Pressureangle

The worn threads were short of the nut plate, and the pivot bushing was riding on them. I'm not surprised it killed the bushing, but a bit surprised it killed the bolt threads. But it was the second lever to wear on it, ~35k miles.

I have a '97 1100 Sport-i, which has the 5 speed transmission. I don't think you have the same ends on the linkage; the rubbers on mine simply push over a ring on the pivot housing. As a technical point, the shift lever bushes come out like a debutante with a 1/8" pipe tap. I really should have taken another picture...the new bushes protruded from the shifter ends a mm or so, and instead of trimming them I fitted a 10mm viton sealing washer to each end as a spacer and seal to keep the grease in. proud of myself like a 4th grader.

Just like real life.

Drifting from the thread a bit; it's not your language skills that fail with youth, it is theirs. Americans have been systematically trained to eliminate precision in language, and it shows more acutely every year. It's my observation that the English skills, both spoken and written, by non-native speakers are quite usually far above the average US English speaker. I can get on in Spanish, French, and German (after a little recent immersion) and touched on Pashto. I lament that I didn't grow up multilingual.

I had been looking out the window at signs for Ruby Falls and Lost Lake since before I-75 was built. I was amazed a few years ago to find that these attractions are hugely interesting and not merely tourist traps. I intend to go back to Ruby Falls again, it's that good.

Just yesterday I replaced the pivot bolt and bushings in my shift lever. It appears by the pictures that the later V11 has the same lever and pivot construction; it is easy to overtighten the pivot bolt and pinch the lever. Check that your lever moves freely on the pivot. Sometimes it's the simple stuff.

The Barycenter is involved, but not a clear illumination. More a more appropriate, if still difficult, concept is Moment of Inertia; the calculation of effort to revolve the masses *around* the barycenter. Specific to the leg-hanging-out, the rider can make minute adjustments to the moment of inertia between his major mass (bike/body) and his minor mass (leg) to move the barycenter to the tire centerline if it moves away. Anyone who's raced a post-1985 racebike knows the 'poor unicycle' feeling when the rear wheel unloads. When I was racing the fast guys were just learning to 'back it in' to the corners by braking hard enough and precisely enough to keep just enough rear wheel friction to control the rotation of the bike into the corner. Sketchy business and only for those of superhuman reflex. Hanging the leg gives another precise control upon braking, as having the back end weaving at all destroys your entry dynamic. I'm sure that's as clear as mud... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_of_inertia Think of a bowling ball and a barbell that have the same weight, and how much harder the 'bell is to swing in the plane of the bar. Moving the mass outward from center slows rotation, and for these guys they can put to use microscopic changes that we mortals can't even experience distinctly.

A half-hour of web search turned up zero DU bushings in 43mm. Closest I can find is 45mm- but they are cheap. https://www.hydraulicszone.com/mdu-045x050x012.html You might consider sourcing them from the WP service center, if they're not prohibitively expensive. Pyramid parts ships to US, which is about $70 US if it's the same as things going the other direction. https://pyramid-parts.com/collections/fork-bushes I'd suggest that 43mm is simply outside the industrial standards, and fork manufacturers have them made in quantity to suit. If that's the case, your sourcing is limited to motorcycle fork suppliers. <shrug> Doable, but again considering the price and convenience (less for you than me) I gave mine to the WP service guys.

You should have seen mine when I got it.

Wondered about that also, mine is a '97. The piece was advertised as 'Sporti'. I guess I never looked for that in photos of the past. I'm sure someone with an earlier model will speak up.

Well, with all that in the background, I'd ride it through the summer and worry over it when season is over. There's a strong argument that changing oil filters isn't necessary with every oil change; theoretically, if your engine never creates a piece of debris bigger than the holes in the filter, the filter does no thing atall anyway. Particularly since gravity doesn't make the filter a collection point, I would just button it up and enjoy it.

