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What docc said, clockwise / turned in is more dampening. More dampening is slowing down movement of the fork in that direction, so the compression adjuster turned all the way in would be maximum compression dampening and the slowest compression of the fork it can do. The rebound adjuster turned all the way in would be maximum rebound dampening, meaning the rebound of the forks would be as slow as possible. Normally the reference point is the adjuster screwed all the way in as that is a positive stop where the needle hits the seat. When you turn the adjuster out, counter-clockwise, there is often not a positive stop as the needle is simply moving away from the seat. So where it stops is not always identical on one unit to another. It should be, but maybe it isn't. But turned all the way in, all the way clockwise, will always be the same because in that direction it stops when the needle hits the seat. Usually on the street you want as little dampening as you need to control suspension motion. At least that is my take. But if I paid someone who knows more than I do to re-valve the forks I would start with the adjusters where ever they put them. I would turn them all the way in, counting how many clicks out they are, and then put them back to that. From there I would adjust them in or out as required for best results. You could then use that info to have further adjustments made to the valving. If you had to turn the compression adjuster in to get the desired ride quality that would mean the valving maybe needs to be a little firmer, for example. @LaGrasta, just so you know, without blocking off the bypass holes as @guzzlersaid he had done you may find the adjuster has very little impact on compression dampening except in the last inch or so of travel (when the piston has gone by the bypass holes). By blocking off the bypass holes you force more oil to pass through either the valving in the piston or the adjuster. Without blocking off the bypass holes the fork oil is pretty much free to bypass the valving and the adjuster until the piston goes past the bypass holes, which is in about the last inch of suspension travel. The forks can work much better with one or more of those bypass holes blocked off. This seems to be mainly the earlier 40mm forks. I don't think the later 43mm forks have the same issue. But it is hard to say for sure, as has been mentioned you never know which parts are on a given Guzzi.

Yeah, righty - tighty more dampening. Lefty - loosey less dampening.

Doesn't it simply come down to: If your 2003 Sport has a short/ chin-pad tank (external pump/filter) and white face instruments, you should order parts from the 2002 Parts Catalog . . .

Sometimes I miss my Greenie... and that looks to be a fair deal. But with so few miles, I'd assume that every fluid, every filter, and most rubber would need changing. Easy project.

Nine out of the 10 I ran through the whole process. While I had the mill set up, though, I ran the rest, so it won't be much trouble to make more.

I’ll bring the beer 🍻

You don't make this one then we're having a SpineRaid between the lifts in your shop!

With so very few images and next to no description, it can be a challenge to critique an offering like this. Yet, who can resist? Lots to love: original mirrors, fenders, tail/tag light. Original turn signals including the front "width spacers." Those look like original grips! Very clean original exhaust with MG accessory "For Off Road Use Only" round carbon fiber canisters (probably made by Mistral), complete with the riveted tags! Correct color matched MG accessory flyscreen by Stucchi Luigi/Mandello. All four elusive "Eagle badges" appear to be present. The correct, red Champion spark plug caps have the correct, original black band. That the vacuum tap tubing is still present makes me curious if the entire fuel evap system/ charcoal canisters are still in place under the seat. (Along with a bank of original Seimens relays?) Spark 500 (original) battery? Along with the rear rack, there are TEKNO pannier racks (an original MG accessory). Any word if the panniers, themselves come with the sale?

Don't tattoo that on your body . It is subject to change . When you order parts , do a lot of "leg"work before doing anything . You do want to do this for your own benefit . The wiring diagram in the back of your owner's , have your wiring diagram enlarged and memorize everything !

…mine (2003 V11s) is external fuel pump, tank pad, white gauges.

