footgoose

If the greenie is the one on CL in Covina, I would check out myself if I weren't 2000 miles away.

To my knowledge, all '02 and some carry-over '03 were affected. '01 Rosso Mandello, not sure of, but most likely so. Mine, from new, started bubbling between 3 and 4k miles. It took 3k or more miles to get the full effect. I left it till I replaced the clutch to remove the engine and strip and paint. Ford simi-gloss engine paint.

an old and worn front tire will present as heavy steer on a sport bike. Also, a 19 year old moto that's been sitting, and with an unknown history, should be looked at as you would any vintage bike. Off with the tank and wash it out. Do the "tank off maintenance" while there. Have a look at the breather tube, goes from the underside of the frame near the head down to the rear of the case. That thing can/will rot and disintegrate, and leak oil. Service every electrical connection and ground you can find. that's a start... as others have said, short frames are quite stable riders. You get that thing sorted and you'll be laughing. welcome citizen

every time I have the rear wheel off, I use this nipple attached to my grease gun hose. the point of it is directed inside the zerk fitting, by depressing the tiny ball. it is still at a slight angle and a little bit of grease escapes, but with care and even pressure applied, the job gets done. I have an '02 frame,.... unsure of early frames

agreeing with this line of thought, I would do as gstallons suggests, and eliminate any potential problems with external shift components first. You will have wasted no time on it as it most likely needs cleaned, lubed, and thoroughly inspected, if for nothing else, peace of mind. Then think about the pre-selector mechanism, which, for real peace of mind, (and motorcycling enjoyment) truly must be seen too and sorted in the manner outlined on this forum. It's easy enough a job for the mechanically inclined non professional, and getting the new shift spring in there is highly recommended.

it takes 4 days to get to socal. and a lot more ants.

This is interesting. Good luck and can’t wait to see what turns up

Chuck, you gotta ride south of Indy.

ImgZeit is great. A while back I had a question, and the CEO got back to me with the answer. We even chatted over a beer at SSR15!

how long have you had the bike? where and how long was it stored, for both you and the PO? corrosion, bad connections and grounds could be in several places. Damp, unused, or neglected V11 tend to get pissy.

wicked cousin.... Viva Tonti! "... pronounced Gootsie ... try to keep up"

a good friend taught me this. You must only make the decision to sell or keep, following a good ride. If you can have a quality ride, get off her and say, "yeah I could give her up" - time to sell.

what's the verdict on sealed vs not sealed relays, irrespective of brand.

I have, and ride both. the red frame handles the curves much better, but I'm not the racy sort so.... something to do with the tire/rim size, and something to do with the short frame for sure. beyond that, the long frame is at home on my favorite type roads, long sweepers. If I were to build one for racing I'd put the money into a short one... with the bracing from a long one.

I have the rossopuro cardan bar FWIW. what is this?

Nice bike, any name containing the word hammer will fit right in here. Welcome

Excellent!

We’re in camp. Colors flying. It’ll be good to see y’all. Ride safe

Ha. Dave, I saw your cans for sale and wondered.... well one thing led to another and here I am, and so are you. too funny. Well, if they don't sell you can always make^^^ this^^^ work. I have a spare set too, was thinking of stealing the mid pipes for a muffler project

yer good Docc... yer good

not sure what 4 does, but 5 runs the fuel pump. did you replace all relays? if not, do that first. smarter people will chime in with help. welcome Paul

thanks Docc, for your continued care and attention.

hopefully the easyout comes out easy. then if enlarging the hole VERY carefully won't work, use a die grinder or dremmel tool with grinder bit to hollow it out. just don't get into the female threads.

wish I could see it better. Is that the plug with a hole drilled in and a broken easyout protruding? In different circumstances of course, I've then removed the easyout and continued drilling with larger bits till I almost reach the female threads... then pick away at whats left till I can get a clean-up tap in. I learned that technique once while having a wisdom tooth removed at the dental school.