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if taken to a shop that repairs speedos , they gently pry off the chrome ring and able to reuse it. The alternative is ruining the ring and possibly breaking the glass... ask me how i know

Did a quick run, brake works again....will finish the pipes tomorrow. Love this bike!

I put my isolation blocks back together with a toluene based contact adhesive (commonly available as "Goop" or "Shoe Goo" here in The States). Replacement isolation blocks can probably be had from McMaster-Carr.

That's my favorite! Not sure if it's a silver bike with a black tank or a black bike with silver fenders. If there was only 15 of these things made, they are rarer than a Tenni! I'll start the bidding at $11,500

Here is one of the most recent discussion on the subject. It’s about the tachometer but I think you will find useful information in there on how to go about opening up and repairing instrument gauges.

Sounds about right the way I ride. Just humming down the highway at steady rpm, I would expect a little higher, but not much. Lucky Phil has shared the astute observation that the ECU runs an enrichening map every restart regardless of engine/ambient temperature. Multiple restarts will degrade fuel economy. A couple things you could try: First would be to defeat the Power Commander. It is not unlikely it was set up to add fuel. Pete Roper has reminded us repeatedly what a bad idea this is. Easy to defeat the PC, see how it rides and check mpg. Always easy to recommend the entire Decent Tune-up. Make absolute certain the TPS is accurately indexed. You have used Guzzidiag to check/set the CO Fuel Trim? Where do you keep tire pressures?

Here's one more silver bike. Not sure why the front fender is black plastic.

For what it's worth, when I have to glue something important that's rubber- particularly to metal- I use 3M weatherstrip & emblem adhesive. I can't say I've had failures with Shoe Goo or Gorilla Glue, but I feel better using a product with these specific materials in mind.

I get 200 to a tank. Your fuel light gives you a range of near 60 miles I find. So that ties in with your figures. I have had mine down to 28 mp/ukg on a proper hoon!

Thanks for the links. After seeing whats inside I'm not going to touch them.

Art , you are at the right place . Feel free to post as much as you want . Everyone is here to help .

It's not hanging on the shaft. You are seeing the dust lip part of the seal riding on the chamfer of the output spline seal running surface. The oil seal lip is internally behind that and not visible. Phil

NO idling Cheers Tom.

G'day Yes you just unplug the PC111 and replug connecter back into ecu... I did this years ago when having running issues and we flicked between Pc in /out to try and diagnose. I also recommend getting rid of the PC111 and having ecu remapped/flashed. As for mileage I'm now getting 250 kays to a tank before the light flickers on, but this is droning down the freeway. Cheers Guzzler

I'm conducting a fuel test now, not sure if my fuel light even works. I have about 150 miles on the tank thus far, no light yet. I've started to carry a litre of fuel in my backpack... My new work commute is 25 miles one way, nearly all freeway so this won't take long to determine my numbers, although I don't ride every day. It's actually been raining a bunch in SoCal.

OOOhhhh the rod , yeah it will just drop out , put it back in , you're good !

The piston rod can fall out, but if no brake fluid follows, then just put it back. If fluid comes out then you have a different problem

Is this a form of extortion / kidnapping ? I don't remember us putting the finishing touches on your bike and comparing the Guzzidiag to a TPS reading ? BTW , the SnapOn scanner has a 4 channel scope too !

Lennon Clapton Mitchell Richards. 1968 feeling nostalgic lately

Just want to say, for the record, that changing the TPS setting based upon GuzziDiag, at idle, is a shot in the dark (unpredictable outcomes). Whatever the TPS reads, at idle (whether in voltage or "Degrees of Opening), is fine as long as the V11 starts and idles happily. Nut Brown Ale time ! Cheers, Tom!

I just bought one of these too GUZZIDIAG JPDIAG DUCATIDIAG TUNEECU KIT - KL-1TALIA (3 Pin Connection) - USB-C Cable

Progress! Does that address the presenting issue of the trip odometer not working when you got the bike, or is that internal to the mechanism? (Common issue)

The TPS is not set with GuzziDiag, only with a quality voltmeter with the right throttle plate fully and completely closed. The ECU does not output a value at this level, so GuzziDiag cannot see it. This indexes the actual/physical throttle position to the ECU fuel/ignition mapping. The 157mV value is critical. "More is not better !" Once the first five steps of the Decent Tune-up have been performed (plugs/valve adj; TPS baseline; CO Fuel Trim; Air Bypass Screws; Throttle Body synch), set the idle rpm (TPS degrees open/TPS voltage) wherever you, your V11, and your traffic/temperature conditions like best. That "535mV" target is just not significant. FWIW, my last (faulty) TPS struggled to allow mySport to idle above 1000 rpm. New TPS, careful baseline setting, and idling happily at 1400 rpm. Sure, a lot of people think that is too high. But not if you ask mySport.

