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So.... it induces or it doesn't? Not like you can get more or less induction by setting it closer or further?

We spent a week in Athens, then another week visiting Greek islands on an MSC cruise. The ship also stopped for a day in Bari, Italy. Lots of scooters, and cycles, even a few Guzzi.

Sorry for my absent reply, I've been in Greece the past few weeks! It sounds like you have this covered now, no?

If memory serves, (Bendix factory brakes training) *all* simple coil-type inductive sensors are set at .030" +or- .010". So that's supported by this spec.

Well, the oil pressure light...definitely needs investigation. I know you have the means to test the switch, thread it into something and check action with air pressure. If the switch passes the testing, you're into the bottom end somewhere- hopefully just the oil filter loose? My first thought with the sputter stall was 'cam sensor fail'. If it was very hot, such as idling in traffic when it quit, then cooled and rode home in the wind, consider it. Monitor with heat in mind if future similar events. In reality, any failure in about 70% of the connections in the harness could cause this. Relays, ignition switch, run/sidestand/clutch switches, fuel pump connections, battery terminals... My 'Sport was hinkey half the time until I literally swept the entire harness from front to back with DeOxit, cleaned the inside of the ignition switch, added the extra grounds, et al. Now it simply works as intended.

I would bypass the sidestand switch (for test purposes only) and make sure it is working.

That depends on the fault. Assuming it did have something to do with that switch, the bike ran again later, so it can be considered an intermittant fault. I gather the bike was rolling when it died. So if the switch was cutting in and out, the momentum could easily have "push started" the bike a couple of times before it finally died. All crystal ball stuff from here, but it seems plausible to me. Since you worked on and around the switch recently, and now the motor is cutting out, I would definitely have another look at it and make sure it went back together properly.

You have two issues to address; As Roper,Tinus , I and others will verify , this light is not "for entertainment purposes only". Replace the oil press. switch and go looking. Remove the manhole cover and take off the filter and inspect the seal on the filter. Install a new filter / oil. Get this filter SNUG. when you install the manhole cover push against the pan and rotate it like you are removing it . When it clicks , stop turning and tighten it. This way you will not cross thread it. Install a new o-ring on the cover too. The majority of engine failures come down to loose oil filters. these are inside the oil pan and impossible to know if they are tight/loose until something bad happens. we don't want you to have a 500lb piece of junk in your yard. It is not easy coming up w/another engine.

The factory manual gives 0.6-1.2mm clearance or 0.023-0.047" clearance. IDK what the hot setup is. I would think the 0.7mm clearance is the best. You want the tooth to be in the center of the bore when measuring this clearance.

My experience with putting the S/S out whilst still in gear is that depending on how quick you put it out, it is not an instant-kill but more of a sputter-and-die. PLEASE check your oil level

Been a few years but I've got his email as will.creedon@gmail.com Hope that helps

G'day Mick Yep, back in 2011 the gap on mine was 1.4mm and reduced to 0.7mm! Cheers

Could be, but it could also be a shortcut that illuminates the light shortly. I thought the info of the rerouted wire should need some attention.

If you rerouted the wire of the side stand, you might check ifnit is not stuck and somewhat dismantled under the generator cover. Dont ask how I came up with this idea.

IDK what brand relays you have but I would consider replacing them with quality Omron relays. The oil light situation: tomorrow first thing , check your oil level. If it is good , you will want to consider an oil / filter change. use a premium filter and good oil. If you feel confident about your skill level , install a Roper plate. a very important part. That oil light doesn't accidentally come on ! AFA the fuel pump goes , they are usually good or bad...no in between. The only other problem I have seen is the fuel will start leaking from the electrical terminals. If at all possible use an OEM pump. It is the correct dimension such as diameter , length, everything. Unless someone has an aftermarket part # that will fit perfectly ?

Is there current contact information for Will Creedon? I may have one of his chips installed and have some questions.

oil could be bad news. Once happened to me with fuel starvation. I was riding in hot weather. Going for fill up but the pump was broken. Hit that starter to go to another pump, impatient and didn't let the pump prime. No start. I tried several time and no go. Pushed bike to another pump, filled the tank, and finally started.

If the oil light came on briefly it’s bad news. It is likely low on oil. Does it have a sloppage sheet fitted?

my first thought is gas. either nasty or water. depending on the level of neglect, could just be condensation. (cuz where you live) If it's been awhile you may want to drain and flush the tank.

Would the side stand cause it to sputter and then die? Or just die immediately? I didn't touch the side stand when I restarted it. I did touch the side stand switch wiring recent to clean up the routing. Relays were addressed when I got the bike. It sputtered like it was out of gas which made me think fuel pump since it had gas. But my experience with fuel pumps is they just keel over (although I've had some that you could tap with a hammer to get them to start back up).

Firstly, and easiest to check: the switch on the side-stand, the switch on the clutch, the kill-switch. All those "safety features" that will stop the motor if they have a fault. Check them and make sure there is nothing dodgy, and take it from there. Oh, and have a look inside the ignition switch. After that, the relays, primarily those involved in the safety features. But as @gstallons already wrote, there is a whole list of things it could have been. Maybe even "only" a bit of water in the fuel tank.

Red frame ? Whewwww. it could be ANYTHING . We will put on our thinking caps and come up with some suggestions and things to check !

I rode over and met some guys for lunch today. Beautiful weather. As I headed off to come back home the bike sputtered and then died. I checked and there was gas. I restarted it and it was mostly uneventful on the way home. The oil pressure light came on for a second but then immediately went out around a corner. I will admit I treat this thing like a Honda. Put gas in it and ride. There's probably a maintenance list that I'm completely ignoring. That might be catching up to me... I should probably change the oil (not because of age but miles). Or at least check to see if it has oil. I suppose my biggest fear is the original fuel pump will fail at some point. At least I think that's my biggest fear.

I am at home, with no plans to ride anywhere on 2 wheels for the forseeable future. Lots to do, and I put it back a few weeks for the tour so BACK TO WORK lol