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Somewhere I have pictures from the Lillington location. The kind of pictures you can hold in your hand. I need to look for them. And met Dave Blue at an Oregon Guuzi event a few years ago. Which cements NC and OR as the centers of the universe. True fact.

What happened to the Moto Guzzi America group in Lillington and Angier NC? Did it dissolve after the Aprilla take over? I lost track of the group when I moved back to LA from NC. Since I was a long time customer of Pro Italia (since it started in the 80's) I went back there. I purchased a beautiful Jackal from them. It was done for a magazine article. Mostly it was improved with a dual front brake system, a lightened flywheel and a custom paint job. It was a fabulous bike.

Last year on Italian Day at Portland Cars & Coffee was a motorcycle mega-load! But @activpop is eager to make a big showing from the V11 Sport crew this year. Sadly I can't commit yet but I hope some other folks can make it. @MotoKnee and @Gmc28 have been listed as possible attendees. For the details if you've never been before it's not actually in Portland... it's in Sherwood at Langers. 21650 SW Langer Farms Pkwy, Sherwood, OR 97140 It's a little tricky as you need to line up on Century Drive before 8am. Look for a slew of Ferraris and Lambos, plus a smattering of Alfas and Fiats. Something will show up that you've never seen before. Given that there are around 20 registered V11 Sport forum members in this area at least a few should be able to make it.

Had this 2001 since February. Found it with only 6K miles. Rode it another 6K since then and love it. Currently having some electrical issues, which I'm sure will get sorted out before too long.

Will find out the name of the professor. I prefer beer . Cheers Tom.

Evoluzione?! Italiano

After having a BMW for 20k miles now, and a little history, it's my belief that BMW and MG have worked closely together for some time; not partnership, but fundamentals. In the beginning of the Italian V-twin era, I think everyone saw how sound the BMW flat twin was, the shaft drive, and removed the biggest impediment to racing them- the flatness. Plus, being Mountain Italians they gave them frames that worked and of course instantly recognized the romantic sound. Looking at the Lambretta frame above, it's clear that it's very similar to Aermacchi frames. I think the Bavarians and ItAlpians went to the same schools. Or ski trips, or wars, or something.

I squeeze the juice of half a lemon into a 500ml bottle of lightly sparkling water for my hydration during the week.... Weekends a good Shiraz does the trick!

Transfer punches ==> HFT

The story about froozen water came from a professor on water in the US. Name possible to obtain. Many for real stories about persons with health issues, PSA#'s ,diabetes ++ getting back to normal. Don't take words from a heden like me, but it's for free, an even taste better.. Took me over 70year to understand water is needed . So when I get up, 1/2 litre of froozen water and coffe of course. I sound like a health freak now. He he, absolutely not . Cheers Tom.

Sounds solid to me.

Again, more confirmation through our good man, @v11_meticcio, with images and reference to the origins of our V11 motor from the SALA MOTORI (engine room) of the Moto Guzzi museo in Mandello . . .

The best methodology for putting Titanio canisters, grey Ballabio frame sideplates, and Rosso Mandello valve covers on your LeMans is to buy all those V11, rearrange the parts to your liking and keep them all. Seriously, let's ask the other inmates on the ward if that sounds crazy.

Awesome. So as Phil said early, the headlight circuit is the voltage reference source, and the regulator actually uses reference to turn the lamp on and off, not a simple balancing act. So now there are 2 considerations, the reverence voltage and the delivery voltage. Easy enough to verify reference, via connectors all the way to the regulator. If the reference matches battery voltage *with key on*, then it's a delivery problem; that has 2 elements, the VR itself and the delivery circuit.

As for the first: I'm still thinking of a bad connection. The alternator seems to be doing it's thing, but it seems the volts aren't getting to the regulator. The only thing is that the charge light isn't coming on when the key is turned on. As far as I understand it, it must if it is lighting up at higher revs. Don't know what's going on there. To the second point, I've attempted to attach a PDF from @Kiwi_Roy of the original regulator. It seems to be a lamp balancing act. Whether or not the Electrosport regulator/rectifier works the same way, I don't know. Regulator Schematic - Basic.pdf

I don't think it was Aprilia that moved MGNA from NC, but Piaggio (who moved operations to New York, IIRC).