It's a square-pan engine, right? Not wide sump? If so there are 4 hex bolts in the bottom, 3 in front & rear, 4 on each side. Even with Permatex hard gasket sealer, it shouldn't be so tight- even if so it should tear the gasket in half. Still confused.

Hm. I did see an old guy carefully drive a utility knife blade into a gasket to start to separate the parts. A new blade and a light touch is worth a try, I suppose.

I bought a tailpiece on eBay just to get the pillion cover, and that it was yellow matching my bike. I paid too much for just the pillion, but figured I'd have the spare tail on the shelf. I thought the tailpiece was the accessory flat-sided tail, but now I think it's from a Daytona. Can anyone confirm, and would anyone like it as a spare? I'll just shelf it. As for the pillion cover, I'm going to take it to the local boatbuilders and see if I can get someone to reproduce it in high-quality fiberglass and perhaps fit it a little more closely to reduce the big gaps they apparently all have.

I bought the beautiful billet shifter/brake levers from Harper's not long after I bought the bike. Somewhere along the way I've noticed that there's more play in the pivot bushings of the shifter than I like, so I ordered new bushings. Upon disassembly and inspection, I found that the stock (most likely stock) bolt is 110mm long, and leaves just about 10mm of threads on the bushing side of the inner nutplate/mount. So the threads and bushing on the inside are hammered. I ordered a new Stainless bolt from McMaster 120mm long, which should get the threads out of the bushing, though I'll have to trim the length of the threads once installed. https://www.mcmaster.com/92290A805/ While there, I pulled back the rubbers from the shift linkage and packed them with the open gear/cable grease I use for my driveshaft splines. They were in fine shape anyway.

Does anyone know what *kind* of sealer he used? I'm not sure even that matters. If you've made certain there's nothing mechanical holding it, the only thing left is the mallet. If there's a clean protruding edge somewhere you can get at with a piece of aluminum flat stock you can attack a corner or side that way without digging too much of the pan material off. As a last resort, and I hate even to suggest it, you might take a cylinder and piston off and see if you can get a piece of hardwood dowel down through the crank and oil stuff to strike it inside the pan. Not a happy thought, nor a guarantee of success. A long time ago, working at a bicycle shop, I was threatening a new carbon fiber swingarm while fishing through a lost cable. The boss said, "You've broken more expensive stuff than this, haven't you?" I laughed, because he was right.

Did you get the 10mm capscrews out from the center of the bottom? That one tripped me up last time, even though I knew they were there once discovered and reminded.

Buchanan's sells stainless lube for their spokes. I still have an ancient bottle I use for those rare occasions. http://www.buchananspokes.com/categories/miscellaneous_tools.asp

Florida doesn't require motorcycle insurance; after all these years I still don't know what to make of that. I don't think taking the course over again would lower mine, but I could ask.

It's a .pdf so it won't share the picture https://www.msf-usa.org/downloads/Street_Motorcycle_Tips.pdf

Metric 150mm scale - check Magnetic angle meter - check Digital caliper - check Ride height also plays a part in rake, a little less in trail. We'll have to find a way to assure ride height is a standard; the easy way would be to measure the top of the spine with the tank off.

Living on the Seacoast myself, I have to admit it's a constant battle to keep the brown menace at bay- 'Rust never sleeps'. I replace anything I can with 316 Stainless and what I can't get in stainless I get in a phosphate black and coat it with Cosmoline RP342, either sprayed or applied with Q-Tip. Once dry, you can wipe away any excess you find distracting and it will remain in the pores for the rest of eternity. I haven't seen a spec on anything I've used it on, ever. Shouldn't be a surprise given that was it's purpose from day one, but nobody thinks about Cosmoline except when they have to clean it off a WWII relic.

For what it's worth. I bought a case of 12. Subtotal: $96.78 USD Shipping: $32.00 USD FL STATE TAX - FLORIDA: $0.00 USD Grand Total: $128.78 USD

Bumping. Hope to have at least a couple in hand (including my own missing sample) in a week or so.