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Fantastic. Can I use that? It would be very often useful to "explain" the behaviour of sound equipment.

"30/1000 of an inch, plus or less 10/1000 of an inch"

Exactly. The sensor itself is an analog device, sending an alternating current waveform. The AC voltage, at a given RPM, will increase or decrease nearer or farther. The waveform is seen as a simple +/- by the digital electronic device served by the sensor. There is a minimum voltage to trigger the electronics (the measure of which escapes me at the moment) and once they're triggered, they really don't care how much extra is there. If the sensor gets too far away, such as if an ABS sensor gets debris or loose wheel bearings that increase the distance to reluctor, the voltage becomes marginal or intermittent to trigger the electronics so you get...the scientific term is 'intermittent wonkiness' I think.

As far as I understand it, no "tuning" effects. Either it works satisfactorily, or it doesn't, i.e. under a particular value, the pulse is too weak. Above that, it is enough, but "more" doesn't make it better. The ECU sees the pulse, or it doesn't. What is that in sensible units?

Oh and this is for @swooshdave

So, as long as they are in the specified range, the trigger has the same outcome? In other words, there would be no "tuning" effects to setting it close versus furthest out in the specified range?

Well... well. Yes, they induct by the square of the distance. This obviously means they generate the strongest signal set to zero; actually some ABS sensors are set this way, push them in against the reluctor and the bearing clearance pushes them out just enough not to rub. They are designed particularly for this. However, the electronics that the sensor serves are perfectly happy at anything less than about .060" (generally) and .030" guarantees that they won't rub the reluctor and self-destruct.

So.... it induces or it doesn't? Not like you can get more or less induction by setting it closer or further?

We spent a week in Athens, then another week visiting Greek islands on an MSC cruise. The ship also stopped for a day in Bari, Italy. Lots of scooters, and cycles, even a few Guzzi.

Sorry for my absent reply, I've been in Greece the past few weeks! It sounds like you have this covered now, no?

If memory serves, (Bendix factory brakes training) *all* simple coil-type inductive sensors are set at .030" +or- .010". So that's supported by this spec.

Well, the oil pressure light...definitely needs investigation. I know you have the means to test the switch, thread it into something and check action with air pressure. If the switch passes the testing, you're into the bottom end somewhere- hopefully just the oil filter loose? My first thought with the sputter stall was 'cam sensor fail'. If it was very hot, such as idling in traffic when it quit, then cooled and rode home in the wind, consider it. Monitor with heat in mind if future similar events. In reality, any failure in about 70% of the connections in the harness could cause this. Relays, ignition switch, run/sidestand/clutch switches, fuel pump connections, battery terminals... My 'Sport was hinkey half the time until I literally swept the entire harness from front to back with DeOxit, cleaned the inside of the ignition switch, added the extra grounds, et al. Now it simply works as intended.

I would bypass the sidestand switch (for test purposes only) and make sure it is working.

That depends on the fault. Assuming it did have something to do with that switch, the bike ran again later, so it can be considered an intermittant fault. I gather the bike was rolling when it died. So if the switch was cutting in and out, the momentum could easily have "push started" the bike a couple of times before it finally died. All crystal ball stuff from here, but it seems plausible to me. Since you worked on and around the switch recently, and now the motor is cutting out, I would definitely have another look at it and make sure it went back together properly.

You have two issues to address; As Roper,Tinus , I and others will verify , this light is not "for entertainment purposes only". Replace the oil press. switch and go looking. Remove the manhole cover and take off the filter and inspect the seal on the filter. Install a new filter / oil. Get this filter SNUG. when you install the manhole cover push against the pan and rotate it like you are removing it . When it clicks , stop turning and tighten it. This way you will not cross thread it. Install a new o-ring on the cover too. The majority of engine failures come down to loose oil filters. these are inside the oil pan and impossible to know if they are tight/loose until something bad happens. we don't want you to have a 500lb piece of junk in your yard. It is not easy coming up w/another engine.

The factory manual gives 0.6-1.2mm clearance or 0.023-0.047" clearance. IDK what the hot setup is. I would think the 0.7mm clearance is the best. You want the tooth to be in the center of the bore when measuring this clearance.

My experience with putting the S/S out whilst still in gear is that depending on how quick you put it out, it is not an instant-kill but more of a sputter-and-die. PLEASE check your oil level

Been a few years but I've got his email as will.creedon@gmail.com Hope that helps

G'day Mick Yep, back in 2011 the gap on mine was 1.4mm and reduced to 0.7mm! Cheers

Could be, but it could also be a shortcut that illuminates the light shortly. I thought the info of the rerouted wire should need some attention.

If you rerouted the wire of the side stand, you might check ifnit is not stuck and somewhat dismantled under the generator cover. Dont ask how I came up with this idea.

IDK what brand relays you have but I would consider replacing them with quality Omron relays. The oil light situation: tomorrow first thing , check your oil level. If it is good , you will want to consider an oil / filter change. use a premium filter and good oil. If you feel confident about your skill level , install a Roper plate. a very important part. That oil light doesn't accidentally come on ! AFA the fuel pump goes , they are usually good or bad...no in between. The only other problem I have seen is the fuel will start leaking from the electrical terminals. If at all possible use an OEM pump. It is the correct dimension such as diameter , length, everything. Unless someone has an aftermarket part # that will fit perfectly ?

Is there current contact information for Will Creedon? I may have one of his chips installed and have some questions.

oil could be bad news. Once happened to me with fuel starvation. I was riding in hot weather. Going for fill up but the pump was broken. Hit that starter to go to another pump, impatient and didn't let the pump prime. No start. I tried several time and no go. Pushed bike to another pump, filled the tank, and finally started.