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Eh, the forum has set the limit on my "likes&thanks " for today. So, back home from a "true" SpineRaid, and what an honor to attend. Welldone @Joe and @kalev11 ! What an outstanding effort! [pictured,L>R, Bill Hagan/ Joe ]

. . . plus the people, and places, that give us inspiration . . .

If a "SpineRaid" includes proper "TechSessions" . . .

She was born a Greenie, yes l like Greenie's. The Dynotech.de edt soon ready, waiting for a c built seat. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

It was great to see old friends and make new ones ! The group from Michigan were super cool with great equipment.

Found a couple more pics from the SpineRaid. Although I had the "idea" everyone contributed to the cause and turned the weekend into a epic time.

Only at a SpineRaid . . . Bellissima !

Welcome back @docc, hope you’ve had a good raid!

Thanks mate I have a Shendengan Mosfet Reg/Rec with another earth too which would help by the sounds..? As we have a bloke here in the Guzzi club who has had an electrical fire on his Tonti Le-mans many moons ago it's something I'm not keen to replicate! Don't know the cause of that though. Will consider one when time comes... Cheers folk's

I've been away for the weekend for a V11 meet-up. Both @Revilo's posts and the @audiomick's Ford fuel line connectors should be their own topics, IMHO, rather than in this menagerie thread. I am quite busy catching up, but will try and focus those topics ASAP . . . [edit]:

Josh, thx for making it to the inaugural spring KSR! The V7 Sport looked and ran awesome 😎.

Class begins……

Haha! Glad I wasn't the only one!

Voltage shouldn't exceed ~14.5 at any rpm. You can test at the battery terminal with the bike running. Idle voltage will be 12.9+ rev the bike. If you see 15+ as the revs climb , shut er down and don't run it until regulator is replaced. Worth confirming regardless which route you go with replacement instruments

I repainted the tach needle with some orange acrylic paint and sealed the tach back up using a clamp to hold it down and lightly tapping all around the bezel with the rounded side of a ball peen hammer. Went to reinstall it on the bike only to notice I put the face plate on upside down... So I opened it back up again, rearranged the face plate to the correct way and sealed up it a second time... I replaced all of the relays for preventative maintenance. I'm not sure how to check the proper function of the voltage regulator, but I did confirm that the 30amp fuse looks good with no signs of overheating and that I am getting the expected signals through the tach wires. At this point I am officially giving up on getting the tach working and will continue with my original plan of ordering Speedhut replacements. On the positive side, I played with the routing of the speedometer cable and noticed a significant reduction in the amount of needle wobble. Its still not exactly stable, but definitely allows me to make a better estimate of how fast I am going!

Good move changing out the red valve covers, looks better now.

IMHO that's a good way to go, I don't know what's in the V11 but the Sporti's Ducati Energia Regulator I'm told is a Series type (thanks @Kiwi_Roy) I've also seen reports of guys installing shunt type regualtors and have not had any problem, so I guess you pays your money and takes you choice. Ducati recorded quite a few fires and melting looms with LiFe batteries and the Reg/Recs on those bikes were known to be weak. The common fix was a Shindengen Mosfet Reg/Rec replacement and I've not heard of any problems when using them @audiomick advice also is useful, the problem with them overheating is because of the low internal resistance, meaning they can pull or push large amounts of current, so an undersized or marginal battery doesn't sound like a wise move.

With an over-voltage failure like that, watch your relays for signs of damage and malfunction . . .

To be fair, a record cold temp at my place is only -8, and even so I'm too soft to ride in freezing weather. The bike alternator keeps the battery charged. The picture shows that the battery needs 20mm packing on each side to stop it rattling about.

Lesson #1 is? How to set TPS with a Casper cable while simultaneously admiring a fleet of V11’s!!

Check voltage regulator, main fuse and relays. Also check all your grounds. My tach died by the same method, wires detached from posts with some burning around the solder joints. I don't have the hands of a surgeon and my resoldering attempts were unsuccessful. A bad ground likely fried my Voltage Regulator. I was returning from a long ride when the tach died, when I got home and pulled the seat I had 18 volts across the battery terminals and a melted 30A fuse! Fortunately I didn't incur any other electrical damage and my ecu survived. Grounding issues are now fixed, voltage in check and I'm getting the 'right' frequency off the tach wire but haven't put a replacement tach in to confirm. Good luck!

OMG , I was lookin' at this half asleep earlier (last night or this morning) and thought it was a spark plug wire end !

This weekend at Red Mile.... https://www.americanflattrack.com/events/2023/view/red-mile-2023

Hmm... I believe this discussion is about fuel line QD connectors... not spark plug boots. You might wanna fix that title @docc, but maybe not until you get a good night rest...

Look at this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery#Safety The batteries that are sold for automotive use, i.e. also the ones as replacement for lead-acid motorcycle batteries, are all LiFePO4 They can be considered safe. The ones that have made it in to the various media reports because of fires in laptops and aeroplanes and so on were, as far as I know, other types of lithium battery. I have heard of a couple of instances of a LiFePO4 battery overheating. One in particular was in an SP 1000 Cafe Racer. I've seen the bike; it is a nice custom, but I reckon the bloke was counting the bucks when he did it. I assume the charging system was original, and not renovated. The battery was, I reckon, too small. I believe it was around 4 Ah. . Probably chosen more for price than anything else. Note that the battery overheated and started letting out the magic gray smoke, but did not catch fire. My theory is, the battery was undersized. It could start the bike, but was fairly discharged as a result. When the bike got running, the battery was pulling heaps of current out of the charging system, and getting warm as a result. Maybe the voltage was a bit high, too. The conclusions I drew from the story were, first, make sure you know what your charging system is delivering, and that it is ok for the lithium battery, and secondly, don't choose a battery that is too small, i.e. not the one that can just manage to turn the starter with no reserves. That way, the battery won't be sucked flat by the start process, and wont be trying to draw as much power to get charged back up. The theory is based in part on what is written here: https://www.silent-hektik.de/SH_LiMa.htm I've got one of those alternators in the V35 Imola (it makes a lovely whirring noise like the blower on the black Ford coupe in the first Mad Max movie...). The battery is still a Gel lead-acid one, but I reckon I'll be putting a lithium battery in there the next time it needs a battery. This is the first bit of the text under the banner "Technische Details" etc. . So, once again, I'm convinced the LiFePO4 batteries are safe to use, but a little more attention to the charging system is neccesary, and one shouldn't pinch the pennies when choosing the battery. Buy one that is big enough to have a bit of reserve.

