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If you have the time and skills, here's a design using 2 hall effect sensors and neutral SW inputs. https://www.electronics-lab.com/project/motorcycle-universal-gear-indicator/ Of course it can't figure out any missed shifts and false neutrals, so you may find it showing 7th gear

My Bitubo was mostly empty with weepy seals. As a matter of exploration, I disassembled and cleaned it, with attention to the seals. Refilled with fork oil and it's been perfect for a few years since.

63..All the Way

Engine braking is notoriuously hard on all the splines of a Guzzi. In my day job selling Guzzi parts and my morning job fixing Guzzis, I see so many hammered splines that I normally recommend that Guzzi riders avoid engine braking altogether. This is especially true for all the early (and some late) Guzzis that lacked a cush drive in the rear wheel. Even on those with a cush drive, I recommend against engine braking unless you are sure the cush drive is actually functional. I've seen a ton of them that are so rusty that they do nothing at all to absorb shock. A few weekends ago while swooping through the delirious roads around Mt. St. Helens I found myself compression braking out of necessity because the roads were so beaten up and frost-heavey and washed out, with patches of gravel in the washouts. After 50 or so miles, I just gave up trying to avoid compression braking and learned to enjoy it again and decided that I would allow myself its pleasures, but only on the Ballabio. And I decided that if I was going to compression brake, I'd seek to limit the damage by better making sure Billy Bob's cush drive was as good as it could be. The V11 Sport's cush drive is almost identical to the cush drives on the other Guzzis. It works OK when it is properly lubed but quickly siezes up from rust if neglected. And its action can be vastly improved with a little modification of its parts. The cush drive consists of a main dive-spline plate with six vanes on its backside, 12 rubber wedges to absorb the shock, and a retaining ring fastened to the wheel by six buttonhead screws. The first step was to take it apart. I used my usual technique for buttonheads (which stip easily): 1) heat on the head of the screw for one minute with a MAPP gas torch; 2) insert the appropriate sized allen socket into the screw and give it a wallop with a hammer to shock it loose; and 3) turn out the screw with a ratchet wrench. Two of the screws were loose already. Two others cam right out. The final two took 45 minutes of heating and pounding and cursing. I finally had to drive them out by chiseling a shoulder into the buttonhead and driving them around with a punch. Both fought every turn of the way. It wasn't loctite; it was corrosion between the threads. This on a 2004-model bike that has been in service just 26 months. The photo above is actually after re-assembly but shows the brutalized buttonheads. The photo above shows the vanes on the back of the cush-drive plate. Each vane rests between two rubber wedges in the wheel hub, providing cush under the go and slow regimes. As on most Guzzi cush drives I've ever disassembled, this one was all rusty and on the verge of siezing up. In the i.d. of the center hole is a spiral groove that's supposed to hold grease to keep it all lubed. Instead, it was packed with rust and was fretting away at the mating flange on the wheel. Again, after just over 2 years in service. The picture shows it after I'd cleaned off the rust. Also, the rubber pucks themselves had all the give of chome-moly steel. There is a way to soften them up, though, so they do a better job absorbing shocks: Drill holes in them, as shown in the photo below. You can drill them with normal twist bits, but the better way to do it is with an improvised hollow drill, which cuts a core sample from the puck. I improvised one by using the hollow punches that came with an el cheapo gasket-punch set I got from Harbor Freight years ago. These cut a neat hole and have a slot in the side, which makes them sef-cleaning, as shown below. I like to make my drives even cushier by leaving out half the puck pairs. Some might be concerned that this puts too much strain on the three vanes that slip between the three remaining pairs of pucks. Certainly, it does put extra strain on them, but I think they are tough enough to handle it, and I haven't seen nor heard of any any failures in cush drives so modified. What it does give you is a cush drive that works so well the bike feels smoother. And it causes more of the shock loads to be taken by the rubber of the pucks, rather than the steel of your splines. So, then you just grease everything well. I use Redline synth grease on the steel parts, and dielectric silicone grease on the rubber. Then, put antisize liberally on all the retainer buttonhead screws so they do not sieze again, fit each screw with a new schnorr washer, fasten it all together, install it on the bike, and go for a ride. There's a change you can really feel. Rubbery and smooth. And you'll sleep better knowing your bike's splines are protected well.

Even some of you will be disappointed in me, but I had to share this with someone that could understand. Having now put over a 1,000 miles on my V11, I've grown much more used to the bike. On my 25 mile all freeway commute yesterday, I passed a few cars and was enjoying all of our roll-on acceleration. When I looked down at my speedo, I was surprised to see it damn near the end of measurement! I was doing 130mph! The crazy thing is, the bike was still pulling so hard, I really didn't think I was going that fast. I've wondered what top speed is but now I know the stock speedo won't be able to report whatever that is. Boy, that felt good!

