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True to the purpose of a "SpineRaid ", this recent Kentucky gathering gave ample opportunity for direct comparisons. This V11 showed signs of the seat riding on/ compressing the battery (never good!). Check, also, for signs that your battery hold-down strap is being compressed or cut into . . . The "Battery Basket Drop" (moving the front mounting tabs beneath the subframe) alleviates this. The height difference change is substantial. Some V11 require a little rounding/reshaping of the tabs. It also occurs to me that a lowered battery makes the terminals a bit easier to get to.

I’m very thankful for all the generosity and wit by all at the KSR. What a great group! I hope to do it again next year.

It's there to makes us nuts. At least we'll have a reason. Some people are nuts and nobody knows why . . . When this was discussed before, I put a little silicone across there to keep water out. Pretty sure it just makes the TPS harder to adjust and any water that gets in there will just cook out at operating temperature. The TPS is not open under there, so is not exposed and cannot be sprayed with cleaner or DeOxit. I did put some corrosion inhibitor on the upper throttle body shaft and its retainer at the last TPS change.

Pretty cool to ride with Josh on his "cruddy old bus bike ." Makes me proud my Guzzi says "Sport" on it . . .

Awesome. Wish I'd been able to make it; Try again next year.

From very recent experience, be careful getting DeOxit on the soft rubber seals (like the one on the TPS) or the ones connecting ECU's on later CARC bikes as the chemicals cause the rubber to swell, which then get pinched when snapping the connector back in place, and then frequently cause a tear or not completely seated seal.

Thanks docc. I've had that recommended to me as a "must do". From the same person came the recommendation, while one is messing around in the general area, to put a thickish washer under the tab at the back of the tank. The purpose of this is to provide a little more clearance between the tank and the sidecovers. Apparently there can be contact there, with associated wear and tear on the expensive plastic bits. I haven't done either of those things yet, but a closer look at the bike confirmed that both would seem to be a good idea.

Same as the faders and pots on audio equipment. Sooner or later a point is reached where they are just worn out, and must be replaced. For those wishing to have a go at rejuvenating a tiring TPS, this would be the appropriate Caig product, I believe: https://caig.com/fader-f-series/ That is, according to the blurb, specifically formulated for exactly that application, i.e. cleaning the contacts in a pot or fader. I would be very reluctant to put the D-series oder G-series contact cleaner in a pot. I'd be afraid it might just eat away the contact strip. Caig also offers a grease that looks like it should be suitable for the application https://caig.com/deoxit-grease-landing/

This got me thinking. The conventional wisdom has been that the TPS cannot be sprayed/treated/cleaned, but that referred to when it is attached, in place. I'm experimenting with my old TPS on the bench and can get Caig DeOxit past the grey rotational part. Not sure if it gets to the "wiper" . . . (Trying to discern if the progression of resistance can be affected.)

Just mingle and blend in......

I'm just grateful that everybody enjoyed their visit to the Upper Cumberland. All are welcome back to Moto Brimstone (haven't got my sign finished) anytime!

Short frame V11 1999-2001 (Sport and Rosso Mandello). I am not sure a cracked gearbox mounting boss has ever been reported on a braced Long Frame 2002-2005.

I always shoot some contact cleaner into that gap too. Next time I'll throw salt over my shoulder.

I like the Garage-Mahal

I opened my TPS, and cleaned the inside with IPA. I reassembled it with a smear of lightweight white lithium grease. It was slightly better, but not really worth the effort. The contact wipers wear the resistor film, and nothing can save or restore that. I bought a new TPS.

Never wanting to miss out on a good preventative medicine tip, I also sprayed some Deoxit on my TPS connection. For the first time I noticed that little open gap at the front of the TPS and body as shown in the attached photo. I'm assuming this is by design, but seems to be a place water can easily enter. Any thoughts on why this gap exists? Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

After five years of chasing oil leaks, I found many contributors, but finally had to address the eight (8) leak sources in the clutch area. So nice to have these all buttoned up!

Well, the first [KSR] is in the books and what a GREAT gathering it was. I believe the head count was around 12, a good showing I thought. Three of us Michiganders trailered four bikes down to Kentucky (Norge, V 11, 14 Custom, and a Harley ). We had a nice ride Friday afternoon that included a stop at the dam on the lower end of Lk. Cumberland and then back to the State Park Lodge restaurant for dinner with a wonderful view of Dale Hollow Reservoir. Saturday it rained but we made the best of it by having a Tech Session held in the garage at the Park rental house that Joe and others stayed at. I brought my two lap tops with Guzzi Diag loaded, along with the diagnostic cables, break out harness, and multi-meter. After a little back and forth with the hook-ups we got connected and were able to read the ECU's on mine, Joe's and Kales V 11's. Very interesting to be able to read some of the sensors and the varying CO values. Tech Session was a success. Big thanks to Bill for getting the tab on Saturdays dinner, also for handing out commemorative 2023 Guzzi tyre pressure gauges. Thanks Doc for the air screw O-rings and the specialty (cool) front torque arm bolt. Thanks to Gene and his very top end Snap-On Diagnostic code reader(he cleared trany codes on my truck) run's great, and Kale for a complete set of wheel bearings. Great Big Thanks to Joe and everyone else who came, contributed and participated in this wonderful event. I was truly gifted. SKIP

this came with the RAM clutch/flywheel assembly. it is for the five speed trans. it is unnecessary for the six speed. it's not even good for a spare if you want it post: "I want it" in this thread. First post gets it. I'll pay shipping continental US. shoot me a message with your address after you post here. if you live in a foreign land you can pay shipping thanks cdr

