gstallons

Yep !

You do know how to remove the fuel line quick (they can be quick or not quick)connect fitings ? Push the hose against the fitting , push the white part against the hose , while holding these two parts together , remove the line.

To grease the rear joint , No ! To grease the front joint , another story .

OK ? Don't know what to say now !

Roger that. Good plan. Thanks! I put 1/2 bottle of UV dye in my bike a few months back in order to locate the leak. The dye isn't showing up through the bell housing hole. I was hoping that the leak was from the gasket above the oil pan, but it isn't. Maybe I just don't have enough dye in there, or perhaps it's already stained the inside of the bell housing as it leaks down through to the vent hole. Feel free to merge the threads, or delete mine, as they seem to be fairly similar. I'll post findings as my bike gets taken apart. I'd do it myself if there was any chance of the temps getting back into the 40's in the next few months. Probably won't get back into the 70's for at least 4 months here. Ken Are you using a UV light & glasses (w/the dye) to find this leak ?

Remove one of the pads and take it to the dealership . They can match them up for you .

Docc, before you tear it down , you should add a dye to the engine oil . Ride it for a while .... then tear it down . You can the use a UV light to see exactly where the oil leak is coming from.

My Chiro does some PM to my wrists and elbows to keep the Carpal Tunnel Syndrome away.... I would look like a gargoyle (or at least have the posture) if I didn't go to one.

I have ( I think) an old rod if you want it. Are you sure you properly replaced the o-rings under the rocker arm stands for the oil leak? I would fix the engine/clutch noise before spending $$ on the Roper Plate . The replacement of all the relays will be a good idea as preventive maintenance. These can be purchased at an automotive parts store . Take one with you so they can look through a buyer's guide for a match. Some of these relays have more terminals than others , so check all of them in the fuse / relay panel .

If you do go forward with this................There are o-rings under the rocker arm stands that need to be replaced . If you see oil that is between the head/cylinder mating surface that is where the leak is coming from .

My bike is a naked Sport so I can't answer the ? . It might be in your best interest to replace them with insulated spade connectors to make sure you never have this problem.

I don't think you will benefit yourself or the bike from replacing the springs w/shims. If it will make you feel better doing it , go ahead and do it.

Did you hit the ceiling when this happened ?

Do you have a lubricant supplier / vendor in your area ? You could give them these specs. and they could (if you talk to an intelligent person ) fix you up ! I don't know what brand lubricants you normally use or I would call some of my vendors .

Sorry. That does not help much in the evaluation of your problem .

Sargent does an excellent job... I do prefer the looks of the OEM saddle though ...

Excellent photos !

What is wrong with your seat ?

you talk like you have never squandered money before ?

NooooooH !

You can look on their website n see . It is worth it just to have them cleaned n matched flow.

Contact www.lindertech.com 1-888-809-3835 for fuel injector service.They can recondition your injectors and flow rate them to make sure they match . Is the fuel line connection ( that is leaking) held on w/a worm type clamp or a crimp type fitting ?

What is the part # of the electronic flasher ?

We are having a difficult time with the interpretations . It is critical that all parties understand each other . Do you know someone near you that is fluent in English?

Battery Tender is the only way to go !