You shouldn't have to do that. Guzzidiag runs on Linux and Mac computers as well.

Ok, I defeated the PCIII and will give that a go for a while. Will look for the guzzidiag thread and order a cable.

The shaft is now 3/8 shorter, but I've got a piece of hose to stick on the end. Added a bit of brass where a grommet probably once lived. As a bonus the white needle on a white background has been fixed???

35/40 is what I use as well. AFAIK, yes, you can unplug the PC and plug the connector back into the ECU. Having recently performed a full Decent Tune-up (and TPS replacement), my fuel economy went up about 3 mpg.

from last Friday

Yep I had the same issue years ago and they were glued back. Not had any issues since but don't know what glue Rob used. Cheers

I like the shoe goo solution, thanks.

Gtstallons, Doc, everyone thank you! All I need to do now is mount the new Mistrals which I'll do tomorrow. Love and respect.

Nevermind....got here loose...breaker bar it was! Love this bike!

Bring it to the Nineteenth South'n Spine Raid !

I can pry the forward UJ through openings in the shield, to pull the gbox shaft in and out almost 2mm. It needs a lot more than hand pressure. I expect that all the suspension movement that loads the driveshaft in rapid compression/tension is all taken by the sliding joint in the middle of the shaft. It would be a disaster if the gearbox is exposed to suspension movement. I'm going to give all 3 nipples another squirt of grease to make sure.

Hi, @Art ! You're in the right place to enjoy your Sport! Exhaust is stainless steel. Those are factory headers, but looks like the crossover is aftermarket (maybe Mistral?). Those are not the canisters that came on the 2000 Sport, but pretty sure they are stock (LaFranchoni) cans from a later V11. If so, the carbon fiber is "wrap." Here is a thread from early-on with some discussion:

Tullahoma, Tennessee, near the downtown Veteran's Memorial Park I visited today.

Nine months later? There is a little twinkle in your eye. Don't need the details...

Everyone wants to say the V11 is heavy. Depends, I guess. My first liter bike was a first-year GoldWing. I pared it down to a sport-tour trim. Not to the degree shown below, but that big valve, big carb, hot cam, first year motor was a rippin' delight! At 650 pounds it makes the V11 Sport a comparative lightweight . . .

Ah, yes, the Honda VFR 750 F. The "Ice Queen" So much like the V11 Sport on paper (tires, size, weight, power, purpose). Such different ladies "on the dance floor" . . . Ms. Vanilla had to go . . . I went to balance her carbs once and heard her say, "Don't touch me ."

Lovely bike...a friend had a 1000 Interceptor also back in 1985/86 that he let me ride often enough while I was at the university. I've often thought about finding one again...that bike was intoxicating, smooth and far too fast! Ripping around the streets of La Jolla and surrounding San Diego towns on it was amazing!

Thanks docc. I've had that recommended to me as a "must do". From the same person came the recommendation, while one is messing around in the general area, to put a thickish washer under the tab at the back of the tank. The purpose of this is to provide a little more clearance between the tank and the sidecovers. Apparently there can be contact there, with associated wear and tear on the expensive plastic bits. I haven't done either of those things yet, but a closer look at the bike confirmed that both would seem to be a good idea.

Thanks.. Switch fitted, new oil, new fuel tank to pump fuel line seems ok too. All good now..lights out as it should be.

Yes, I saw that too. As I said, I'm not fussed about it not being included as I have enough of them already. However, I assume they would probably send me one if I complained about it. Two good reasons to buy there, I reckon. They're staying on the case, and they seem to have a good record.

The owner of this 2002 Lemans is located here in NC, and posts in the MGNOC Facebook group, but isn't a member here. He gave me permission to repost the photos of his 2 year project to rework the 2002 into his cafe-style retro vision. Here is a link to the Facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/groups/mgnoc/permalink/10162477829008709/ I've asked him a few questions about the major components you'll see such as the wire wheels, metal (aluminum?) tank, and fairing. So far he's been able to share the following about the wheels... he had them built, in this case from a 1999 California's rims ensuring they were wheels with the dual disc brakes, removed the hubs and had the hubs powder coated, had a custom rear axle spacer made, and then Buchanan's Spoke & Rim (https://www.buchananspokes.com/) laced the hubs to Excel rims for about $800USD. Below is the "before" photo, then the bike with its new wire wheels

Love the early silver V11’s. Yours has black side panels & fender, please remind me was this a special edition?

Perhaps it is the color "the V11 was drawn from" by Luciano Marabese .

I've got a few things to fix while waiting for a Voltage regulator to be delivered. Both coils are flopping around in the frame. They appear to have rubber mounts that have broken. Should be easy to zip tie down with some bits of rubber. Is there anything to watch out for such as cooling?