I use something on all electrical connections . The Deutch connectors on stuff at work are a bear , I use Motorcraft electrical grease or Lubriplate 105 white grease on everything .

THAT'S the way to represent at DGR!

Ah-HA! That's why my seals are torn and the connectors are hard to put together!

Interesting! I had noticed wear on my seat pan so I "trimmed" (2each 0.375" holes) accordingly to alleviate pressure on the L-bracket post on my Odyssey. I did not notice any wear on the battery strap/seat pan area but will now double check it and give consideration to lowering the battery basket. Thanks! Art

Enter: @swooshdave's V11 Sport at 13:35 . . .

That time we spent together moved at the speed of light. It was over way too quickly . I enjoyed every second of it !

I found a post in the german forum on the subject. Here is (slightly edited) what DeepL made of it: The translation is a bit rough, but one can get the gist of it I think. The "old cam" is the one that was used for many years in the big block Guzzis. I don't know if the V11 still used it, but the basic principles of the text still apply. The text is a quote in a post from someone else than me, i.e. third hand or so. Nevertheless, I know who was being quoted. As far as I know, he studied motor engineering, so he probably knows what he is talking about.

I thought a lot about retaining the original look to the gauges. But my V11 already has a number of customizations and I know I will never sell it as a show piece. So I'm just going to go ahead and make it mine. Since the bike is black with the red frame and porkchops, I'm actually thinking of using this color scheme with the Guzzi eagle printed in there

It was great to see old friends and make new ones ! The group from Michigan were super cool with great equipment.

There you go, that looks like us! Lots of the individual wire seals available, but nothing for the interconnector seal? https://www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/t/te-connectivity-amp/amp-superseal-ip67-connectors

I was in my garage briefly today, and had a look. I saw a hose, about half an inch thick, that goes in to the crankcase vertically just in front of the end of the crankcase before the clutch bell housing starts. Very, very oily. I think we're on the right track.

This: Seen looking forward from the left, airbox removed: Frame plate seen from the right, looking up past the throttle rod: Red Spine Frame shown from the bottom, attachment tab is the smaller, further forward (to the right in the image):

https://www.motivcycleworks.com/ Your profile says an '01: contact Don and get the bellhousing bracket. Don't let the tranny crack like mine did. I'm sure I paid for the r&d for the bracket. Tell 'em John sent ya.

Corsa Technic may be. Cheers Tom.

www.connectorexperts.com I think is the place ?

And , thanks for the o-rings for the throttle air bypass screws ! I sent you a PM about the fish oil and about the balance too .

1998 Moto Guzzi CENTAURO- WOW https://www.ebay.com/itm/225581202324?hash=item3485affb94%3Ag%3ApicAAOSw0ElkZRcW&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4PsIHy2mAr7cBYdvooSDdWd8wxOTMtCnmoxjgzobrkkSJrB8BhOum3rtDLSFwJE7A0xcWzEJnJp47Q%2BsfVsGXEUjnVUGpELh%2Ba8s8H3N6VQ6ivL%2BihSjQfAyoakGzN2ZPfU5zGKoMuXutMhcTTEdsOP4JFdcq0fXx8BkCUatt%2FYKDyMOcPVYSwgxFevBEBbLkrcS5N5fHIW2gPQKIVx0QeMT3Rv5RDGH%2B948%2BrCmkQUtQpr4rpzUzate8F3r7smoQBXT7kK%2FAjq%2BnLGUqtIbcdAyt5kzW%2FXenYE2vhyaN9uI|tkp%3ABk9SR9yeoOuJYg&LH_ItemCondition=3000|1000|2500

Sweet baby Jesus https://www.ebay.com/itm/235016050748?hash=item36b80c583c%3Ag%3At44AAOSwf2NkZVrs&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4HVRBiQqSr6Z%2FFAbkNsNTu3wmOSZVuVx8D5MgzFyXGcph%2B1omeVdW02PPEIlevDSyKPaBN8mOISzSrb6nEWizAUhv0C6I3y7k%2FOfBiErXr4ZgOOOEh8qnItEnE4a2%2BHyFNibasMLxM8Uj9ewQ0PDh0JvKrKT4vG2shtg3MhzuVtWE1l%2BT72Uqkcp9vVeyM4ZvLIVEHLPoYvx2F2%2BrHaF%2FJMkBFA6eg1GwQOwawlXvptb%2BCQ3noTiNd99gxJagw72XtL%2BC%2BxS5HjwcHToyLqhLcKCYTE%2FSadaEOqVXUsdbIRL|tkp%3ABk9SR4jA_OqJYg&LH_ItemCondition=3000|1000|2500

Thanks for the link on the fader series. I didn't know Caig made this product. I will start using this on my vintage audio restoration projects!

