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Listen to the original, in a beautiful scenic context, and then the cover by the Graystones... both are... breathtaking in their own respect;

As mentioned, step one to me would be see if I have power at the pump. If I have power at the pump (and ground) and it doesn't run I likely have a pump issue. If I have no power at the pump, it could be a relay issue, a safety issue (like sidestand / neutral switch), or an issue with the ECU not telling the pump to run. No doubt there are other possible reason for the pump to not be told to run. But step one is determine if power is going to the pump and then to ground.

I am happy w/my schizophrenia and I like the voices in my head . This is not a matter of taste This is Jocelyn Wildenstein on 2 wheels

The pinion teeth work 4.125 times harder than the crownwheel teeth. ifi we’re you I’d pull the bevelbox and extract the pinion carrier, it’s a sliding fit in the casting and inspect the teeth. If you did 200 miles with a dry bevelbox I really don’t see how it can of survived. It isn’t so much the ‘Lubrication’ as the cooling that the oil does that protects the teeth. 200 miles, even at moderate speed/loading will of caused massive heat damage to both gears and bearings.

Remove the oil filter and check you haven't left the old filter seal installed. Sometimes the old seal comes off the filter and stays stuck to the filter sealing face on the filter housing and then you screw the new filter in place on top of the old seal and you get leakage as you describe at lower RPMs Phil

If you want to get your German visitors up and running, try this. They love it.

And who could forget...

The + and - terminals to the pump are easy (in very small letters) to access . Find the + terminal and have your favorite friend turn the key on while you are testing the + terminal w/a good test light. This should come on for two seconds and go off. The pump should energize and run. If the pump does NOT run , it is a 99% chance it is the pump. My wiring diagrams are out in the shop so I can't say for sure which relay powers the pump.

Make sure this key will work on the helmet lock and seat unlock before you get real !

I think your plan to fill and test is a good one. That is what I would do, except for the analysis. There is always a tiny fuzz of steel on the magnet, so analyzing the oil probably won't be able to distinguish between normal wear and serious damage. Debris on the magnet are your best tell. Signs of damage are: -Noise; whining, howling, grinding. -debris on drain plug chip detector magnet. -Serious wear can show as clunking between drive/overrun (hard to distinguish from gearbox dog clearance). -Gear teeth turning blue (pinion gear always goes first).

Ok, my bad. I revisited your first post. I read too fast through it the first time. I now understand the order of events. I can't believe you elected to ride over 200 miles home and risk a rear wheel lock up when knowing you had no oil. I thought you found that out when you arrived home. This is where AAA comes to the rescue. Also, I never expected you to find the oil plug, just maybe the slick.

Ah, that's what they're called. Gotta get me some of them.

That would be Vague-liar ®

Is that a registered trade mark?

No other symptoms that could implicate Relay #2 (headlight / horn/ brake light )?

Just to add that Relay 5 has a very hard life powering all that equipment If I were a betting man it's where I'd put my money on which relay will fail first But as @GuzziMoto logical first step is to check for voltage at the pump

A classic relay issue was turn the key on and the fuel pump doesn't run. The wifes V11 did that shortly after she bought her V11. She turned it off at a gas station and when she went to start it the bike would not start. The fuel pump did not run when you turned the key on. Turned out it was the relays. The OP said they swapped relays, but that doesn't mean the issue isn't the relay or the relay base. It could also be the relay is holding out the fuel pump for a reason. I could be wrong but I thought I remembered there being a safety where if the side stand was down and the bike was in gear (i.e. not in neutral) the fuel pump would only run if the clutch was in. But I am not sure and am not in front of one to check. But before you get too far of into the weeds, is there power at the pump? If yes, no point tracing power to the pump. If not, you have to figure out why not.

After looking at the diagram , relay #5 controls the fuel pump , injectors and ign. coils .

This is how it is supposed to look when new....

Here's the schematic I was looking at. Between Relay 5 and wire off of the ECU. Now I just have to find the pump if it is different than my '03.