Thanks for posting that link, @GuzziMoto. I pinned that thread in "How to . . ."

So how long does it take to hit 140 and back to legal? I would think the odds of getting caught are pretty slim. I've got a few more miles to log before I try.

It was great to see Binder up there, and it sucked that he made the same mistake twice. But still a good finish for him. It was strange to see Martin right behind binder make the same mistake, maybe slightly more so, and not cop a penalty. I think that came down to Martin not already having a strike against him from earlier in the race. Marc looks to be in deep trouble. He seems spooked, like the way JLo was after a while on the Honda. Once the fear sets in, it is hard to shake. Many can't. Marc can't seem to get away with the mistakes he used to get away with. Curious to see if he can overcome the fear and get his confidence back. Also bummed for Miller. I would love to see him do better. But great ride from Aleix.

Here is a thread about it.

The early V11 forks have adjusters on top for compression and rebound adjustments. But they do nothing because the cartridges have two large bypass holes that allow the fork oil to bypass the valving in the pistons. The valving doesn't have any noticeable effect until the piston has gone past the bypass holes in its stroke, which is pretty much not until the final inch of travel. By blocking off one of the two holes you start forcing oil through the valving in the piston, making the adjusters relevant as well. It has been mentioned over the years on here. I don't think it applies to an '03. But I could be wrong.

Marquez pulled out of the race. That's 2 in a row...

You say that V11 engine noise a bit clogged? Nah… she’s fine mate! You’re good to go

Understood.

Quite. Unless they ingest some horrible shite why would they wear out? They're probably the best lubricated thing in a motor!

What I did today: gave the V11 a run. Once again only about 80km, once again lots of fun. I'm still not really satisfied with the state it is in, but I just couldn't resist going for a ride. The starting problem, see here https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/28565-starter-button/ didn't show up today, so that is good. Also good: the fuel light was just starting to glow as I arrived home. Since I still haven't had the tank off, and plan on doing that as soon as possible, it is good that the tank is empty. I hope to get onto that this week, but that depends a bit on the new hose for the breather system arriving soon.

It's very, very unlikely to be oil pump. Possibly a loose filter or the old filter gasket wasn't removed when the filter was last changed.

Man, I would so re-seat that left throttle body into the intake rubber and restart, if even briefly. The very low idle from the dislodged throttle body could be all there is to the oil light. My recent Horrible Noise Story: At the Kentucky SpineRaid, I had (somehow) mis-set my new TPS (like nine steps off on the map, 95 mV instead of 157). At idle the beating, banging mechanical noise was deftly disturbing. At start-up to head home, @kalev11's eyes got wide. He said some thing like, "I hope you actually get back home." Turns out, with the TPS indexed that far off, the battering of the motor trying to run was alarming. While this case is not the same, a throttle body off its runner could be the culprit . . .

I suppose I prefer posting technical inquiries in dedicated, specific topics. That often will focus comments and links and help clarify our knowledge base. It takes a bit longer for the poster to find a starting point, but I think the outcome is more valuable. Often, someone will bring back an old thread and it gets refreshed with newer discoveries and the comments of newer members. Those "on-topic" threads are great resources for trying to learn some particular aspect of these V11. Just my opinion. Y'all carry on . . .

And still you do not know what gear you are in...

First hits on a simple interweb search - $150 USD in stock & free shipping but still 10 days to delivery.. https://www.amazon.com/ODYSSEY-PC545-Odyssey-Powersports-Battery/dp/B0002ILK7M/ref=asc_df_B0002ILK7M/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312158603728&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2058616583377164700&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032001&hvtargid=pla-424860345118&psc=1 Or this, $150 + shipping - ships on Monday. https://www.jegs.com/i/Odyssey Batteries/501/PC545/10002/-1?year=2001&make=HARLEY DAVIDSON POWERSPORTS&model=FXDWG2&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqNqkBhDlARIsAFaxvwwpaCq_FirbrBAA9PNWRgFBZJf5HbzkQFxmaVUKFDSbEYpqjmceTnkaAvdTEALw_wcB# I don’t know about shipping to Canuckistan though. FWIW...

@Scud has a photo of his speedo showing 183mph. (Sort of) https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/19038-installing-speedhut-gauges/?do=findComment&comment=221768

I just use the tacho or engine sound. Above 7000 change up. Below 3000 change down.

Tone it down a bit for lane splitting...

you need to get that speedometer fixed.

Occasionally, a casual admirer will ask how fast mySport will go. I've grown fond of replying, "I've never seen the speedomoter over 135 ." (mph, of course.) I never said I've seen it that fast, just never over . . .

