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The history of green Moto Guzzi reportedly dates to Ing. Carcano's racing management in the late '40s and '50s. It has been said that Carcano was so obsessed with weight that he forbade painting the race bikes. Metal was left in the raw state or primed, commonly with zinc chromate (which exhibits a more greenish-yellow, perhaps the 'reference" for the metallic "Legnano Green " applied to the original Telaio Rosso V7 Sport of early to mid '70s and, later, at the introduction of the V11 Sport). What we commonly call "Tenni Green" is a luscious, rich satin spruce green (more blue-green than yellow-green) introduced on the 2002 V11 Tenni. Since then, this rich, spruce green has been applied to Stelvio, Griso, Centenary Special Editions, and now the V100 Mandello (although that "Mandello Green" looks decidedly glossier) . . . Perhaps it has become as enigmatic of "Guzzi" as our v-twin? I wonder if it is only the V11 community that refers to this as "Tenni Green?"

I asked the gentleman at Technomec how the future looks for stocking these essential parts for our bikes. He indicated that they are readily available to them, but they only sell about ten units a year. We just purchased a dozen, so in one order we broke their annual sales number.

I had some extraordinary good luck recently finding an elusive v11 part. To celebrate, and because no one wants to buy it, I'm giving away the lightened flywheel in the classifieds. First "I'll take it" posted in this thread gets it. Message your shipping address to me. It fits in a Priority Mail box. I will pay shipping to lower 48. If you are elsewhere, shipping is on you. Someone plz take this thing. Thank you.

Of course, had to get shipped to some far corner of the globe Brother-man, it is all yours. I look forward to figuring out how to ship it And, thank you. I'm tired of looking at it. FREEBIE IS GONE

In this State, the seller must sign a statement on the title transfer that the indicated odometer reading is the "actual" mileage, or that it is "not." I know of sellers that always check "not" upon transfer to be relieved of any accountability. That this action forever compromises the vehicle's history and value, of course, makes this practice just as unethical as deliberately understating the mileage.

@drossell7 As Doc suggested, only send the instrument to Joel, nothing else. For the record, since Joel fixed mine, it is still working fine. From 8000 miles to today's 25,000 miles. Mine was fixed in 2021.

Pay no attention. That was no doubt cut and pasted (using real scissors and paste) from the early spineys that didn't have grease zerks.

A friend of mine here in Norway bouth this insert for his V11 Sport Rosso Mandello. He bought it from Australia. Forgetting that they drive (mostly) on the left side of the roads. After a few days testing - he found out that the light did not work well when driving on the norwegian right sides of the roads. So this advertisment is mainly for UK and Australia (pluss any other country that drives on the left side of the roads). Price would be 75 Euros + shipping. According to the box, it has the following text: D2D Honda CB LED 7" replacement Headlight with Park light (Honda: CB125, CB400, CB500, CB900, CB1300, Hornet 250, Hornet 600, Hornet 900) According to what he paid for it - this price should be very attractive.

Those do look nice, and the model for motorcycles allows you to buy a single unit for a reasonable price: VCm3 - 7 INCH LED HEADLIGHT KIT - Vintage Car LEDs

No, the term is also in use in the German forum.

Replacement 20,000 km seemed a little ambitious but reasonable. They feel fine to me with no grit or slop. My bike seems to have been loved by its previous owners. I'm confident running them as is with fresh grease, but I think I'm going to pick up a pair or two and stick them on the shelf anyhow.

Thanks docc..I have my painter on it!

@KINDOY2, any luck with the BASF Glasurit Tenni Green code that @p6x linked to @michael8888's 2013 post: Stock#: 907250 the paint is the GLASURIT- 55 FORMULA

I'd be interested in a pair as well if we could get enough people together to put in a second order.

Yes please. If Pay Pal is ok, shipping is on me. Cheers Tom.

Check out Vintage car leds. Excellent H4 bulbs, also 7inch headlights, not looking to space aged. Cheers Tom.

V7 Legnano Green Paint Code.docx

Thanks for the quick response. Was nervous about pulling these out fearing I might create a bigger problem. -Dave

Says 700 on the listing...no fade on the tach. Looks good!

Check your PM's.

That small windshield is pretty effective.

Slainte

If the plugs are that dark, I wouldn't conclude that it is running lean.

I like me a nice derrière! This is a bewitching, voluptuous Italian woman bike full of character, none of that dolled up skinny ass tramp living on carrots and kale...

