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Enjoying myself with the 1164ccm, rear part cleared. CF fender and a homemade protection plate fitted. Woud anybody know what fork holders are mounted? Moving forward on the bike. And what was inside the tranny when doing the Chuck spring [emoji85]. None of the metal parts, bits was hardened, gears undamaged The ss bolt, how the H ? Tranny worked fine, but she was charging 18V, so not many km this season. Beliveing tranny had plenty of Molycote, took some to clean the level glass. Taking care of that in hibernation time, and will she come back to a Greenie? Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

Sounds like my experience. I thought the filter material was breaking up. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/20282-fuel-injector-cleaner-yea-or-nea/?do=findComment&comment=229694

...and why to verify your source; these are not 'Chinese copies' these are *Counterfeit* in Bosch packaging, 'made in Germany'. I once ran across a Chinese website advertising counterfeit name-brand packaging. I had a cousin in Customs and Immigration who clued me in to how bad counterfeiting is in the U.S. market.

Those will probably Morph from 90 degree Barrels to 60 Degree Barrels in a couple years

Hard to believe those are only 750cc. They look more like 750cc each . . .

Actual operating spray pattern for green IW-031 Marelli injectors.

Here's an old advertisement that I hadn't seen before. Was this from an old catalog?

Yes, ok. Took a ride. All the gears work. Shifter IS totally different, stiffer, crisper. I need to adjust the position of the shift lever up a bit for my foot, but other than that its a big improvement!

I was so close to buying this... several years ago. Down south somewhere Alabama, Miss maybe..

You're trying to source a carbon fiber starter cover? If you're in need of a plain-Jane OEM plastic cover, I took mine off my 2000 V11. The previous owner painted it dark grey. You're welcome to it if it is something you can use.

Well, we are THE V11 LeMans forum. RedFrameTrash , like me, are just lucky to have a place to park back in the corner . . .

Some days, well, test your patience. Just putting the bike back together after the 'incident'. Fairing bracket straightened, mirrors in house, paint finished. Thanks to Curtis Harper for digging out an old 'Sport oil cooler someone deleted...(?) Started the bike- it started hard and ran like crap. Funny, it was fine when I took it off the trailer and put it in the garage. I had noticed that the 'feel' had fallen off a bit during the SSR, but so minor I thought I was just being paranoid. So I took the tank off and dug into the electrics as a matter of course. The left plug cap had been broken- a Parts Unlimited spare, non-resistor. I replaced it with a new NGK 5k ohm unit. I saw the plug wire was solid core copper, so I tested everything to discover that the NGK plug cap on the right side was completely open-circuit, the resistor blown completely out. So it got replaced too. That evened things up, the bike ran equally poorly on both cylinders. Starting not easily, idle smooth but doesn't take throttle well and backfires/misfires. New plugs no help. Voltage at all points good... then there's that darn cam speed sensor. The one in the bike when I bought it was dead, and this one has something just short of 20k on it. But it runs, right? So I test, and find it's not open circuit; test more, and find inconsistent switching. Dangit. Who has the sensor shims? I'm zero clearance which may have contributed to an early death, though the witness marks are very light. For your entertainment, testing a hall effect 3-wire sensor.

Through the entire V11 range, a "Sport" was delivered with no fairing of any kind and the instruments/headlamp are fork mounted. Two special exceptions are the 2001 Rosso Mandello (a "special edition Sport" with factory flyscreen/"quarter fairing", still fork mounted) and the 2003-2004 Café Sport that came with handlbars and frame mounted flyscreen/headlamp/instruments (like the Ballabio and Coppa Italia).

Rebuilt the slightly dragging rear Brembo on my '03 Le Mans Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

I use Marvel Mystery Oil (US brand, a century old) in the fuel periodically because it removes carbon, varnish, and white deposits. This appears to be actual rust, probably from the PO never changing the filter. In any case, it never washed out with anything I tried, and there's plenty in the injector screens as well.

I wonder if some 2-stroke oil would reduce corrosion in those parts? It could leave a protective film behind as fuel evaporates. I tried this on two daughter's cars when they went overseas for a year, with no ill effects

so true docc. Clearly '02 config. I had to check the archives. I labeled it '03, makes me think it was advertised that way or . Anyway... carryover color? one of my faves! Doesn't @antmanbee have one of these?

