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No , when you start drawing your own diagrams , you are getting better . Keep it up . You will only get better . Use the V11 diagram to compare with and judge your work with . Also , take your diagram to an office store , have it enlarged & laminated .

That looks like a good DOT 4. The boiling points are just a little lower than the Motul 5.1 that I used. Dry boiling point 509F vs 522F. Wet boiling 329 vs 365. I don't think the clutch slave will ever get that hot, but I like to use the same fluid in everything. I think any DOT 4 or 5.1 is probably fine. The key is to keep it fresh - not let it sit in there forever.

Evening All! So I had a little wiring issue with my wee Monza, and decided to draw out a coloured wiring diagram to gain some control over the problem. Went marvellously- all sorted now yay. I ended up enjoying it so much that I decided to draw out the V11 diagram in colour too. So, if any of you fine gentlemen would like a copy of this let me know. It’s been a tough year, that’s for sure, so no charge for this unless you’re feeling flush and want to punt a few quid my way. I’ve gained enough from this forum over the past few years not to feel greedy at all. Looking at a coloured diagram makes a tonne of difference. Anyway, let me know if you’d like a copy. 🙂 Stew

To get a wire ring out, use a flat blade screwdriver to push the end DOWN out of the groove 1st. Pushing down is much easier than trying to pry up. Once down, slip a flat feeler gauge under the tip of the wire, then slide the end up using a hook or flat blade. Be ready when it pops out.

gstallions- well i originally started drawing it out with pen and pencil crayons... then made a couple mistakes... so photo’d what i’d done and went into procreate and finished the job there. so i now have a digi copy that zoomz in and out. ace.

Thank you guys for your advices. I went to a metal workshop pro in my town who put back the tube in its original shape as the bent was not too sharp. But after a while of long search, I finally found an original and never used tube in Italy from a motorcycle spare part shop and I bought it. I preferred to install a new part so that the bike is still in “like new” condition. Thanks anyway

I’ve just found the link to this old tractor’s page... doh! There’re full colour copies of, what looks like, every model! I would say I wasted my time drawing up my own haha, but it certainly improved my knowledge!

I have the HF, and saw pix of the mojo lever and mojo blocks, so naturally I converted the horrible HF lever to a mojo lever. (I have *lots* of Delrin, and a lathe.) Made something that looks like mojo blocks, and have changed *many* tires. I like the mojo lever idea..

I wouldn't be happy with just bleeding the system after a failure. Consider flushing it completely. If you have a little syringe, you can draw all the old fluid out of the reservoir and fill it with new - that will reduce the amount of flushing you need to do. FWIW, I just did this yesterday as I am getting mine back on the road. I used Motul DOT 5.1 fluid in place of DOT 4. (not DOT 5, which is not compatible). It's best to have a helper to squeeze the lever while you work the wrench and monitor the fluid. To keep the hose on the bleeder and avoid making a mess, use a zip tie.

Today (and yesterday): Proper cleaning Installed a pair of Angel GTs (with my new hitch-mount NoMar tire changer) Flushed clutch fluid and both brakes (I thanked myself for installing speed bleeders a while ago) Cleaned the brake calipers and pistons Changed transmission oil and rear drive Dropped the pan during oil change since it had been sitting idle so long. For entertainment, here is an easy way to bleed the rear caliper (while you have the wheel off).

Condolences to Royal Family and our British friends. As an American, I've gotten some appreciation of respectful leaders over the last 4 years. Some moral authority to absorb the shocks, if you will.

Peering at a fuse box in a Scottish factory, he said: “It looks as though it was put in by an Indian.” He later backtracked: “I meant to say cowboys.” ...I remember well the media beat up outrage at this infamous Prince Philip quip - but the deft recovery reported a few days later made it all the more infinitely hilarious - an absolute classic!! He was a great irreverent wag - the Queen will miss that for sure! End of an era HRH.

Yes. It is commonly accepted knowledge that the stock air box is preferred. Guzzi put a lot of work into making the flow optimal, a long time ago. It's not just a box, it's an integral piece of the intake system. It is surely the 'tuner friendly' way to go. That said, Dr. John Wittner, who was instrumental in development of the spine frame, succeeded in putting Guzzi back in the racing limelight for a short time in the 80's, certainly used V stacks on at least some of his bikes. It can be done right, I just don't care enough to do it. I'd be interested in reading anyone's outcomes using pods if they care to post them.

