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Lard! Lard is good! Actually lard is a fantastic lubricant. All animal fats are. The problem is most of them aren’t liquid at room temperature and they get smelly real quick! One thing they keep very quiet is that sperm whale oil is still used as a lubricant in space vehicles because of its abilities to withstand extremes of circumstance. At least it was at the turn of the millennium. I have to admit I haven’t kept up…...

Kind of Black, silver, red, greenie ++. Cool bikes, and have l mentioned the engines before, YES l have [emoji16]. End of season up here. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

I'm not the guy who routes in stone, just easy to keep stops in Garmin. How about this; I can start about anywhere, let me know where you are going to be Mon/Tues, maybe we can hit a few stops together. I'll PM my cell number.

Marfa, Ft. Davis, all nice riding...lots of curves, and a stop at the observatory is an interesting one! I gather from your route then that you are starting from the East and working your way west. I anticipate being in Atlanta Thursday next week, after picking up stops south of Dallas and then in Dallas area/Greenville, ending up in Atlanta. Enjoy the riding!

Survey says no. Candelaria is the last reach for solo riders on big bikes. Chispa road goes past but is not for tourists. Can take the Mexican side up from there, but uh...no. So I'll keep to the route on the Garmin, cutting back to Marfa.

@fastaussieMy Griso valve covers have been powder coated black by the previous owner. They still look great. I assume red would be the same.

Here's what AI says about M1 oil docc. I always known it as a Group 4 full synth motor oil. It may have changed in the last decade, not sure. Yes, Mobil 1 is a synthetic motor oil that uses Group IV PAO (polyalphaolefin) base stocks, often combined with Group V (ester) base stocks for its tri-synthetic formula, providing high performance and engine protection. While the specific formulation can vary, Mobil 1 is recognized for using these higher-grade base oils to achieve its "fully synthetic" claim. Phil

That housekeeping done (y'all carry on with that Texas bid'ness! ) . . . I have to tell this South'n Spine Raid story, lest it fade away . . . Late night in the Tellico Garage, the question of "Why a Guzzi?" came up. One revered SpineRaider spoke up ( I paraphrase, but not entirely!) . . . "I was always a Ducati guy and hated Guzzis ." >hated<. "One day I was at my dealer and walked by a SPOrT 1100 from behind. I squatted down and looked at it from behind. " "It was like your girlfriend bending over in some hot shorts. " Some quick-witted SpineRaider noted he said: YOUR girlfriend, not HIS girlfriend . . . Either way: he's been a Guzzi guy ever since.

After somewhere around six drift posts, they find their way to a better home . . .

Sort of like duck hunting. You never get the bird you don't shoot at.

Incidendtally, @Sam P, with all this dicking around on a bike that is apparently not charging, don't forget to keep an eye on the charge state of the battery, and put it on a tender as necessary. If it is half flat, the fault finding wont get any easier.

Mighty fine day to have a retired fellow's schedule.

I figured since this subforum doesn't move much it's a good place to stick and edit for sale stuff... Roper slosh plates, obviously (Rusty star picket project) I bought throttle body bushings, and since I have 3 bikes that take the same ones I bought a bag of 30 to get the discount. Had to order offshore and took 2 weeks- odd size in the US. If anybody wants a set, I'll send them along for postage and a donut. CA cycleworks has the seals. I'm going to find a set of common injectors and have them ready to ship out, that way members can have them on hand for a quick swap, and send theirs to me without losing ride time. I made a nice stainless replacement rod for my rusty TB linkage. I don't have ends but swap yours on or find new from Volvo, Yamaha etc. $35 shipped to US. One day I'll have the plastic adjustment knobs for the TB linkage. In the works but not yet available.

Wow, thank you. I am indeed a novice! Will look into this tomorrow.

Answers to your questions in BOLD above. Thank you.

I'm not near my bike right now, so no close ups, however the P.O. powder coated the valve covers and side plates on my 02 Le Mans. It's a darker red and really makes the bike pop IMHO. I think if you took the photo to a good powder coating shop they could copy it.

Just a thought. I have a set of covers from a 2003 Rosso Corsa. They are somewhat faded, as are many of the ones in photos I have seen. The color seems 'off' from what was possibly intended anyway. Was it intended to be the same as the Mandello tank? My point is, not unlike many of the (varying) red side plates, the paint or anodizing is often unreliable. If you can't find fairly NOS, I would get 'whatever' color parts and have them done to suit.

Yeas ago my Mom bought this one...how many times did I look at that album cover and imagine?

I'm running Royal Purple HFS 20W-50 in my flat tappet bikes. It's formulated for those.

Now $3800.

Bravo Docc...well played! Touché!

If you ran in a perfect 70deg.+ temp you could get by. But then you would have to find a new "concern".

