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Hello my friends. I’d just like to update y’all on my progress: Thank you for all of the information, & for putting me on to the oil breather hose issue. I referred to the technical issue also found on this forum, & essentially replicated somebody’s idea about the rubber hose, copper angles, & hose clamps. Sprayed some engine degreaser to remove the leaked oil, & went for a bit of a spin. There is no oil leak from the cooler, & I don’t know if it’s in my head, but the bike seems to be running better than it ever has since I’ve owned it. Now for the decent tune!

Not in my extensive archive of images of bodged attempts at spannering/wrenching and unsuitable for children and those of a nervous disposition I'll see if I can get some pictures later but kind of difficult what with all the other paraphernalia Guzzi managed to insert in there

Ha ha Probably best if those with a nervous disposition steer clear of Guzzi ownership.... Cheers

@audiomick Good information! many thanks! Guys, we already have one confirmation from Germany: As usual, the worse part of any overseas transaction is now the shipping. Both instruments look perfect visually. I am guessing that he will open the tachometer from the top, make the repair, and maybe clean it so it is going to look different from the speedometer. Unless someone tells me the Speedometer fails too, I think I would pass on sending both instruments. I am still going to check if a repair in the USA is possible.

You may as well buy two of these hoses , one to install and one to keep around for a spare . When you install this be sure to index the hose clamps so when you do it AGAIN and AGAIN you will have less trouble with R & R . BTW , if you go with the homemade design , keep in mind this will have to be compatible with petroleum . You may spend more time with your innovation than buying an OEM part. Don't feel like the Lone Ranger , we all have a breather tube that did/does look like this .

My... I'm retired, on a fixed income, don't have deep pockets but when or if my breather hose fails, this is my contingency plan....https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=1186 .Yeah, it maybe made of material that is not as good as the original or it might be better, who knows, I don't care. Plus it won't be boogered up with a half dozen hose clamps. On the otherhand, if I replaced one of these hoses with an aftermarket piece and it didn't last more that a season or two I'd opt for the genuine oe stuff. FWIW, the breather hose on mine is 20+ years old and shows no sign deterioration (weather checking, etc.) Hope I didn't put the maloik on it by bragging that it's the original. Respectfully submitted, Art PS - I like the $0.02 imoji

...and not a disc brake in sight.

Yes, no doubt. I recall reading here that someone had fabricated a hose using straight, oil-resistant rubber hosing and copper elbows from the plumbing supplies department. Sounds very plausible and possible to me. PS: it just occurred to me that I have bent copper tubing myself once upon a time. Don't know what for anymore, but the tool is still in my workshop somewhere. It is just a long spring that goes aroung the outside of the copper pipe to stop it from collapsing in the bend. Has to be the right size, of course. I'm pretty sure I found it in the hardware store. That tool and precisely applied brute force, and one should be able to bend the elbows to exactly what one needs.

With the Sporti I used 2 silicone elbows and an alloy tube for the main breather from the engine to the frame. Silicone isn't recommended for oil, but when I asked the supplier he stated that for a breather it would probably be Ok and so far no problems. Just saying that if obtaining the part is too difficult or expensive, it's not beyond the wit of man to fabricate something. Pretty sure compatible material elbows are available

Needs some legnano green on it....ha ha . Cheers Ps it is a good looking car.

I had another look at Stein-Dinse and found the part(s) that I remembered finding last year. One for just over 70 Euros, and one really cheap. I found them in the parts list for a V10 Centauro. They weren't linked in the V11 parts lists at Stein-Dinse that I looked at. I think someone sent me a link when I bought mine last year. Anyway, here it is... https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/search.html?grp=&searchStr=30157400 The expensive one is probably original, the cheap on has a Z on the end of the part number, and is therefore definitely from a third party supplier. The Z in Stein-Dinse numbers always indicates that. The cheap one is apparently in stock. The original is listed with a delivery time of up to 8 weeks. It is of course up to the individual concerned, which part he or she chooses. I bought the expensive one on the strength of advice from a very well informed source here. He reckons the more expensive original part will last longer. Time will tell.

Correct you should not plug the line to the airbox or the crankcases cant vent. If you have positive CC pressure due to blow by then you have a real issue. Most of what people see coming from the PCV or CC vent is air movement due to the pumping process of the pistons. It's easier for the CC air being pumped around by the rising and falling pistons to vent out the breather than follow the sometimes convoluted internal route to the underside of the rising piston. Sometimes CC pressure can briefly go to zero or a little below on a wet sump engine that uses a reed valve in the breather such as Ducati twins have for years and years. As the CC air is expelled out the breather any slight pressure is vented and the reed valve then closes and the CC pressure will go to zero or fractionally below very briefly. Phil

These guys could be a source.

US source for the nefarious breather hose: https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1186

Sunday Arvo ride. Hunter Valley NSW Australia

Thank you all for your replies. Thanks for the eBay link, Lucky - I'll go down that path. I was expecting prohibitive costs, & I didn't win the lottery last night, but I can stretch myself to that. Cheers

I welded up one of the holes as suggested and it worked well. I eventually replaced the fork insert with the andreani inserts and they're better still with more finer adjustability. Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

In the case of my 2000 Greenie, I find the fork to be fairly compliant. My big issue was having it set too stiff. I was going to Race Tech for revalve/respring route but I neglected to play with the adjusters. Once I did, it made a huge difference. I wrongly assumed that everything should be stiffer. I found just the opposite. The front end bounces and deflects and when it's too stiff it contributes to weave at speed. I discovered it was much worse when I had a new tire installed and the tech had put 40 lb of air in it. Then it dawned on me that front was just too stiff. Softening the adjusters made a big difference and I discovered there was a lot more adjustability than I guessed. I'd suggest playing around with it first. If I still didn't like it, I'd contract Race Tech. They don't list anything but others here have gotten their products.

Somewhere in this forum I wrote something up about how the early forks have basically zero compression dampening. I also talked about how, if you block off one of the two large bleed bypass ports in the cartridge tube, you can force the oil to go through the piston and valve stack and end up not only with dampening but have an adjuster that does something beyond the last inch of travel. The early forks have two large bypass ports that allow so much oil through them that the oil only needs to go through the piston and valving after the piston is past at least one of the two ports. And that doesn't happen until you are something like 3/4 the way through the suspension travel. Changing the oil won't help much unless you resolve that issue in my opinion. New springs are good, but we found that once we actually got the forks to have compression dampening we were OK with stock springs. At your weight, you may want stiffer springs, but I would address the utter lack of compression dampening first. From memory, I was working on the forks and happened to put the forks together without the springs installed. That made it easy to see what is going on. No matter what I did with the compression adjuster the compression leg had zero resistance to being compressed. I looked at it closer and saw the two large bypass ports and figured out that I could block one of them off and that would force at least SOME of the fork oil to go through the valving in the piston. The way it was stock it only really forced the fork oil through the valving after the piston was past at least one of the two bypass holes. So really, it was more like an adjustable hydraulic bumpstop.