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  1. 10 points
    This year's Greeny parade, 3 of 4. After 20 years still the biggest group, even without the other 4 KRs of other colours (2 and 2)
  2. 8 points
    >Well Guys, like I said I struggle with the webby stuff and spent a half hour emailing/downloading/downsizing/creating an album blahblahblah then the tech tells me I can only send so many bits of data - Doh to quote your man Homer-so ye are gonna get a one off snap of a very special Griso based machine snapped in Stafford Show UK a few weeks back - the builder whose name I didn't get is standing behind the beasty. Its bedtime here so I will have another go tomorrow at sending on a snap or two of my V11 Le Mans rumbling around an old Irish road race venue that now hosts a recreation of the old event, last held in 1967. The Stafford Show is well worth a visit if you happen to be going to the UK in either April or October as it runs twice yearly and all sorts of odd things surface there.
  3. 8 points
    Been looking for a Scura, but coudnt help myself. Defnitly IPA time. Cheers tom. Sent fra min SM-G903F via Tapatalk
  4. 8 points
  5. 7 points
  6. 7 points
    Gratuitous Bald River Falls photo post.....
  7. 6 points
    I was lucky enough to score a N.O.S. Guzzi/ Stucchi accessory windscreen in green. Bolted-on, no problem. She’s coming along!
  8. 5 points
    yes but most of them dont ride Moto Guzzi's
  9. 5 points
    Howdy boys... I'll commit to running another batch of springs. Been busy with work lately - lots of travel. But I can get another batch ordered. BTW - I'm gonna need some help with electrickecy soon. My Scura's been parked too long. But today, I'm up in Morro Bay near the start of the Big Sur coastline. Waves are supposed to be 25 feet by Piedras Blanca on Big Sur. Me and Husky 701 are going to brave the wet, rocky, muddy stuff to inspect. Happy Thanksgiving.
  10. 5 points
    Should be fine if it hasnt seen too much weather. Apart from oil changes and filters.. new plugs, new tyres. There'd be a few things to check, like the earth on the back of the gear box is clean and earthing correctly. Change the relays. Lube all the moving parts and bearings like the ignition switch, levers, uni joints, swingarm bearings, headstock bearing, new fork oil and seals and probably rechroming the stauncions . New injectors or remove and clean. Same for the fuel pump - get it spinning by air before you apply power and burn out a seized pump. Check the oil pump, no chips in the teeth and spins ok. Spray oil everywhere in the engine and heads. Check and adjust valves tolerances. When you have checked everything, spin the engine up on the starter only (with kill switch on) a few times for about 10 secs each time and for a total of minute Or until the oil light goes out. This would generally happen after about 40secs but if it hasn't primed the oil system by 60secs, you should see if any oil is circulating before continuing. If all good, then start the bike. Ride..
  11. 5 points
    Mountain roads open and passable only with mounted chains
  12. 4 points
    Yeah, sorry if I seemed a bit vehement in my response, it wasn't meant to be an attack on you Ray but after twelve years of dealing with W5AM bikes that have had these 'Simple fixes' used on them I know that they can not only be ineffective but also downright damaging. All of these bits of shit work on the principle of 'Fooling' the ECU into delivering more fuel. Many of them, an example being the 'Fat Duc' product are a variable resistor that goes in between the narrow band O2 sensor in the exhaust and the ECU. This supposedly 'Tricks' the ECU into thinking that the engine is running lean and adjusts the parameters in the closed loop area of the map to make the injector pulse with longer. The problem is that what it really does is simply confuse the ECU and it can end up going into a tailspin where it adds far, far too much fuel. It then recognises there is a problem and throws up a 'Service' warning on the dash and drops the bike into 'Limp' mode. You can feel when this happens. It feels like arse! The overfuelling can also do substantial damage over time. The Mistral device is also simply an variable resistor only it goes between the air temperature sensor and the ECU. This is even more spectacularly useless. When initially installed it will create a rich condition, once again very crudely, but the problem is the O2 sensor will detect the rich condition and then, over a short period of time, will pull fuel out of the pulse width until it recognises the mix is what it thinks it should be. All these horrid little widgets tend to thrive because a.) People are wary or downright scared of Fuel Injection. And b.) People think they are a cheap and easy magic bullet. They are neither! The air temperature fooler device could be used to, very crudely, enriched the mixture if you download the map, open it with a tool like Tunerpro and turn the lambda function, (The O2 sensor input.) off and re-upload the modified map. The thing is you wouldn't want to. The common belief is that 'Modern bike's are mapped lean to meet emissions'. This is in fact the almost exact opposite of the truth. Most maps are rich and then rely on the lambda input to pull fuel out of the map to meet the emissions target. If you turn the lambda off in most of the map the very last thing you want to do is put more fuel in! The other thing is if you are going to turn the lambda off you have to read the map, modify it and re-upload it. If you are going to do that why not just get, (Or build.) a decent map for your bike and upload it? All you need is Guzzidiag, Reader and Writer, two cables and a beater laptop! The map will probably be cheaper than one of these shitty widgets and you need to have the cables and laptop for tuning the bike anyway. Sorry, I didn't mean to jump down Ray's throat but these things, and the people who spruik them, really piss me off. Pete
  13. 4 points
  14. 4 points
    Mmmm... suspenders... I am finally well suspendered! Got a Ohlins boinger on the back and new andreani kits on the front! Bike handling ace for a fat lass- nowhere near as much dive through the front. She’s riding the ripples and bumps much better already too and I reckon there’ll be scope to tweek it further. Feeling rather jammy if I do say so.