Me too, but it seems that is compulsory with the Radetsky. It often gets played as an encore at concerts, and as often as not the conductor will actually conduct the audience when to start and stop clapping.

Sort the oil filter out FIRST . You can stack these seals very easy and miss them until it is too late . when you get satisfied and get done get an adapter for the oil pressure switch and plumb in a manual or digital gauge and see what you have AFA pressures hot at idle and at 2000-2500 rpm. Digital is cool but needles show fluctuations better.

Good call. They undoubtedly will. That's also a favorite of Kathi's -- my Perfect Pillion & Polish Princess. I have another version set on my streaming list, so that if I see her heading down to the Moto Grappa, I have it start as she comes in the door! I appreciate you reminding me about this, as it's her birthday today, and when she gets off the phone with her brother, I'll launch that. I am a bit of a party-pooper for her about the clapping thing. I detest it, but, as most good husbands, have learned to keep that to myself as she so obviously exults in that. Bill

Try pressing the cap firmly into the tank, then turning the key. Otherwise, insert the tube of your favorite spray lubricant into the key slot and "fill 'er up." Work the key back and forth gradually increasing force. Perhaps even let it sit overnight and repeat . . . Good luck with the "new-to-you" Le Mans! You're in the right place to get it sorted!

Me too.... I always loved military marches...

You don't need to drop the pan just remove the filter and check the sealing face hasn't got a gasket stuck to it. Phil

1) no strikingly alarming noise so far 2) to be ascertained 3) the Quota transmission was always extremely clunky and noisy. In fact, the gear box noise covers just about everything else. At the beginning, I was worried that something could be wrong. 4) No blueish color, but I could only check the ring gear. Unless I purchase an endoscope with light. I think the oil is going to be the tattle tell. Even if I am optimistic, since I did not feel anything wrong with the gear ring teeth, and they were still greasy.

So, I installed the new drain plug, torqued it at 29.5 Nm. I removed the level and filler plugs. The filler port diameter allows seeing the ring gear. I felt with the finger while spinning the wheel. No burr, no indentation. The teeth were still greasy. I spun the wheel and listened for noises. I filled in with Motul specific for transmission (Pont), and spun the wheel again, listening for a difference. I could not detect any. I re-installed the level and filler plugs, torqued at 24.5 Nm; Tomorrow, I will ride about 5 miles, and drain the oil. I will check the plug for metal burrs, and I will send the oil to the Blackstone lab for analysis. If I was looking for damage on the ring gear, how could I identify it?

You won't find a slick. It will just spit the tiny amount of gear oil the bevel box carries onto the rear wheel/tyre and fling it everywhere in a spray. It won't be like losing a sump plug and dumping 4 or 5 litres of oil on the road. Phil

I used a GoPro on ball that mounts in the hole freed up when I switched to bar-end mirrors. I just got the quad-lock system for phone and like it. Have not been recording any videos lately. But here is one I did a few years ago when I had a Greenie...

well hold now.... its takes all kinds, and if we were all the same it would be rather boring. and look what entertainmnet came from it all in this thread. and pretty funny, moto guzzi owners calling someone else diseased. thats a gem!

I emailed Mike Haven; no reply. This morning, I picked up the oil drain plug from them in Hempstead. I was surprised to get an invoice. Since there was one other customer, and I was on a clock, I did not say anything. I took the invoice. Thereafter, I sent a scan of the MPH invoice that clearly detailed they changed that oil. We shall see what happens.

Did you explain to MPH the reason for the "need" for the drain plug ?

This is likely the parts that have worn out: you need to replace them as a set too. Besides, I do not have a vice nor a bench. Removing the drive pinion is going to be challenging, if I needed to.

Surely there's a law against riding the course in the reverse direction, it's just not right. I'm not going to watch this video, it would do my head in after memorising the course in the racing direction

Oh yeah. 5-6K in the canyons.. Careful, now..be *very* smooth with the throttle as you add it through the turn. Whew! These things sound amazing.. Chuck, Deacon Church of Guzzi

I did 10 miles on I-10 following yesterday's oil change. Here's the oil drain plug; I am going to have to open le pont arrière.