as though I am downshifting I need to use a lot force to move the lever (the external one that the linkage connects to). But when it's in 6th and I move it as though I am upshifting (looking for the elusive 7th gear) I can move that linkage lever easily with my littlest finger - there is not much resistance from the spring, and it does not pull the arm back every time. This lever also had some wear and burrs - I cleaned it up. Current Situation: Downshifts are flawless. The arm returns correctly every time - didn't stick even once. Upshifts have some problems, but not every time. The lever does not fully return.

I think I have a used one that you can try - to see if that fixes the problem. PM sent.

Novice transmission worker in need of assistance... Parts diagram at Harpers for reference below: http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-cat-1100-2003-2004/gear-box-selector-en-v11-cat-1100-2003-2004.html Here are some images of the wear on my LeMans. You can see where the arm rubs on the gear - because it does not ride in the center of the channel (between the teeth and the semi-circular notches). I also noticed that selector spring (#25 on parts diagram) was bent out of shape (compared to a new one) - so it was probably on the way to failure. I've filed and polished all the friction-surfaces and installed the selector new spring. Some of the notchiness/resistance is gone and I can get it to flow correctly through all gears, up and down. However, it occasionally does not return all the way from upshifts (this happens maybe 1 out of every 10 shifts - enough to be annoying if that continues when on the bike. I suspect three possible causes: 1: The lever still rubs on the gear. The part is very close to being straight, but it still rubs at the pivot as well as the part that slides over the pins. I'd have to put a noticeable curve in it to get it to ride in the center of the gear's channel. 2: I wonder if the lever spring (#28 in diagram above) is weak and should be replaced. 3: The eccentric adjuster - I have not touched this yet, because I can run through all the gears correctly sometimes - I don't think moving this will help the arm return after upshifts. The shop manual is not much help here... it says things like "Check that the hook works correctly." And finally, what's a good sealant for this? It appears to have been put together with black silicone - and the shop manual only says "3M sealant."

Well, there goes the "never dropped" line from your ad if you ever decide to sell it. The low speed drop is humiliating (I'm in the "club"). But we pick up, inspect, learn the lesson, and move on... There's a spot on one of my favorite roads where I dropped a BMW R100CS with my girlfriend (now wife of 20 years). I look at it every time I pass and remind myself not to pull onto soft shoulders with front brake applied.

Thanks for coming out of retirement for this. They look like little soldiers - all dressed up in olive-drab, ready to be deployed to the shift-improvement wars. Mine will probably visit the powder-coater, along with some other bits for entertainment value.

Bummer indeed. I suppose you can only console yourself that the fan didn't fall on the front and damage the tanks or fairings. Or... you can think about worse things, such as the poor guy whose garage burned down with the bike in it. But the new, and unobtainable Ti cans... . I recall seeing a thread where someone rolled a dent out of the Ti cans (after taking the Ti skin off, I think they used a big pipe from the inside.) Still rolling the proverbial dice with the OEM clutch in the Scura - but yesterday was probably the last (or penultimate) roll. I'm going to do a lot of other stuff while I change the clutch... paint engine, check/improve transmission pre-selector, fork rebuild, all fluids, tires, etc. Gonna get her set up for a long spell of riding with no additional service needed. Maybe today I will conquer the LeMans' transmission. I've been commuting on it for the last few weeks and found that I can shift it well with great attention (and if I lapse then I miss a downshift). Yesterday's 300 miles of effortless shifting on the Scura provided the motivation to give requisite attention to the LeMans. I know Docc likes the elevation graphics from my GPS software... so here's yesterday. I didn't take any photos, but I rode right by the overlooks on Highways 243 and 330 where I've seen some other photos recently (at least from JB and Rox). I hit an invisible rock at the start of the climb that I highlighted. It provided me an unpleasant direction change and subsequent correction-wobble, but the steering damper did it's job and we straightened right up.

Today, I took the Scura on a proper loop (took the long way to a family barbecue in Orange County) with over 24,000 feet of elevation changes* - lots of ups and downs from sea-level to over 8,000 feet on the way to Big Bear. There is nothing like cranking up a loooong grade with the V11 howling. Tires are almost done, so now I'm thinking about another set of Angels or if I want to try the Michelin PR4s. *according to my trusty GPS track.

The long-awaited milestone has arrived... and she starts her journey toward 200,000. Very nice moment to make the magic mileage - better then commuting.

...and what does this mean? Did the V11 break down? Did somebody buy a Quota? Explain....

Just pulled the gear selector box off the LeMans. The downshifts have been getting worse the last few days. No metal in oil, it all looks like gears and other mysterious stuff in there... this is my first time inside a transmission. Time to study the shift improvement threads.