  15. 4 points
  16. 4 points
    First long ride since last summer. Tacked on a couple of days to last weekend and headed for Blenheim to visit family. East coast north of Kaikoura still has a lot of road works as a result of the earthquakes a few years ago so you have to be patient with numerous stop/go guys. What was a 4 hour trip is now 6 hours. Return trip was quicker but colder from snow that had fallen previous day. Bike went well. Just clicked over 60,000 ks. Rally season coming up here so should be able to get a few more rides in.
  17. 4 points
    I am pretty sure I’ve sorted the problem now!! I removed the plastic inlet pipe on the master cylinder and discovered that one of the two small holes was blocked up with crud. The hole is tiny and tapered so easy to block up over time. So I probably didn’t need the new seals etc fitted - but at least I know they’re all good for a few more years of riding !
  18. 4 points
    New seat. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  19. 4 points
  20. 3 points
    Most of you probably follow the Redux thread, but I wanted to move the pertinent info to the top where it's not buried 7 pages deep. Pete Roper licensed sloppage trays for V11 broad-sump motors, US-made in 304 Stainless Steel .080" thick. $70US, plus USPS medium priority mail box in the US, total $84.35. International orders, $70US plus actual shipping. Please do send me a PM through the site, and I'll send an invoice. This avoids confusion and creates a solid timeline so nobody falls through the cracks. PayPal to pressureangle@gmail.com or check/money order to; Horst Manufacturing 9501 E. Center St. Windham, OH 44288
  21. 3 points
    And so it begins I had the side flow injectors cleaned and flow tested from the throttle bodies I had. Originally 1 wouldn't pulse so I dropped them in the the ultrasonic bath and the dud one seemed to come good. However it also seemed to not pulse for the first few applications of voltage so I figured it must still be dirty. I rigged up a 9 volt battery to pulse the injector open and put it back in the ultrasonic bath this time with a mixture of injector cleaner and petrol. This was a well dodgy thing to do and I did it outside with an extinguisher on hand. Anyhow it didnt seem to work. The reason for all this messing about was it was hard to find anyone to clean the side flow injectors, top feed easy but the side flows was problematic. Anyway I finally found a company and initially one wouldnt pulse but after cleaning on their special machine it came up good. Just wanted to eliminate as many variables as I can starting a new engine without the std fuel map. Ciao
  22. 3 points
    My Sport yet perseveres. As do I, along with it . . . "Somedays I am the timber; somedays I am the Pontiac."
  23. 3 points
    "Gråkråkan" (grey crow) in swedish, or "L'aquila griglia" in it's mother tongue.