It occurred to me that I should perhaps expand a little on the quoted post. The text came in conjunction with some diagrammes of measurements of a cam that the quoted person had made himself. The text should not be understood as a recommendation to always set more clearance than the manufacturer specifies. The recommendation for greater clearance on the old guzzis is based on measurements and empirical trials on that particular motor. It seems that the manufacturer struck a compromise very much in favour of low wear and tear on the valve train and quiet running (i.e. very long ramps on the cam to save stress on the pushrods and rockers...). The recommendation for more valve clearance shifts the compromise towards a bit more valve train noise, less thermic stress for the valve seats, somewhat better performance (at least theoretically), and perhaps a little more stress for the valve train.

https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DsaFWZNIIs7w&data=05|01||ecd24a768bf2458bf8a908db5b3fde81|84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa|1|0|638204102089198766|Unknown|TWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D|3000|||&sdata=qbC%2F7BtUuLdVAkyjKmIc6PI3J3AoF7GSwUNPCsYcPVY%3D&reserved=0 Link to great video [You Tube] OVM 05/21/23

Yes, that has just jumped to the top of the list. Thanks again.

Thanks, Tom. I didn't know that the breather system might be a potential culprit here. I'll have a closer look at that. Also @docc thanks for the link to that thread on the subject.

I might have missed something here, but the the breather house, a clean bill of health ? I use the Shin Etsu when putting a new one on, and easy to fit on. Rubbish rubber, time will tell. Cheers Tom.

well not so much. I took it out to meet a fellow Guzzi rider and rode 60 miles one way, started to rain. Got a few backfires and a couple of skips/surges. After lunch, started to rain again. Started the bike and went for 50 ft, bike died altogether. Cranked but no fire. Played musical relays- looked dusty in there (?). Bike ran like a train all the way home. Got home and got the contact cleaner.

. . . plus the people, and places, that give us inspiration . . .

Look at this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery#Safety The batteries that are sold for automotive use, i.e. also the ones as replacement for lead-acid motorcycle batteries, are all LiFePO4 They can be considered safe. The ones that have made it in to the various media reports because of fires in laptops and aeroplanes and so on were, as far as I know, other types of lithium battery. I have heard of a couple of instances of a LiFePO4 battery overheating. One in particular was in an SP 1000 Cafe Racer. I've seen the bike; it is a nice custom, but I reckon the bloke was counting the bucks when he did it. I assume the charging system was original, and not renovated. The battery was, I reckon, too small. I believe it was around 4 Ah. . Probably chosen more for price than anything else. Note that the battery overheated and started letting out the magic gray smoke, but did not catch fire. My theory is, the battery was undersized. It could start the bike, but was fairly discharged as a result. When the bike got running, the battery was pulling heaps of current out of the charging system, and getting warm as a result. Maybe the voltage was a bit high, too. The conclusions I drew from the story were, first, make sure you know what your charging system is delivering, and that it is ok for the lithium battery, and secondly, don't choose a battery that is too small, i.e. not the one that can just manage to turn the starter with no reserves. That way, the battery won't be sucked flat by the start process, and wont be trying to draw as much power to get charged back up. The theory is based in part on what is written here: https://www.silent-hektik.de/SH_LiMa.htm I've got one of those alternators in the V35 Imola (it makes a lovely whirring noise like the blower on the black Ford coupe in the first Mad Max movie...). The battery is still a Gel lead-acid one, but I reckon I'll be putting a lithium battery in there the next time it needs a battery. This is the first bit of the text under the banner "Technische Details" etc. . So, once again, I'm convinced the LiFePO4 batteries are safe to use, but a little more attention to the charging system is neccesary, and one shouldn't pinch the pennies when choosing the battery. Buy one that is big enough to have a bit of reserve.

Rick’s Garage-mahal thx Rick for the awesome ride back to home base.

G'day folk's. I've been reading the March issue of Bike magazine. There's a piece in it about our V11's being classy/ good looking and overlooked... Also reckon's in the UK prices are round the 6 k mark and rising! He does mention the weight and that performance is underwhelming but charming, yet in another part of the mag they test the new Norton 961 and are complimentary about it's 77 horsepower and 230kilo weight! My V11 has roughly 84 at the wheel and weight of about 215 ish dry and I'm pretty happy with it and have no problem with it's weight either on the move or in the garage! Certainly don't want or need a 200h/p sub 200kg guided missile that has to be neutered so mere mortals can ride it to the shops! Anyhoo sounds like more folk are starting to notice our bikes! Cheers