Thanks for throwing some classical into the mix. I played piano for many years and played alto and baritone saxophone in high school concert and jazz bands. I often play classical music while working or driving early in the morning. Many an O-dark thirty road trip have started with a big cup of black coffee and one of the most transcendental and numinous works ever composed: Albinoni's Adagio. Jazz was my "gateway drug" it got me into blues, blues-rock, rock, heavy metal, etc. But in modern genres, I tend toward the bands with sophisticated musicianship and intelligent lyrics. Just as many road trips have started on the other end of my musical-appreciation spectrum, with Metallica's Wherever I May Roam. "...and the road becomes my bride."

Congratulations, great machine. It appears to have a center-stand, that's a rare feature.

You are hereby and henceforth banned from riding other motorcycles.

I bet the teeth in Docc's flywheel are wearing out. Mileage: unknown Multiple previous owner habits: unknown Symptoms of failure: it first appeared as slipping under hard acceleration at high speeds. It seems the combined effect of wind resistance and the sudden application of torque were too much for the clutch. I rode for quite a while with it that way - just avoided high-speed roll-ons. The first time it slipped from a standing start I rode it back home gently, parked it, and ripped it out. So - go get some speed and whack the throttle open. If the clutch holds, continue on your merry way. As soon as yours slips, order the parts (plates and springs) - then replace at your convenience.

You had me going there at #7, then I saw the fine print. Great progress. What, if anything, do you have to do to the California crankshaft?

Wow. Somebody actually bid $11,000. That seems like a lot - even with all the extra work and extra parts included.

I think I understand the symptoms better now - you may have water in the clutch fluid. This would give you normal clutch action when cold, then it could start to boil when it gets hot - causing air bubbles and a lack of pressure. New fluid is definitely job #1. Check the fileshare section of this forum for links to download manuals.

My first guess is low fluid level - and since it's a new-to-josh bike which probably has been sitting (given low miles) it's good to just flush it (and all the other fluids) to be sure it's full and fresh before trying anything else. I'm not really sure what's going on in inside the master cylinder, but when I put the new clutch in my LeMans recently, it would not disengage the clutch completely. Then I adjusted the lever position and turned in the push-screw. Now when I pull the clutch lever, it completely disengages (like it's supposed to). I think I'll go ride it now and get a pint of Cherry Garcia...

Welcome. She's just trying to see if you really love her. Give her some attention and tell her she's pretty. When my clutch went bad, I first noticed it at high speeds in top gears (just as you described). When I changed it, I discovered that the springs were much weaker than the new replacement springs. But don't go to springs yet (that's a big job). Start with some simple stuff, such as: Clutch Flush the clutch fluid Look at the adjustments on the clutch lever (one will position the lever further away from the handlebar, another will make the actuator stick out farther into the master cylinder Running How old is the gas? Basic tune/maintenance: Spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, valve adjustment, etc. Get the basics out of the way, then see what's going on.

Oh - you mean I should compare the part numbers for the actual part we are talking about. Brilliant! The part number is same in the 1999, 2002, and 2004 diagrams at Harpers: 01258230 Sorry for the false alarm. Scud

Hmmm... I just looked up the gearshift lever for 1999, 2002, and 2003 on Harper's website. The part numbers are the same (01250830) for all three. The wider one in the picture, without the extended bushing, is from a used part that I got from a member of this forum - who said it was from an early sport. Now I'm doubting that - since the part numbers are the same for all three years. I hope I have not unnecessarily confused the issue.

Hey Chuck - I was just thinking... the shift levers are not the same between the early, red-frame models and the later, black-frame models. I discovered this difference when I bought a used shifter from an early sport and tried to put it on my 2003 LeMans - didn't fit. I don't know what, if any, effect that will have on the part you're making. I think that they will work for any 2002 and later model - since you are testing it on the mighty-mighty-Scura. But compatibility with early models should be verified. Sorry to throw a potential problem in here. Maybe one person with an early sport can test it - so you don't end up "shipping and fondling" incompatible bits. Here are two pics of an early and late shifter side by side. The older one is wider, the newer one has the bushing. I no longer have the early shifter, so cannot take measurements. From the pics, I think the offset between the two surfaces is about the same.

Well, when you promise to make something longer... and the effect is greater power and precision with up and down motion... and it enhances the riding experience...

The secret stash was secret even to you? Oh, the joy of discovery and self-congratulations. e.g. "My past self was so smart to stash away these parts for my present self to find... I simply must uncork a beverage." But, if they did quit, it would be sort of cooler to have the odometer at 99,xxx, rather than 00000. Anybody can get to zero, but a high number on a dead odometer becomes permanent garage art. If there was one more digit (as on most BMWs), this would be a non-issue - cuz you'd get to see 100,000.