  24. 3 points
    I had to strip a black painted triple clamp when I converted to handlebars. Pull the triple and strip the paint, starting with a chemical stripper, then using a gentle blast media. I had a friend do it who has a blast cabinet. Polish it, then clear coat. Before and after:
  25. 3 points
    and of course... Plus a couple more Guzzis
  26. 3 points
    You need to make a commitment to owning a Guzzi. As long as the bike is fundamentally sound and the price is as good as others here have indicated then you cant afford to sweat the small stuff. The valve cover may have a porosity spot in it which would be the first I have heard of and would be an easy fix internally. More likely its been damaged at some point and repaired without sealing 100%. Also forget about a test ride to see if you "like" the bike because chances you wont be in love with it on a test ride. The joy of Guzzi ownership grows on you as you commit yourself to adapting to what the bike requires from the rider/owner.The test ride is just to make sure everything works. Ciao
  27. 3 points
  28. 3 points
    I don’t think the cap failure came first, but IDK. I was thinking pure fastener failure, but now consider the impact may have predisposed that. No doubt, crossing the pinch bolt threads is both common and potentially disastrous. While I could, once again, be accused of overthinking this, the failure was serious enough to warrant careful review and consideration. If my posts help one other rider avoid a come-apart, then we have success.
  29. 3 points
    Over the last two days I scratched around and installed a relay at the end of the starter solenoid wire . I attached a larger automotive relay to the battery tray and ran my B+ from the battery through a fuse holder ( 20a) to the relay . Grounded the - to a 10mm bolt at the rear of the tank . The feed wire to the solenoid connection . The original solenoid wire energizes the new relay and the current goes through the larger relay . This will stop all relay problems and taxing the factory wiring and connections . I have done this a lot on equipment with Lucas starters that burn up neutral switches , solenoids , etc. P.S. I used 16 ga wire to go from the battery to relay and relay to solenoid .
  30. 3 points
  31. 3 points
    This axle is loose, so you'd better fix it, do not just close this hole. It's basically the same procedure as for the spring. Cover off, lower wheel off, axle out, clean shaft and hole. Then apply strong Loctite and put the axle back into its seat, wait half an hour, reassemble the rest and put the cover back on the housing. Don't forget to change the neutral switch.
  32. 3 points
    Jim here. Old guy (67/retired) who still has a brochure for the '77 LeMans 850 in his toolbox. Life intervened and I never got Guzzied. After three cancers, time is running. Time to buy my last bike. Well, I'm looking at an '02 LeMans, 10K miles,Ti exhaust, Power Commander, ECU re-flash and maybe a few things I'm forgetting. Owner says 'pristine" and pics (of course) look good. A fgw hours drive, so generally wondering what to look for beside the obvious. I am aware that '03-'04 have further improvements and that the paint will fall off the '02 engine. Asking 4.5K but might offer 4K after a close look. Always thought the fairings were hideous, but no one close is selling a Ballabio right now. I also know that Guzzis are not so much a motorcycle as they are a project (adventure?) that involves a motorcycle. Yet, as we see, those who love them LOVE them. Pax et Bonum
  33. 3 points
    One in NSW Jervis Bay area Australia This Cafe Sport was first regestered in the UK owner moved to Aust. I am the third owner as far as I know. Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk
  34. 3 points
    Maybe from the USA? So ... it's not easy: Vehicles, motor vehicles and trailers registered in a foreign country and which have already fulfilled customs formalities or those referred to in article 53, paragraph 2 of the Legislative Decree 30 August 1993, n.331, if prescribed, are allowed to circulate in Italy for the maximum duration of one year, based on the registration certificate of the State of origin. As you can see you can circulate for a period of one year with the American bike with original plate but you must have these original documents with you: a) TITLE (vehicle registration document) B) Custom Bubble (shows that the vehicle is your property and you have fulfilled the customs duties and therefore VAT and DUTY) c) Purchase Invoice d) REGISTRATION CARD (it is our respective Italian stamp or property tax) e) Insurance VALID ON THE ITALIAN TERRITORY Obviously if you stay more than a year you must provide for the registration of the car with Italian license plate otherwise there is the immediate seizure of the vehicle with the relative administrative sanctions. as for you, you must have the INTERNATIONAL DRIVING LICENSE (VALID).
  35. 3 points
    Dave's "espresso & grappa" is the best-looking of any Norge ever ... and I tend to think that the onluy "proper" color for an Italian motorcycle is red. Bill
  36. 3 points
  37. 3 points
    I was never able to fully figure out why the handlebar starter switch would not work. There seems to be a broken wire inside the harness somewhere so i would use a small blade screwdriver to jump the starter connections. I realized the other day that the dust was gathering because I wasn't riding as often cause of the starting situation. Don't have that problem anymore As far as safety goes...well I'm old and crusty and I don't need no stinking safety switches. Somethings are just very old habits. Maybe this will last another 122,000 miles
  38. 3 points
    Yeah, I've dealt with those things. Just use a cap screw, and consider yourself lucky it fell out.
