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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/24/2023 in Posts
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True to the purpose of a "SpineRaid ", this recent Kentucky gathering gave ample opportunity for direct comparisons. This V11 showed signs of the seat riding on/ compressing the battery (never good!). Check, also, for signs that your battery hold-down strap is being compressed or cut into . . . The "Battery Basket Drop" (moving the front mounting tabs beneath the subframe) alleviates this. The height difference change is substantial. Some V11 require a little rounding/reshaping of the tabs. It also occurs to me that a lowered battery makes the terminals a bit easier to get to.8 points
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I’m very thankful for all the generosity and wit by all at the KSR. What a great group! I hope to do it again next year.5 points
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It's there to makes us nuts. At least we'll have a reason. Some people are nuts and nobody knows why . . . When this was discussed before, I put a little silicone across there to keep water out. Pretty sure it just makes the TPS harder to adjust and any water that gets in there will just cook out at operating temperature. The TPS is not open under there, so is not exposed and cannot be sprayed with cleaner or DeOxit. I did put some corrosion inhibitor on the upper throttle body shaft and its retainer at the last TPS change.5 points
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Pretty cool to ride with Josh on his "cruddy old bus bike ." Makes me proud my Guzzi says "Sport" on it . . .5 points
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From very recent experience, be careful getting DeOxit on the soft rubber seals (like the one on the TPS) or the ones connecting ECU's on later CARC bikes as the chemicals cause the rubber to swell, which then get pinched when snapping the connector back in place, and then frequently cause a tear or not completely seated seal.4 points
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Thanks docc. I've had that recommended to me as a "must do". From the same person came the recommendation, while one is messing around in the general area, to put a thickish washer under the tab at the back of the tank. The purpose of this is to provide a little more clearance between the tank and the sidecovers. Apparently there can be contact there, with associated wear and tear on the expensive plastic bits. I haven't done either of those things yet, but a closer look at the bike confirmed that both would seem to be a good idea.4 points
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Same as the faders and pots on audio equipment. Sooner or later a point is reached where they are just worn out, and must be replaced. For those wishing to have a go at rejuvenating a tiring TPS, this would be the appropriate Caig product, I believe: https://caig.com/fader-f-series/ That is, according to the blurb, specifically formulated for exactly that application, i.e. cleaning the contacts in a pot or fader. I would be very reluctant to put the D-series oder G-series contact cleaner in a pot. I'd be afraid it might just eat away the contact strip. Caig also offers a grease that looks like it should be suitable for the application https://caig.com/deoxit-grease-landing/4 points
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This got me thinking. The conventional wisdom has been that the TPS cannot be sprayed/treated/cleaned, but that referred to when it is attached, in place. I'm experimenting with my old TPS on the bench and can get Caig DeOxit past the grey rotational part. Not sure if it gets to the "wiper" . . . (Trying to discern if the progression of resistance can be affected.)4 points
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4 points
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I'm just grateful that everybody enjoyed their visit to the Upper Cumberland. All are welcome back to Moto Brimstone (haven't got my sign finished) anytime!4 points
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Short frame V11 1999-2001 (Sport and Rosso Mandello). I am not sure a cracked gearbox mounting boss has ever been reported on a braced Long Frame 2002-2005.3 points
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I always shoot some contact cleaner into that gap too. Next time I'll throw salt over my shoulder.3 points
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Never wanting to miss out on a good preventative medicine tip, I also sprayed some Deoxit on my TPS connection. For the first time I noticed that little open gap at the front of the TPS and body as shown in the attached photo. I'm assuming this is by design, but seems to be a place water can easily enter. Any thoughts on why this gap exists? Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk3 points
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After five years of chasing oil leaks, I found many contributors, but finally had to address the eight (8) leak sources in the clutch area. So nice to have these all buttoned up!3 points