Check fuse 4 to see if 12v is at both sides of the fuse (this will give a good indication the ring terminal is attached to the battery and then check for V at the regulator. You're on your own AFA the correct color. This won't be the first time a disconnected ring terminal has been a problem !

Just as a point of reference I had a customer I sold a new 8V Griso to way back when. It got its first service and its 10,000km service with me and he then moved away and there was nowhere nearby to service it. Now he really is a mechanical neophyte and didn’t to anything to it. He got in contact with me a few years later and asked if he could bring it in for a service, I said yes of course. Anyway when I was working on it I noticed the engine was absolutely filthy on the inside! What I drained out of it was absolutely gross! When he picked it up I asked him when he’d last changed the oil. He looked kind of sheepish and said “Never, I just topped it up when it dropped off the stick!” At that point it had done nearly 90,000 Km!!! Thing is, apart from being filthy everything else that I could check seemed fine! I got the chance to explore further about 30,000 Km later when it dropped a valve and destroyed a head, barrel and piston but whether the guide wear that promoted that was related I have no idea, the 8V’s do use valve guide oil seals after all. The whole engine as in remarkably good shape! The long and the short of it is Guzzis tend to be monstrously over-built and modern oils are very, very good at their job and last extraordinarily well. I have always used Penrite 10/60 in everything I’ve owned built this century and nothing has blown up yet. That seems like a good enough reason not to change. To my mind the 10,000km service interval is very conservative but draining the gribblies out is always good, it’s not particulates generally it’s the crap and byproducts of combustion that need to be got rid of.

without asking, it's 100% guaranteed to not get what you're looking for...

at least everyone is being so helpful...

I screenshot KiwiRoy's schematic so we can see it more easily. It says clearly that the voltage reference comes from the headlamp circuit. Have to go back to see if the bulb is in that circuit or not.

I love an optimist. The bikes been out of production for almost 20 years but you're in luck I have a valve cover tree in my yard and I'll pick you some and send them over, lol. Phil

The weird thing is that the lamp is not coming on when the ignition is switched on, but does light at higher revs. I'm referring to the schematic of the original regulator from Kiwi Roy that I attached here and to the wiring diagramme on page 364 of this workshop manual, which I believe is the correct one for the bike https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf The lamp comes on at higher revs, so we know for sure it is getting power, at least under those conditions. The power arriving there is shared by the oil light, the fuel level light, and the tacho. As I understand the diagram, it is not the tacho backlight, so if the tacho is working at all engine speeds, I'm assuming the power feed to the charge lamp is there all the time (for now) as the feed appears to be the same one that powers the tacho. Therefore, I suspect some sort of intermittent contact, in the lamp or on the way to the regulator, that is finding contact due to vibration a higher revs only. Bear in mind that an incandescent light bulb reacts slowly, so a barely separated contact that is finding intermittent contact due to vibrations could well be enough to make it look like it is lighting constantly. Referring to the Kiwi Roy schematic, the warning light comes on when the regulator switches the line coming from the warning light to ground. Therefore, contacting that wire to ground to check the lamp, as @gstallons suggested, is the way to check the lamp. According to the wiring diagram, however, that wire is light blue, not white. Whatever, given the described behaviour, if the lamp doesn't come on (Key on, engine off) with that light blue wire connected to ground, I would start the engine and see what happens at the engine speed at which it has been coming on. This is to test the "intermittent connection" theory against "the regulator is doing weird things". If it looks like there is an intermittant connection, it could be in the lamp itself, or in the socket. The next step along is in the connector number 8 at the bottom left of the wiring diagram, which I understand is the connector from the loom to the dashboard. After that, the connector at the regulator. Or a break in the actual wire. To cross check... Put the multi-meter on the Ohms setting, and measure the resistance (key on, engine off) between the connector on the regulator that the wire from the warning lamp connects to and ground (engine casing, battery minus...). That should be very close to zero(as I said, key on, engine off). Then start the engine. If the regulator is doing the right thing, the resistance should now be very high, effectively infinite. If not, the first guess is that the volts from the alternator aren't getting into the regulator, or the regulator might be dodgy. Now rev the engine slowly up to the revs at which the lamp was coming on. If the measured resistance was very high (infinite) right from the start and suddenly drops at high revs, it would seem that the regulator is doing weird stuff that I can't explain right now. I rather suspect that the measured resistance will turn out to be close to zero the whole time. That would indicate that the regulator isn't getting the volts from the alternator (or is faulty) and that there is an intermittent, vibration sensitive fault in the warning lamp circuit preventing the lamp from lighting all the time as the switch in the regulator is "telling" it to. In other words, I think it is possible that there are two problems happening simultaneously making it difficult to find either one.