Yes, be careful, even whilst having fun. I haven't had mine on the Autobahn yet, but one fine day... I hope to have the Navigator mount on it by then, and then I will also know what the real speed is. I'm curious. A good "loop" for that sort of game starting from where I live is westwards out of town to Junction 17, head south to the cloverleaf, then east to Junction 29 and back in to town. Going by the map, that's about 33 km. of Autobahn. https://www.openstreetmap.org/search?query=Leipzig#map=11/51.3205/12.3304 The first bit down to the cloverleaf is 3 lanes both ways, and the whole stretch is mostly unrestricted. With a bit of luck at the right time of day on the right day, barring roadworks, there is nothing stopping you from opening the throttle to the stop and just holding it there until common sense prevails. Germany does have some good sides.

My Bitubo was getting a bit notchy so I unscrewed the end cap emptied out the remaining oil and refilled with atf, it’s smooth again now

When my Bitubo leaked, I went without it for a while, but found I liked a little assistance (resistance?) in tight steering lock during parking maneuvers. The likelihood that a V11 would throw a wobble/tank slapper is rather slim. Lots of members have removed theirs with no ill effects. Too much damping and the V11 (especially the early ShortFrame) can suffer from high speed weave (very different from "wobble"). The early Sports were known for this and my dealer advised to set the damping to minimum. [edit: I found the weave to be multi-causal and solved it with suspension changes, sag set-up, tire type/pressure selection. Very early RedFrames had carry-over triple trees that can be problematic.] HyperPro offers a selection of dampers that fit (I'll look for that thread). We have another, highly contentious, one thousand three hundred seventy-two posts/ 115 page thread that ended locked, a member ejection, two other members leaving, and the forum being put on probation. We are passionate beings about things like damping, you know . . .

2000 V11S Greenie, 32k miles, $4,300 posted in SF Bay Area. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/mcy/d/redwood-city-moto-guzzi-v11-sport/7631462253.html

My Scura's did that. Started with a cough. Thought maybe I needed a thottlebody synch but at a closer look... It IS 20 year old rubber... Help up pretty well for be being a bike that spent its life in dry weather its entire life..

No - that one uses the four treaded fittings on the swingarm, same as the stock one - so it has those four long CF "legs". The Ghezzi Brian one comes with a bracket that mounts with the lower shock-mount bolt. After installation, it looks like it's just floating over the tire. Here is a close-up of the bracket and how it mounts to the lower shock-bolt: Here is the fender from the side: And as luck would have it... the Nero came with the other type of fender. It was beat up (deeply gouged and some chunks taken out). Trash hadn't gone out yet, so I was able to lay it over the top of the installed GB fender for this photo. Surprisingly, you could mount that fender without removing the GB one (you can see it peeking out in a few spots). And if you look carefully, you can see the GB bracket too.)

Try these guys: Ducati Brembo 12mm Front Brake / Clutch Master Cylinder REM REC Seal Rebuild Kit 110436292 KTM Aprilia Moto Guzzi (gothamcycles.com) Then search in their website for Ducati Brembo Master. You need to know the diameter (eg 14mm). I presume that you are a "certified brake technician"?

Yep, the "hairline" cracks on the intake rubbers are commonly superficial. Until they are not . . . (Still hoping my months-old Harper backorder will, one day, come through . . . )

Last year I replaced the intake boots on both my 1999 Silver V11 & 2003 “grape ape” V11. I noticed deep hairline cracking in the rubber boots and didn’t want the cracks progressing and causing air leaks so fitted new boots interesting point about the Ohlins steering damper. I’ll check my Rosso Corsa to see if it’s a Bitubo or Ohlins

Hey Scud seeing you have the wave front disk and you need to replace the rear why not use one of these. Galfer P/N DF005W https://www.vividracing.com/galfer-front-brake-disc-honda-silverwing-400-p-152495773.html Ciao

Tim, I fitted three pairs of drilled pucks in alternating recesses. See picture. No problems after 3 years. The other 3 pairs I sent to you in 2017/2018. Yours have slightly less rubber removed.

Drilling the cush rubbers was Greg Field's idea. I tried it, and never went back. Making a Cushier Cush Drive - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum There are 3 places that need lubrication while you have the drive plate off. The input spline to the wheel benefits from Kluber Staburags NBU 30 PTM grease, the rubber pucks and retainer plate spacer benefit from dry-lube spray, and the drive plate bore needs waterproof grease. Should I lubricate my rubbers? - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum More discussion here: Cush drive lubrication - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum

I think you show respect in many great ways. It shows real honor and dedication to go the extra miles (km? ) to make sure our V11 don't just get cast off, parted out, or otherwise defiled. That along with caringly placing the individual accessories and parts shows real respect. Thank you, Gio! I would have to look back at the timeline, but it was not long after we lost Luciano Marabese that we also lost brlawson. A fine gentleman I feel lucky to have met and ridden with.