Ok, let's get serious. Documented points of failure; 30a fuse, fuse holder, wire terminals Charge wire to battery Yellow gen-to-VR wires (I had this one, and the bike I have up right now shows heat burns at the junction, even though they've had the connectors eliminated) Since you have a non-stock VR, let's have a pic so we can see the wires; I have a Shindengen on my Aermacchi, it has 3 yellow inputs, a ground, and a battery charge wire. There is no separate sensor wire, or 'illumination' wire for a charge lamp. Yours must have a lamp wire? To test a wire where there is no access, you have to puncture it- not a fan. Your generator is making voltage, you still seem worried about how high it is; a permanent magnet generator makes voltage as a function of RPM so it's normal and nothing to worry about. The next steps are; 1. See that generator voltage is received at the VR. I would allow the assumption that if you make a firm connection at the yellow wire junctions, this is true. 2. See that the VR is giving 13.5-15volts DC as near to the VR as you can measure- the first connection. You can measure this without disconnecting the VR from the system. 3. If the VR has voltage, you have to confirm voltage without drop across every connection and wire all the way to the battery. You need a test light for this, as a DMM can measure open circuit voltage that has no amperage and you can't tell. A test lamp demands current to light. The DMM can measure voltage drop across a connection, you should never have more than *-.05v* across any connection. Between the two devices you can chase the fault all the way back to the battery. If the VR never makes more than 13v, or if it makes above 15, it's suspect but still subject to measuring voltage across faulty connections. A good starting place is the fuse block. Every fuse should always have full battery voltage. If you find that any fuse measures less voltage than the battery itself, either key off or engine running, you have a faulty connection. Have a good look at the ring terminals that attach to the battery itself, to see that they're not corroded beneath the insulation.

I kinda agree with Phil. I would treat the header itself as the head guard. But that is me. Either way, sweet Guzzi Tomchri. I like it.

I will install heat shrink butt connectors from the stator yellow wires to the reg and report back. The stator came from Electrosport with 16GA female spade connectors, fwiw. Thanks.

Long thread, forgive me as I haven't read it. Having just gone through this, I chased so many items, spent unnecessary amounts on new parts, only to find that a power wire directly to the battery fixed all my problems. I now have thousands of miles of confirmation under me. To be fair, Electrosport advises this additional wire, and they were right. This probably would have fixed my charging problem even with all of the OEM parts as well.

I don't think those bulbs are LED. I have owned the bike since February, put 7K miles on it since then, and the lamps have been functioning correctly until a week or so ago, when the charge light started coming on at 4K rpm. This is when I replaced both the stator and the regulator. After checking the DC volts at the battery this morning, and seeing the same volts (12.3) both at idle AND at 3-4K rpm, I will now look again at the stator AC output to the regulator and report back.

What coincidence! There was in Italday in the Netherlands too yesterday: https://www.italdag.nl/ Sadly, I couldn't make it this year. Fun meet, with lots of special Ital bikes.

This came up today on the Cafe Racer Magazine Instagram feed. Thought it was perfect to post under "Origins of the V11 [emoji56] Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Yes, comment te dire adieu.

Yes, complicated for a novice but as easy as it can be while being complete. I'm hoping for something obvious like the charge wire, but it's starting to feel like a bad component. I wish it was clear whether the lamp wire is a voltage sense source, or simply a lamp balancing act.

Plugs to stock harness, has charge lamp circuit. Should be a no-brainer. 'Still collating data', Ash would say.

So that would be the one behind this link. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a lot in the way of documentation on the site. https://www.electrosport.com/collections/street-motorcycles-moto-guzzi-2001-v11-sport/products/esr515-regulator-rectifier-ducati-1-phase-charge-light-output

To each their own. But my experience is that faster speeds don't mean less force to the head, in fact the opposite can be true. A crash at speed can be a nice smooth low side, in which case less force to the head is likely vs just falling over from vertical. But, as mentioned, to each their own. If you knew how you were going to crash perhaps a better choice would be not to crash....

Premature Component Failure . . .

Feh, I'm far more likely to tip it over in the gravel parking lot at zero mph than to actually crash it. If I tip over, saved the pipes. If I crash it, I doubt the head guards will add much to the bill, and might save the pipe. And at least currently, the heads are available whereas Daytona heads, not so much.

Ah, yes, that system is not charging at the battery at all. It should be 13.8-14.2vDC at some rpm, idle somewhat lower, but not that low. Those yellow alternator connectors do benefit from a clean, tighten, and seal. Some folks eliminate the connectors and hard wire there to eliminate that potential trouble spot. Still a mystery why there is no battery light KOEO. I am still suspecting an open connection somewhere: across the 30 fuse or an errant ring terminal that got left off either the positive or negative battery terminal. Also, cannot rule out a faulty new part (R/R). There's a name for that . . .

Did Guzzi make other models? I was not aware.

1) 13v 2)12.8v 3)12.3v 4)12.3v Light is off at 1,2,and 3 Light only comes on when revved to 3-4K RPM

If you still have a Roper Plate , I am interested .