Clips for the later 54mm forks. These are the ‘high rise’ units so when set under the yolk you still get a fair bit of up/down adjustment for comfort or otherwise. Good serviceable condition £70 plus postage. (Not far off half price for new)

Our Queen has ruled for almost my entire life, I cannot imagine how hard it will be since losing her husband. I have a strange sense of foreboding about the future, I cannot put it into words it is a little like losing your parents.

Based on what we see so far, my choice would be the 05 LeMans. It appears all original - I don't see any modifications. With 55,000 kilometers, it's probably not been sitting for long periods, and it should go a lot more Ks. As for collector value, who knows. But that black beauty could be the last Moto Guzzi LeMans ever made. On either the LeMans or the silver sport, factor in a new shock. The originals tend to crack the lower mount eye. And a new shock just makes it so much better. If you got the Scura, you'd probably want to service the Ohlins if the previous owner has not.

+1 on the airbox comment. Max flow with zero turbulance. A lot of homework. I wanted to scrap mine but thought of the nightmares of air turbulance on jetting on my old CB750. Made it run like sh!t at high speed. Decided to go open airbox. Best of both worlds. More air, smooth flow. @Scud I'll be bleeding mine soon. Just did my CB which reminded me how much of a mind numbing bother a tiny air bubble can be. But got it. Brakes are not so bad. But something about doing the clutch...😂

I do a complete flush as Scud describes but I use a turkey baster to empty the rez. Every two years. Just as the Satanic BMW tech's used to advise for my ABS Beem's. I thought I should give this a try this time .. http://pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentosin_SuperDot_4.pdf any thoughts?

Thank you, Stew! This is a great example of the true community that we have here. I feel very lucky to have my V11– an outstanding roadster — and my mates here to keep her chuggin’ down the road! Along the lines of what Tom asked.....would this diagram be applicable to a 2001 red frame model?

Back to the op topic, I use a C-Tek 4.3 smart charger that has a mode specifically for Odyssey type batteries. I've bought a bunch of battery connector leads and rotate the charger through my bikes and other equipment as needed. fwiw I've read recently on here that the chargers can be toxic to the R/R on the V11s and the 30 amp fuse should be pulled to protect it while charging, is that the correct/simplest procedure? I've been charging my California Vintage for a few years with this method and I "think" that bike has the same type of alternator R/R charging system, my CX100 also has the EME 450W permanent magnet system, which I believe is the same style charging system as well. I've never noticed the battery charger causing a problem, maybe I'm just lucky and have been dodging bullets, idk?

Stew. Do you have print of both systems for the V11, if so, yes please. Cheers tom.

Well it ended up being the TPS. The new one came in, installed it, and went for a spin. It was wonderful! The sputtering/burping/hiccuping has been eliminated and the bike did great on a 20 mile loop under varied loads and speeds. Time to enjoy the bike!

Some smart folks in this group here generally are not in favor of the velocity stacks for mechanical reasons, and i've followed that advice with my V11's, partly on its own merit but also based on experience in other machines (which arguably are relevant for comparison). But i recently acquired a very low mile greenie to "supplement" the 2 Lemans in the garage (gotta keep them company...), which has the velocity stacks installed from the PO, and next winter when i go through it i'll start off with keeping those velocity stacks in place, partly because they look neat, and mostly because i don't have a stock airbox to install at this point. Fun to play around, and everyone has different tastes and "needs".... i'm not sure what i need from this greenie, but should be fun going through it, and maybe it will end up going back to clean/stock because it has such low miles, or maybe i'll make it more of a one-off since i already have a couple of dialed-in Lemans (Lemans's, Lemans's's...) Anyway, if you get to where you're trying to tune out any anomalies in how she runs (many of us obsess over that at some point... its a disease), the air intake is something to keep in mind, but that said if she runs good (or great), and/or looks great, then you've got a winner. how about a pic to share of the '04?

Good thing i did not ask you...

2004 cafe sport Added ground wire to regulator casing Installed some swank Rizoma fluid resevoirs Removed air box and installed aluminum velocity stacks with K&N filter. Found ground stud on case loose Replaced broken fast idle cable Recrimped start circuit bullet connectors under the tank Bike seems ALOT more responsive with the velocity stacks and filters Starter has alot more umph with the loose ground tightened Still waiting on headers without the crossover and will install thr carbon fiber timing cover when i do.... I really love the way this bike rides and looks.