And what looks to be factory rubber as well. I have an example of such a machine and it had less mileage than this one when found and mine runs and function perfectly. Was not acquired to be a daily however. A little more info needed to verify for sure............ Ciao

Turn in = Increase Damping ("stiffer", so to speak). Also, consider that the clicks are likely not linear, as in half the clicks sets the damping at halfway. More likely half clicks in = 3/4 damping. Peter Verdone comments on this and shows a graph about halfway down on this page: http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm

FWIW, the "2br cottage" (next door to TechCentral) is still available. Discounts for Kentucky residents . . . [First two structures on the right/west entering the park from the north]:

Courtesy of @KINDOY2, here are images of 1) Short Frame with Short (chin-pad) Tank: (1999-2001 Sport and 2001 Rosso Mandello with short/black frame.) 2) LongFrame/ShortTank [Image courtesy of @MartyNZ]: (2002, all models, PLUS the 2003 "Carryover Sport ") 3) LongFrame/LongTank (internal pump/filter): (2003-2005, all models, EXCEPT the 2003 Carryover Sport.)

“the confusion occurs..”. no snit mate- i’m still not entirely sure what v11 i’ve got!

G'day folk's I've just had the greenies forks serviced with those pesky bypass holes blocked/ revalved and resprung with .95 straight rate springs.I weigh 90 kg's. Gotta say, it's a bloody huge improvement over the way it was and I'm quite chuffed. However, as the forks and shock had to be removed to be sent to the suspension specialist then re-installed, I'm just trying to figure out the settings and get a base if I want to adjust further! It's bloody confusing (why ??) but from what I can fathom Compression has 16 clicks of adjustment and Rebound has 18 clicks. As they are set now compression is 8 x clicks out from full in ( midway? ) and Rebound is 12 clicks out from full in. ( bit more than halfway?) This is as they came back to me. My question is when the screw is full in, is this negative (or soft/less damping) and screw wound full out positive (or harder/more damping)? I never touched the suspension from when I last had it done. I have to say that this new bloke has done a far better job.... Cheers Guzzler

I have always liked the Greenie, this one looks nice with fair asking price. https://kpr.craigslist.org/mcy/7554484475.html

Docc, is it possible to post a file (maybe in gallery) vs. the screenshot above ?

Many thanks Doc and GuzziMoto. I reckon I'm getting my head round it slowly ha ha and will definitely read that link more intently mate! Cheers Guzzler

Amazing how these V11 respond to suspension tuning. So glad to hear it's much improved! Again, have a look at Verdone's description and graph of damping adjustment. You will see why setting the "clicks" halfway sets the damping at 75%. He also explains why the settings are more "sensitive" at the closed (most damping) end and least effect at the opposite end of the adjustability.

great idea docc. The whole 'carryover thing' is especially confusing to new owners. My first query would be, did the '03 (factory) designation start with production dates or the vin frame stamp. Since it seems clear they started '03 bikes before running out of '02 parts, there may be different differences in the carryovers. ie; fork tube size or bubbling block paint. Having a carryover is not a problem, I actually prefer some of the earlier items. If I was an owner I'd just go down the list of '03 upgrades and verify which ones ended up on my bike. Knowing all the upgrades is the key.

"Also, I am planning to create a pinned topic specifically for the 2003 Carryover Sport." …just for me!

Thanks fella's It's kinda hard to know which way is up as no bloody markings on the screws or whatever so no indication other than looking at the screw being above or below the nut! On my compression side the screw is @ 8 clicks or halfway (of16) and screw is about flush with the top... The Rebound is 12 clicks (of 18) from full in and just below the nut. So, I'm assuming Comp is middle of the road and Rebound is approx 3 x clicks from middle of the road.. But the gist of it is screw wound in (below /the nut) is + and more damping whilst screw wound out (above the nut) is - and less damping ? Really appreciate your input! As I mentioned though this is how they came back to me and the difference between old and new is quite incredible, much more FEEL from the front very little dive either and just bloody composed! I think Peter has also backed off the preload of the shock when he serviced it as well and front and back feel more in tune with each other now. As it was the Hyperpro 460 shock had a lot of preload and back end probably too Hard whilst the progressive springs and no compression damping in front meant it was too soft! Add in the fact that the suspension was 45,000 kays old and overdue a service... It's no wonder it feels BETTER ha ha, but it is seriously good now! Rapt Cheers Guzzler

Exactly the purpose of this thread and those like it. The variations are knowable. I am working on a plan to add a third image to the tank/ steering head views, above, showing the short tank/long (black) frame of 2002 and the 2003 Carryover Sport. edit: Done. Thank you, @MartyNZ Also, I am planning to create a pinned topic specifically for the 2003 Carryover Sport. edit: Done . . .