Since Classifieds disappear after 60 days, probably best to put this source in Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts:

While I'm this far apart and waiting, I'll have my injectors cleaned and perhaps buy a new/rebuilt set for the shelf depending on price and time. I found these guys and an interesting table of injector data including our green IW-031. https://www.injectorrx.com/fuel-injector-cleaning-and-flow-testing-service/fuel-injectors/fuel-injector-data/weber-fuel-injectors/

This is particularly interesting since you only moved the position from the inner to outer hole, effectively changing from what would have been the furthest position on the original shift arm to the Lucky Phil derived extended position . . .

No, as I explained to Purloined in my pm, it was to compensate for foolishness,lol. My Lemans only has 7K kms, so everything is mint on it. When I tuned it, I deviated quite a bit from the original settings but I used the PO's set up with the tank vent T'd off to the 2 vacuum ports on the throttle bodies, it ran like a top, but it developed such a major "tank suck" issue, I could barely get the tank lid open to refuel, and once I did the tank sucked in so much and released violently, I was very lucky I didn't crack the paint,,, then the bike would hardly run. I cured the whole issue by cleaning the tank vent holes & following Docc's recommendation and capped the vacuum ports at the TBs and ran a separate tank vent line under my starter cover,,,, it now runs like a champ,,, no tank suck,,, but with one too many lines under it, the old brittle crappy plastic in the starter cover,, cracked and kept cracking,,, I took it off to preserve it. Long term game plan, would be to reinforce whatever starter cover goes back on there with fibreglass/bondo as a backing and spacers and longer bolts to prevent the issue in the future. It looks like Purloined is coming to my rescue

you can always do a carbon fiber wrap - unless, of course, this is about the weight savings...

And, now, we have this dedicated, archived topic about the V11 Sport beyond the debut 1999-2001 RedFrame (+ Rosso Mandello) ShortFrame V11. Once upon a time, I thought the V11 "Sport" ceased to exist after the short frames. Then the "Carryover Sport" showed up. (Thank you, @gstallons!) Eventually, LongFrame/LongTank Sport (like @Kostarika's 2004) have been revealed. Maybe the rarest of the last Generation V11? A 2003 LongFrame/LongTank Sport in full monochromatic red? Sign me up! I'll deal with the sketchy front cross-over pipe later . . . (Dang! That says "NAKED" three times! But are there really any 2003 "late configuration" V11 Sport? Or are all 2003 "Sport" the 2002 specification ("Carryover"/transition model) ?

got mine from Harpers....

Rumor has it @docc is barring all of the Sport owners on the forum for not actually owning a true Le Mans.

Erm. Any contact information? I have a lot of scrap nylon I've been trying to find use for.

So, the short arm on the gearbox can be rotated to another groove to set the shift lever angle (I like mine as low to the Frame Side Plate as possible, the the connector rod length is used to get the "right angles" (or close them), before setting the pivot tension/play. Make sure all the fasteners/ pinch bolt/ lock nuts are tight and the pivot bolt is cleaned/polished/greased (I use BelRay Waterproof Grease there since it is down in the road spray).

Ah, yeah, using the upper hole is the idea. Might require a slight change to the connector rod length. I also "tune the shifter" to bring it within a couple millimeters of the Frame Side Plate on the downstroke in every gear. Also, the tension on the pivot can be adjusted by turning the pivot bolt to the desired tension and locking it in place with the inboard lock nut. My shifter still had too much wiggle/ play for my tastes, so I shimmed the lever in the pivot space.

at this point in "LeMans" evolution I'd say it's just a fairing and a sticker. I see why a Sport is a Sport but I don't understand why the earlier spines, the faired 1100 SportI, Spot, etc were not called LeMans. What were they waiting for, the '02 version? My BMV has no LeMans designation so my LM is titled "Sport" ....and the very early LM's had a quarter fairing.

See #7 and 8. Don't forget a new sealing o-ring. Mine had a nice relief in the crank end of the spacer to fit an additional o-ring for insurance.

Going thru everything, and some Luigi upgrades on the 99 Dynotech.de V11. Greenie at born. Will be busy for a while. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

Yes, this is in NorCal. I've been to this dealer while traveling this area for work. Nice shop, nice people. When traveling, I always search for moto shops to visit! I always need another sticker and t-shirt.

https://www.egpowersports.com/ ? ?

New rear light and indicators. Much better than the set up from the previous owner

You need to Google/YouTube for a spray pattern , you should see a conical mist . the more fine / finer spray pattern is what you want . The finest spray is what you are after .