What coincidence! There was in Italday in the Netherlands too yesterday: https://www.italdag.nl/ Sadly, I couldn't make it this year. Fun meet, with lots of special Ital bikes.

If you still have a Roper Plate , I am interested .

Surely- but I can't say just what the cost might be- may be less expensive to order a bag of 30 direct from the source. Lemme find it. Got them here- I'm sure they'd be glad to send direct. https://www.ebay.com/itm/235492214044?_skw=10pcs+sf-1+0808+self+lubricating+bearing+bushing+sleeve+8+x+10+x+8mm&itmmeta=01K555MNR051M09HMSJM535H5A&hash=item36d46e051c:g:AusAAOSwkuVbUCh8

The best methodology for putting Titanio canisters, grey Ballabio frame sideplates, and Rosso Mandello valve covers on your LeMans is to buy all those V11, rearrange the parts to your liking and keep them all. Seriously, let's ask the other inmates on the ward if that sounds crazy.

You should see what I do to myself. I buy bikes a breaker may not pay for and try to rehabilitate them.

That would be "Sachse", I think. Has a good reputation in Germany. https://www.elektronik-sachse.de/shopsystem-3/en/Digital-Ignition-Systems/ EDIT: just so it doesn't look like I'm advertising, I have a Silent Hektik ignition and alternator in my V35 Imola, and am absolutely happy with it. Sachse has its fans, but I'm not converting. https://www.silent-hektik.de/

It’ll still need a decent camchain tensioner and you’d be mad not to throw a chain at it at the same time. The fork dampers will be #@&#036;&amp;@#@ if they are the original sebacs, they used to blow as they rolled the bike off the end of the production line. Throw a set of FAC’s into it.

Here's a link to *a* schematic- for 2004. If anyone has a good 2000-2001 schematic, particularly in English (Did KiwiRoy do this?) I'd like to see it. https://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/wiring_v11-without-catalytic-converter_2004_it-en-fr-de.pdf Here are the Italian color translations Italian Color Name English Equivalent Notes Rosso Red Standard red; can imply a vibrant or warm shade. Blu Blue General term for blue, covering various shades. Giallo Yellow Standard yellow, from bright to mustard tones. Verde Green General green, encompassing light to dark shades. Nero Black Pure black, used universally. Bianco White Pure white, used universally. Arancione Orange Standard orange, derived from "arancia" (orange fruit). Viola Purple General purple, from light lavender to deep violet. Rosa Pink General pink, often a soft or medium shade. Marrone Brown Standard brown, often warm or earthy. Grigio Gray General gray, from light to dark shades. Azzurro Light Blue / Sky Blue A softer, brighter blue, often associated with the sky. Celeste Sky Blue / Pale Blue Lighter than azzurro, often used for pastel or baby blue. Beige Beige Neutral, light brownish-yellow, same as English usage. Avorio Ivory Off-white with a creamy or yellowish tint. Oro Gold Metallic or bright yellow-gold shade. Argento Silver Metallic gray or silver shade. Turchese Turquoise Blue-green shade, similar to the gemstone. Cremisi Crimson Deep, rich red with a slight purple undertone. Porpora Purple / Deep Red Historically a reddish-purple or deep scarlet, depending on context. Ocra Ochre Earthy yellow-brown, often used in art or design. Smeraldo Emerald Rich, deep green, like the gemstone. Zaffiro Sapphire Deep, vibrant blue, like the gemstone. Amaranto Amaranth / Magenta A reddish-purple or deep pinkish-red shade. Ciano Cyan Bright blue-green, often used in design or printing. Magenta Magenta Vibrant pinkish-purple, same as English usage. Carminio Carmine Bright, vivid red with a slight orange undertone. Bordeaux Burgundy Deep red, like the wine, with a purple tint. Ecru Ecru Unbleached linen color, pale beige or off-white. So it looks like the regulator has a light blue wire to sense voltage- this aligns with mine, though it's been cut away from the harness- the light (AZ) wire passes through a couple of connectors, then the 'charge' lamp, then to the tachometer +. When the differential between the regulator and the system reaches a sufficient level, the lamp illuminates- this also explains (probably) the high-rpm lamp, in that at low speed the current flows one way, in an overcharge state the current flows the opposite direction. By the schematic, I'd start looking at the back of the Tacho where the wire from the charge lamp connects. That wire on my 2000 is Red/Black, traced from the charge lamp to the + terminal on the tacho. If the Tacho ground is bad, that could be the issue, and they're famous for poor grounds. Pic for visibility

Hi! I wanted to know if there is some kind of thematic group in a messenger? For example, Telegram?

Thanks everybody, she is fine now, new reg/rec, battery conditioned, Great forum 👍