My red frame has the same combo as yours . My black frame has an external fuel pump. There's one thing for certain , nothin's for certain .

"maybe" ......

Come in if you can get in !

Docc, Getting both cottages along with the garage would be perfect.

Me too....bracing, no tank pad, internal pump & plastic frame shroud. No trim on tank from bolt hole up to top unless you mean the black stripe, about 4" wide, from the center forwardmost top of tank to the filler cap and bubbles up with 10% ethynol use. Thanks for the comment on bearings & seals. Generally, I assume if I order a part listed in the illustrated parts breakdown and receive that item, it is correct for the application.

I agree, what a confusing clusterph**k. My 2003 Lemans is definitely a long frame with all the bracing,,,no pad on top of the tank, has the plastic trim on the tank from the bolt hole up to the top,,, inside the tank pump assembly,,, but I definitely have that plastic frame shroud covering wires etc behind the steering head. I read the horror story this summer of the owner trying to get the wrong ft wheel bearing seal? to fit,,,, I break into a cold sweat thinking about doing bearing&seal work. With so many variables, I'd be inclined to measure every seal or bearing before ordering,,, but that's a pita if you're doing repair work in riding season.

Right? When Aprilia introduced the LeMans in 2002 with the (unannounced) LongFrame, the Sport became kind of a secret. In fact, it was a long time before I realized V11 Sport (no fairing/flyscreen and headlamp/instruments fork mounted) continued in the line to the end (at least until 2004). So, @stewgnu looks to have a LongFrame/ShortTank Sport (exactly like the 2003 "carryover" Sport). "Sport Naked?"

good condition, very low miles and with some very desirable and expensive options puts it in to the 'quite reasonable/good deal' category. If it were a LOT closer I'd gamble, or at least see if he would knock off $900. toward the service to have it updated.

Keep me posted . I'm in !

Just to clarify for future readers, you have 40mm seals for 40mm forks. All early V11, 1999-2002 "short tank with chin pad", have 40mm forks unless Öhlins equipped. Later, 2003-2005, V11 are 43mm. The confusion occurs with early 2003 Sports that are "carryovers" from 2002, identifiable by the chin-pad short tank and white-face Veglia instruments. These use the earlier 40mm Marzocchi.

I really do not see how that lower portion would saddle our spine frame. Remember, "V11" is an engine designation. The "EV" of that era are "V11", but not spineframes . . . I would ask the RedShirtGirl, but she has run away. I thought she was at your house?

I'm planning on coming but for a 6 1/2 hour ride I'll probably wimp out and bring the Norge.

Ok, so the spring Kentucky Spine Raid is locked in for May 19th-21st. We are working on renting a cottage on the state park property that has a garage. You know, useful for most spine raid tech sessions. Along with the main lodge just down the road with a restaurant and bar we should be good to go. Anybody know any good roads/routes in the area?

I thought I already had a favorite Postmodern Jukebox song/video, but now . . . I dunno for sure . . .

+1 more on overhead straps. If the bike comes down on me, I have other problems, because the dining room table is next. I'm using the Canyon Dancer tie down (er, up) device, which is really convenient.

Here is an excellent image of the 2002/early-2003 "carry-over" LongFrame with short tank compared to an early ShortFrame/short tank Sport. Notice the amount of exposed frame between the front of the tanks and the forks. That is where the V11 frame was lengthened. A trim piece ("panel" 01 57 59 60 ) covers the otherwise exposed wiring/etc crossing the space. Later "long tanks" (internal pump/filter and no chin pad) obscure this area. Image (and Sports!) courtesy of @Guzzimax

A pic I did a while back but couldn't figure how to shrink a pic. Scura in her glory.

looking at a Guzzi head-on always makes me think of old propellor airplane engines.

I trapped the front wheel in the wheel chock and just supported the bike on the oil pan.