  39. 3 points
    I would not drill the steel RAM flywheel. I think it behaves basically the same as the aluminum one that I removed from my Scura. While the new RAM unit weighs a bit more, the mass is more centralized as it has three spokes, not a full circle. And it only weighs about 1 pound more (not 1 kilo). Here is a link to a post I made a while back comparing the three clutches: back
  40. 3 points
  41. 2 points
    I;m assuming you have one of the later VIIs with the Start relay powered from the Ignition Switch Typically there is too much resistance in the ignition switch and it's associated wires. The Starter solenoid has two coils one that pulls 10 Amps and another that would like to draw 40 Amps but just for a few milliseconds while the solenoid engages and the main contact closes, This is such a common problem it's been named "Startus Interruptus", common to almost every other Guzzi right up to the latest. You need to clean the ignition switch every few years, take the switch block off the lock (2 Phillips screws) and open it up, wipe out the old grease and replace it with fresh Petroleum Jelly aka Vaseline. There is a permanent fix (strong feed) that requires a direct connection to the start relay 30 terminal from the battery but it also requires a different arrangement for the feed to the headlight relay, try cleaning the switch first. Drop the negative wire off the battery to make it safe. I think your problem with cutting out is possibly a dirty side stand switch, carry a short length of wire to stuff in the relay (15) socket 30-87, this will bypass the stand switch as a test. Further reading https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21206-startus-interuptus-revisited/
  42. 2 points
    Congrats! They are like no other motorcycle. An acquired taste some say, but torque suits every palate. The only thing I see that needs immediate attention is BNP. Badly Needs Pipes.
  43. 2 points
    The black bikes look good Ciao
  44. 2 points
  45. 2 points
    "He" is me, @vtwins4life. I know I'm starting "high," especially when compared to the standard V11s that sit for months on Craigslist at sub-$5k prices. But Rosso Mandellos are extremely rare and that spare tank alone is worth a bundle, I imagine. I couldn't find a single Rosso Mandello for sale anywhere with a price in extensive research, and almost nothing in the last three or four years. Based on pricing of other also-nearly non-existent special models, and extensive conversations at this year's Quail Motorcycle Gathering, I chose $8k as a perhaps-high-but-seemingly-reasonable starting point. Interested parties are welcome to make an offer, of course, but I'm not going to let it go for the price of a rusty greenie with crashmarks on both sides. If it doesn't sell, maybe I'll just keep it and fire it up to listen to the Magnis now and then. Maybe I'll sell off some of the parts and reduce the price some. Maybe I'll cut it up and make something with ergos that work for my newly-"reconfigured" leg, and sell off the bodywork. Oh, the humanity! Serious question: what do you think it's worth, and what is that number or range based on?
  46. 2 points
    New trottle controll and skinny rubbers, oil leak , oily stator and oil every where, gasket and seal,,, and and, enjoying myself. Shindengen 847 on order. Cheers tom Sent fra min SM-G903F via Tapatalk
  47. 2 points
    Caught some snow on Monday (Memorial Day Weekend) in the Eastern Sierra Nevadas. Even managed to catch an 18-inch rainbow trout... and some quality time with my youngest daughter. She and my wife both want to learn to ride now, so I think I might be looking for a small dual sport like a Yamaha TW200 or XT225.
  48. 2 points
    Here SHE is, capricious as a woman and just as beautiful ... I have to solve some problems but SHE has the potential and shows the right character. Voltage regulator to be changed and accelerator to be fixed as first adjustments, in the week the insurance starts and I bring SHE to overhaul in MOT. Then we start playing... seriously ...
  49. 2 points
    Finally I am able to get back on here, For some reason I am unable to get on from work That's ok though, today is my last day there. I'm not convinced it's the battery, run a wire from the starter solenoid and touch it on the battery +, if it cranks like that it's something else. I guess this message must have shown up the other day but I couldn't see it, either that or I am loosing the plot. Hot wiring the starter will eliminate the possibility of bad wiring or a relay from the mix, just the starter, solenoid and battery
  50. 2 points
    A pic of my carbon fiber scrapper being shunned by Native....
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