Today I decided to finally load Meinolf's V11 Bin map after 4 years! Anyway, after downloading it again since my original link had expired, managed to get all connected. Guzzidiag v60 connected perfectly just like it does for my Norge and Griso...no issues recognizing port or Guzzi specific model...up and running we go. Most current Reader working perfectly, saved my original Bin to my laptop. Most current Writer working perfectly, uploaded the new Bin to the ECU and dialed in the air bleed screws entirely (as per Meinolf's guidelines). Took it for a spin around the block...clearly a different animal entirely in terms of torque curve and smoother acceleration, but noticeably lower idle speed than I had with the stock Bin map. I haven't adjusted any idle screws or linkage between the throttle bodies so those are all the same. Followed the rest of Meinolf's instructions, but can't seem to get my CO Trim to move from the current setting of +20 to zero or for that matter any other number. Have tried a dozen times with various settings/switches on/off, always trying to set it to Zero (to align to Meinolf's settings), hit Finish and it just stays there...minutes go by and no further prompts coming from Guzzidiag. Bike is on a tender while I'm doing all of this so I'm getting full power...am starting to wonder if the battery which is in good shape is somehow the culprit? I have no stored faults of any sort, have read this every time. Read thru as many CO Trim and Meinolf specific map threads as I could find. I don't have TunerPro so I have no path to doing this mod via the EPROM process. Scratching my head...someone clue me in on what I'm doing wrong please! Thank you!

170 miles…really smooth and cool temp ride today. The Meinolf map is a massive improvement over the stock map I had in the bike. To be fair I don’t know with certainty that it is a stock OEM map since it’s what the bike has had since I bought it almost 7 years ago. However, this Meinolf map is deliciously smooth, can ride at 70-80 mph and no vibrations at all…power seems to come surging on between 4-7k rpm, very different from the rather flat power delivery of the prior map. Really enjoyable ride and results!

It may be perfect and if not, it's just more money and time. Yep, they ride great and look great. They can be a little temperamental given that we have an entire website forum community keeping these voluptuous minxes on the road (I won't call them "fat"). Doubtful you see a deeper, more diverse, low density community than this one. Most of the stuff you'll need done has come from here, like the bellhousing bracket, shift springs, Roper plate and the like. Talk about dedication. We ride 'em too, Docc's got 100+k miles on his, mine's broken 50k.

Mate If you don't buy it someone else WILL...... And yep she may give you a bit of grief initially but treat it as the Initiation! Cheers

Here are the pictures I have. I have not yet gone to look at the bike in person. Thanks.

A few things I can see from the one image: Very clean surface condition, original right side brake levers intact (a good sign it has remained upright on that side, especially since there is an aftermarket headguard which, sometimes, can suggest a tip-over), original turn signals including the front "extensions, a nice custom seat that was built to retain the passenger seat cover, rear "hugger" and swingarm tips intact, tank/chin-pad and side plate eagle all look in good shape. There appears to be a period correct factory accessory Stucchi Luigi-made color-matched front flyscreen and some nice (perhaps Mistral?) exhaust canisters. The rear fender has been cut off below the license plate and the clip-ons converted to handlebars (which causes an odd throttle cable routing). For whatever reason , the clutch and front brake fluid reservoirs look painted fat black (I would prefer to see the level and condition of those fluids). [edit: those look like soft covers over the reservoirs. I am not sure why people do that.] There is some wiring hanging below the right sidecover that I would endeavor to investigate. A left side image, plus an image of the instruments. and a clear image of what is under the seat would be very helpful . . .

Update: All fixed! Finally had some time to get back to the project, have been busy at work and riding the Tour of Texas and other activities so the Scura was sitting waiting for attention. Anyway, a few weeks ago at Gstallons recommendation I took my fuel injectors to get reconditioned...that was excellent advice and both were in need of it, but the left one in particular was quite under performing vs. the right one. All of the other items, wires, coils all checked out nicely with no need to replace but I had bought spares anyway just in case. At any rate, after all kinds of fun cleaning the throttle bodies once they were off, sorting out stripped screws on several of the mounting spots, putting in new hex head screws where appropriate, I got it all re-assembled, set the new TPS adjusted properly at 157 mv fully closed with throttle disconnected, high idle screw loose and idle screw backed out (TPS measures 4.78v at WOT w/o linkage connected) and the tuning began again. What I found: The air bleed screws needed to be set differently from left vs. right and in all of my previous attempts I had kept them identical as per all of the prior write ups. Playing with each of the settings and watching the results on the Carbtune, despite cleaning the throttle bodies thoroughly and the bleed screws as well, there's some inherent mismatch on the throttle bodies, that with an extra 1.5 turns out on the RHS vs. LHS, they balance perfectly at idle without the throttle body linkage connected and it idles beautifully and no cough either. I managed to set the idle screws at almost identical levels as well w/o the linkage connected using a feeler gauge technique Gstallons had recommended. Once the connecting rod was reconnected and dialed in until just one or two threads were showing from the locknut vs. the plastic cup, the bike maintained its balance at idle and was perfectly balanced also at 3k RPM's on the Carbtune. Well...off on a test run we go, around the block seems perfect, so let's go for a longer run. A 100 miles later on a cold Houston day, and it's absolute perfection, beautifully smooth, not a single cough of any sort, and feels like much lower vibrations than before. Dare I say it runs better than before...I believe so. Will get some more runs on it over the next day and weeks and hopefully it stays as good as today. Big thanks to all and especially Gstallons for the time we spent on the phone...hopefully it's set and I can rack up some more miles on it now!

You guys have great taste in music. I've learned a lot here. Ciao

I like what Jerry Douglas is doing, adding horns and going uptempo . . .

Wait till you hear her start to sing...

I cross-posted michael's post to FAQ for future reference. Well done!

Thanks but not really Tenni green...