And don't get it mixed up with the Shin Etsu...

Thanks for the replies. Im told it had has 'Extensive revamp last winter by MG UK club member including new head bearings, brakes/forks re-sealed and electrics sorted. Koni Dial-a-Ride rear shocks. Mods include PHF36 Dell'Orto carbs with K&N filters, Sache electronic ignition, full stainless exhaust system, stainless brake lines, centre-mount propstand'. The electrics do look to have been upgraded but the fairing has been removed. It is there but needs work. There is only 33000 miles on it. I have asked about the sump extension. Thanks Mark

Almost forgot to notice it's not a MG lol

Yeah, man: Carl Allison ( @callison ), also archived on thisoldtractor under "Resources": https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/pdfs/1999_V11_sport.pdf @Weegie has also archived content in his dropbox:

Oh, one other thing. Unless the rings are bedded perfectly or the bores have been changed to Nicasil it will need a sump extension and the oil moved away from the crank otherwise it will pressurise the case too much and fill the airbox with oil. After a few miles at higher speed it will suddenly go B-l-a-a-a-a-hhhhhhhhh! and slow down while producing a cloud of smoke like a WWII destroyer laying a smokescreen! It’s very disconcerting when it happens. First time it happened to me was on a motorway in blighty! I thought it had blown up! I pulled over, waited a few minutes and it fired right up, the smoke cleared and it was like nothing had happened! I rode off and a few miles later it did it again! I had no idea what was happening, I was only about 22 at the time and new to Guzzi but luckily someone showed me the breather system and explained it and it all made sense! After fitting the sump extension it never did it again. Crankcase pressurisation has long been a Guzzi bugbear. It effects the 1200-8V’s as well and they too will pump oil out if you try to keep it at the ‘Full’ mark on the stick.

It's funny you mention that. My mesh jacket bothers my right elbow, but not my left. My left bursa was removed decades ago...idk if both would be bothered if I still had it. Wearing a long sleeve shirt makes it a lot better, but in the summer sometimes you don't want even that on. My thicker jackets don't bother me, just the thinner one.

That ticks a lot of boxes! Perhaps a close inspection of the ring terminals at the battery to be certain none got left off. As silly as that sounds, it has happened to a lot of us.

My first big block was an SP1000, I’ve owned a couple more over the years. They are yer basic, small valve, short head Tonti from the late seventies/early eighties and have one of the best and most effective fairings ever put on a motorbike. They are a mile muncher par excellence and will sit all day at 85-90mph. Most important thing to remember is that they are now all 40-45 years old and, unless they have been loved and refurbished, will invariably need work. Most likely things are frame bearings, all of them and a UJ support bearing and possibly a UJ. Fork dampers and shocks will need replacing if they haven’t been already. A camchain and tensioner for the motor at a bare minimum and the carburettors will be shagged out. Expect to buy a wiring loom from Greg Bender and replace the original that will likely crumble to dust when you touch it! My last one I built a mid valve 950 motor with a K cam in it and ran 36mm PHF carbs. It had an 8/33 bevelbox and an Eldorado flywheel. It was an absolute hoot! My mate Steve from Moruya owns it now. It’s a peach!

Any time you strap something down to a trailer (your bike, a lawnmower, your wife), you have to bless it with the words "That ain't going nowhere." Otherwise it might get loose.

As our late member Mikko, once told me, "You cannot have too much securement ."

The engine is smooth at relaxed speeds, but not as smooth as a BMW. It really wakes up and shows it's full character over 5,000 RPM. It has less vibration than the 1200 air cooled Stelvio, which is totally fine with me. I've heard some people say that it lost the Moto Guzzi character, but I'd disagree, it's just a bit more refined. I'd also heard people say the engine is rev-happy, but I think it's still a mid-range motor. Although its happy place is a little higher up in revs than the 1200 Stelvio's. The engine block is sooo much smaller than the prior block - but some of that forward space is now taken up by a radiator. And in person, at least to me, it has that special something that makes me look back at it when walking away after a ride.

Thats very cool 😎 and has some nice chassis design going on. Engine is a stressed member by the looks

The original V7 from ‘67 made about 38 at the rear wheel on a very good day at sea level on a cool day with a very high pressure cell hanging around. The 750 Herron head smallblock made much the same but was lighter. If a V85 makes much more than 55-60 I’ll eat my hat!

Too big. They should use one of the smaller Piaggio singles to chase custom. Better yet an electric vehicle.

That's my favorite! Not sure if it's a silver bike with a black tank or a black bike with silver fenders. If there was only 15 of these things made, they are rarer than a Tenni! I'll start the bidding at $11,500