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Well, the first [KSR] is in the books and what a GREAT gathering it was. I believe the head count was around 12, a good showing I thought. Three of us Michiganders trailered four bikes down to Kentucky (Norge, V 11, 14 Custom, and a Harley ). We had a nice ride Friday afternoon that included a stop at the dam on the lower end of Lk. Cumberland and then back to the State Park Lodge restaurant for dinner with a wonderful view of Dale Hollow Reservoir. Saturday it rained but we made the best of it by having a Tech Session held in the garage at the Park rental house that Joe and others stayed at. I brought my two lap tops with Guzzi Diag loaded, along with the diagnostic cables, break out harness, and multi-meter. After a little back and forth with the hook-ups we got connected and were able to read the ECU's on mine, Joe's and Kales V 11's. Very interesting to be able to read some of the sensors and the varying CO values. Tech Session was a success. Big thanks to Bill for getting the tab on Saturdays dinner, also for handing out commemorative 2023 Guzzi tyre pressure gauges. Thanks Doc for the air screw O-rings and the specialty (cool) front torque arm bolt. Thanks to Gene and his very top end Snap-On Diagnostic code reader(he cleared trany codes on my truck) run's great, and Kale for a complete set of wheel bearings. Great Big Thanks to Joe and everyone else who came, contributed and participated in this wonderful event. I was truly gifted. SKIP3 points
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this came with the RAM clutch/flywheel assembly. it is for the five speed trans. it is unnecessary for the six speed. it's not even good for a spare if you want it post: "I want it" in this thread. First post gets it. I'll pay shipping continental US. shoot me a message with your address after you post here. if you live in a foreign land you can pay shipping thanks cdr2 points
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I use something on all electrical connections . The Deutch connectors on stuff at work are a bear , I use Motorcraft electrical grease or Lubriplate 105 white grease on everything .2 points
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Ah-HA! That's why my seals are torn and the connectors are hard to put together!2 points
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Interesting! I had noticed wear on my seat pan so I "trimmed" (2each 0.375" holes) accordingly to alleviate pressure on the L-bracket post on my Odyssey. I did not notice any wear on the battery strap/seat pan area but will now double check it and give consideration to lowering the battery basket. Thanks! Art2 points
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That time we spent together moved at the speed of light. It was over way too quickly . I enjoyed every second of it !2 points
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I found a post in the german forum on the subject. Here is (slightly edited) what DeepL made of it: The translation is a bit rough, but one can get the gist of it I think. The "old cam" is the one that was used for many years in the big block Guzzis. I don't know if the V11 still used it, but the basic principles of the text still apply. The text is a quote in a post from someone else than me, i.e. third hand or so. Nevertheless, I know who was being quoted. As far as I know, he studied motor engineering, so he probably knows what he is talking about.2 points
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I thought a lot about retaining the original look to the gauges. But my V11 already has a number of customizations and I know I will never sell it as a show piece. So I'm just going to go ahead and make it mine. Since the bike is black with the red frame and porkchops, I'm actually thinking of using this color scheme with the Guzzi eagle printed in there2 points
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43rd Annual Show, and always dear in my heart as it was the first time I saw a Greenie in person and I haven't been so insufferable since. Much to the consternation of the president of the club I park my bike on the field but don't register it so it can get voted on. I just do it because I can keep an eye on it. Pit stop on the way home. Also because the green looks fabulous in the sun.1 point
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And it coud be at the front going into the spine. leaving oil all over. Cheers Tom.1 point
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There you go, that looks like us! Lots of the individual wire seals available, but nothing for the interconnector seal? https://www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/t/te-connectivity-amp/amp-superseal-ip67-connectors1 point
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I was in my garage briefly today, and had a look. I saw a hose, about half an inch thick, that goes in to the crankcase vertically just in front of the end of the crankcase before the clutch bell housing starts. Very, very oily. I think we're on the right track.1 point
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Sorry if wrong post, who said interweb is easy. [mod edit:post moved.] Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk1 point
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Great seeing you at the Show, Dave. Thanks for taking photo of my gray V11S!1 point
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Hey, best case, and very likely, scenario is the rear breather hose connection is leaking through there. Worth checking this first!1 point
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Ah, yes, @Martijn851, my 2000 Sport Owner's Manual also shows 0.10/0.15. The "Decent Tune-up" thread uses 0.15/0.20. I wish I could provide the references for that derivation. Seems there have been some expert opinions and experienced outcomes on the looser valve lash . . .1 point
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Since I got the bike out of the shop, it's run a bit better but was getting an off throttle backfire, particular when I downshifted. Since the bike was dyno tuned, I'd thought they might've been just too aggressive with timing and/or fuel. Anyway I was going to take it back. Then Sunday, I took to the DGR ride and the problem got quite bit worse, lots of backfiring and hesitation. Then it occurred to me that it was likely the TPS. I opened the connector and gave it a shot of contact cleaner. Did a ride yesterday and it ran clean and strong1 point
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