If it were my money and between the 3 I would go 01 Sport. This is why: The Scura can be an iffy with the flywheel. If you have no odd rattles or any chatter at high rpms it will be a good one. But for whatever reason a low miles V11 can be a warning. Guzzis don't like to sit. But a Scura is sweet. Kinda why I own one. If the clutch and flywheel are good jump on it. The 05 LeMans can be a coin toss. Either a really good one or a really bad one. I know this comment might piss some off but it's my experience. Clocks and electrics.. ITI gauges...🤢 But if it was an 01 or 02...😍😍😍 The 01 Sport seems like a gem. Shorter wheel base? These were pretty solid. Only thing is the different subframe. Just hope you love the seat. Other than that? Great bike. Just the low miles thing. If nothing leaks you should be good. My 2 pesos..

Those are the factory LaFranchoni on the LeMans. Original levers, Vacuum tube still attached to the intakes, front side reflectors intact. Looks good. Right, so, a 2005 original-looking LeMans with 31,000 miles for $5200US? Hmmmm . . . Is there definitely a "5" in the tenth character of the VIN? (2005 models were not many AFAIK.)

I personally wouldn't consider the Scura you've mentioned. For 10k it want's to be perfect, and that includes a clutch/flywheel upgrade-replacement, low mileage and near new. ANY seller who is not absolutely forthcoming with relevant info is hiding something. The '01 would be my choice of the other 2. They both are priced near the high end of reasonable IMO. The Scura with the OEM flywheel still installed is potentially a VERY serious issue! Replacing it yourself is doable (I did mine) but involves $ and a lot of work to separate tranny from engine. $$$$ to have done at the dealer. If the flywheel goes bang while riding, it can take out the motor case and maybe a piece of your leg. No doubt some guys sell their bike to avoid the cost of repair and the possible catastrophe. The aluminum flywheel was installed in 3 models afaik. 2001 Rosso Mandello 2002 Scura 2002 Tenni

I always liked riding a short frame...OH!..You mean a MOTORCYCLE!..

After the short frame bikes they got fat, porky, and ponderous. Real men with big balls ride the "short frame". Old codgers tend to go for the fat lardy long frame version. Ciao

Look at the math . 01 Scura $10k Good looking bike . Ohlins , lots of plus .$10k , no way. 01 v11 for $5k or 05 for $6500 . 4 years for $1500 . Mmmmm . The 05 would be my choice .

Well, I was talking to myself on my ride today, trying to ride the Stelvio like a sport bike on my 200 miles loop to Borrego Springs. On the way home, I balanced out the 3 cases with a 10 pound bag of oranges in each, along with avocados, tangerines, onions, ginger, and cinnamon. I love the fruit and veggie stands out in Pauma Valley. Perfect spring day in San Diego County - hot in the desert, there was still some snow on top of Mount Palomar, and ocean breezes at home. Another thing I like about the Stelvio - 8 gallon tank. If I had left with it full, I could have done that loop easily without stopping for fuel.

Rossopuro's little beautiful reaction rod in red anodized aluminium. Never used. Found it in a package when cleaning out the storage. Bikes sold years ago. It seems to be out of production so I am unsure what to ask for it... can I get 150 euros?

Here's one for those people that say I never do anything. Me pushing our rider off again after a pit stop in the Senior race. John Williams is putting the re-fuelling gear back and the two guys in the red black and yellow are the marshals that give the bike a look over during the pit stop and make sure there are no mechanical issue. If there is they wont let you leave the pits until it's rectified. I didn't like the re-fuelling job just in case I gave the rider a crutch full of fuel. I stuck to the clean the screen and/or change the visor and give the bike a look over. We didn't need a tyre change. And here he is under the paint flat out past the pits lining it up for the run down Bray hill at probably 160 mph on a flying lap. Not a great image behind the fuelling churns. My memory of all the riders going past here wide open a meter away flat on the tank looking through the fly spattered screen is one I'll never forget. Imagine the commitment of pointing the bike down Bray hill between the curbs flat out, needing the line to be near perfect, especially the boys on the big factory bikes. Like threading the needle at 180 mph plus with the consequences of getting it wrong not bearing thinking about. Respect. MotoGP riders, not quite in the same league. Ciao

Transition period ? That's funny . M/G is a transition period .