Got a Shorai in the 1100 Sport bike, I used it due to space constaints and it works fine. The only problem I sometimes have is going from store to charge, I get repeated failures on the charger and I've got to reset it 10 or more, which gets tedious. It always gets there eventually. I don't ride at low temps so cannot comment on that but it's well documented. As said the batteries require balance charging to prolong life and anything longer than a few weeks off the road, I put the battery into Storage mode. LiFe give greater CCA but have reduced Ah capacity and I also balance charge it with a small hand held unit Shorai sent me. LiFe so I'm informed also prefer a slightly lower charging voltage, but my expereince so far is positive

Rick’s Garage-mahal thx Rick for the awesome ride back to home base.

Dang it, gonna miss class again. Needed this one to graduate!

Yes, it's the switch.

Hi everyone, I have recently acquired a 2000 V11 sport and it has they typical bouncy speedometer and non-working tachometer as many of these Veglia Borletti gauges do. I’ve spent many hours reading the many threads on this topic here in the forum and on other forums as well. This research has led me to the decision to replace the Veglias with the Speedhuts. HOWEVER, since I have made that decision, I figured I have nothing to lose by attempting a repair on the instruments and documenting what I find. Also adding some pictures along the way for anyone else who may want to attempt this in the future. Since the speedometer kind of works I went in on the tach first. These are the threads that I found most useful: 2004 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/3282-another-tach-failure/ 2007 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/12441-open-up-your-veglia-and-close-it-back-again/ Step 1: I played ‘round robin’ with the relays to rule out a faulty relay. I cleaned the relay contact points with Deoxit as I went. Nothing changed. Step 2: I opened up the instruments housing and tested the signals with a multimeter. I displayed a 12V on the red/black power line. I displayed an increase in frequency while turning the throttle on the yellow/black line. This tells me that the electronics are fine and that the issue is mechanical within the tachometer. Step 3: I removed the tachometer from the dash by removing the three spade connections and by snipping the little black ground wire for the light bulb. I have the early white faced version with a date stamp of Jan. 19, 2000. Step 4: I removed the bezel by prying it up using one of those little screwdrivers which are pre-bent. After about 10 minutes of this I had to wrap the screwdriver with some tape as it was really hurting my hand. After about 10 more minutes I was really wishing I had just cut the unit in half like so many others did but I was already in it so I pushed on. After about a total of 30 minutes of prying I finally had the bezel off! Continued in next post...

Randy, I’m 100% behind your decision, roads look amazing in every direction.

Randy, it’s hard to replicate the perfect location & accommodations of The Lodge at Tellico. A garage isn’t necessary but seems to be a piece of the Spine Raid puzzle.

I saved S602 to the list, above. Beautiful pic, @roktbox!

Talked with Joe last night -- who was having his own 4-wheel travel adventure at the time. As I told him, my planned conflicting trip to the PNW has been cancelled/postponed as a result of my riding bud deciding that he should break his arm! So selfish. Anyway, as the old saw goes, "it's an ill wind ..., etc." So, I am back to attending. Joe said that my readmission will only cost me this: After this event, I'll ride back home on Sunday/Monday, and head back to Kentucky's Daviess County on Thursday for the Mutton Run! On the bright side, too, I'll get to see ailing Aunt Wilma again ... probably for last the time, at least on this planet. But, as Kathi will be in Italy , I can play. Have to figure out some way to keep the hummingbirds fed, and the grass will grow to the point I'll need a herd of goats to keep it mowable, but I don't want to miss the fun. Thinking that I'll ride the V7 III for Act I at Dale Hollow, then the Griso for mutton's Act II of My Old Kentucky Home on a Guzzi. Bill

Y'all-boys have shamed me into this. I could even hear my own voice saying, "Decent Tune-up " . . . [Real-time image, not a "reference" from the archive . . .] > Eighteen days out and I already know that Waddington hates me . . .

If I do my math right, and I could get that last few hundred miles out of this tire, it would mean getting the last $25US from it. I'd give $25 right now to never worry about it again for the whole ride.

Let's say that image is "for reference only." I would rather (never again) "lead to the creation of a problem on the road ." Waddington has hunted me down before . . .

Four weeks out and no one has their V11 apart? Do I have to go out on this limb myself . . .

In the most insidious way, this thread has made it firmly back to fish . . .

I really wasn't sure this whole fishing thing wasn't off topic from the start. But I forgot we are talking Kentucky. . .

I’ll bring the beer 🍻

Bill P.S. I am still licensed to practice law in Kentucky, but as an officially retired Old Flatulent and "Senior Counselor," I'm exempt from paying bar dues. If any of you end up wearing an orange suit, I can return to "active duty" for your court appearance and would only charge you those bar dues. Good to know we will have good legal counsel at the spring Kentucky Spine Raid.