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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Yeah, sorry if I seemed a bit vehement in my response, it wasn't meant to be an attack on you Ray but after twelve years of dealing with W5AM bikes that have had these 'Simple fixes' used on them I know that they can not only be ineffective but also downright damaging. All of these bits of shit work on the principle of 'Fooling' the ECU into delivering more fuel. Many of them, an example being the 'Fat Duc' product are a variable resistor that goes in between the narrow band O2 sensor in the exhaust and the ECU. This supposedly 'Tricks' the ECU into thinking that the engine is running lean and adjusts the parameters in the closed loop area of the map to make the injector pulse with longer. The problem is that what it really does is simply confuse the ECU and it can end up going into a tailspin where it adds far, far too much fuel. It then recognises there is a problem and throws up a 'Service' warning on the dash and drops the bike into 'Limp' mode. You can feel when this happens. It feels like arse! The overfuelling can also do substantial damage over time. The Mistral device is also simply an variable resistor only it goes between the air temperature sensor and the ECU. This is even more spectacularly useless. When initially installed it will create a rich condition, once again very crudely, but the problem is the O2 sensor will detect the rich condition and then, over a short period of time, will pull fuel out of the pulse width until it recognises the mix is what it thinks it should be. All these horrid little widgets tend to thrive because a.) People are wary or downright scared of Fuel Injection. And b.) People think they are a cheap and easy magic bullet. They are neither! The air temperature fooler device could be used to, very crudely, enriched the mixture if you download the map, open it with a tool like Tunerpro and turn the lambda function, (The O2 sensor input.) off and re-upload the modified map. The thing is you wouldn't want to. The common belief is that 'Modern bike's are mapped lean to meet emissions'. This is in fact the almost exact opposite of the truth. Most maps are rich and then rely on the lambda input to pull fuel out of the map to meet the emissions target. If you turn the lambda off in most of the map the very last thing you want to do is put more fuel in! The other thing is if you are going to turn the lambda off you have to read the map, modify it and re-upload it. If you are going to do that why not just get, (Or build.) a decent map for your bike and upload it? All you need is Guzzidiag, Reader and Writer, two cables and a beater laptop! The map will probably be cheaper than one of these shitty widgets and you need to have the cables and laptop for tuning the bike anyway. Sorry, I didn't mean to jump down Ray's throat but these things, and the people who spruik them, really piss me off. Pete
  2. 4 points
  3. 4 points
    Mmmm... suspenders... I am finally well suspendered! Got a Ohlins boinger on the back and new andreani kits on the front! Bike handling ace for a fat lass- nowhere near as much dive through the front. She’s riding the ripples and bumps much better already too and I reckon there’ll be scope to tweek it further. Feeling rather jammy if I do say so.
  4. 4 points
  5. 3 points
    My Sport yet perseveres. As do I, along with it . . . "Somedays I am the timber; somedays I am the Pontiac."
  6. 2 points
    Ya think? Chuck's favored "flask" . . . ^^^^^^^^^
  7. 2 points
    Hey Tom, I enclosed a pdf copy of the Casper's product description of the breakout cables that I had saved for my own records. Hopefully this goes through and you can read it ok. Fyi good luck Kelly Breakout cable Caspers V11Lemans forum 109172 TPS Breakout (Dense 3 way Metripack).pdf
  8. 2 points
    Honda sells a ton of Groms. Thing is, you can ride them WOT all day, every day - and no one but you knows this. Meanwhile you are ginning like an idiot inside your helmet. A form of the "Big, dirty fun" of which P.J. O'Rourke wrote. .
  9. 2 points
    Here are V11 Sport 54mm OEM clip ons mounted above the triple:
  10. 2 points
    The OEM bars are not 7/8", I think they are slightly smaller. I wanted to put the heavy OEM bars into the Woodcraft 54mm clip-ons, but they need a shim and it got too complicated with all the other mods, so went with Woodcraft 7/8" bars and Manic Salamander bar end weights, and filled the Woodcraft bars with lead shot. Not sure where my OEM clip-ons, bars and end weights are, I'll have to look. I also have a photo with the OEM clip-ons mounted above the top triple. I bought the bike that way. Have to look for that too.
  11. 2 points
    "Gråkråkan" (grey crow) in swedish, or "L'aquila griglia" in it's mother tongue.
  12. 2 points
    Kluber Starbucks. Spilled his coffee on the wheel.
  13. 2 points
    I looked in "Fileshare", but do not see them. I had few cut by my local vinyl sign maker some time ago. That was only used by MotoGuzzi on race bikes, AFAIK, from about 1949-1951. I so love the asymmetry. The "Art Deco" . . .
  14. 2 points
    I;m assuming you have one of the later VIIs with the Start relay powered from the Ignition Switch Typically there is too much resistance in the ignition switch and it's associated wires. The Starter solenoid has two coils one that pulls 10 Amps and another that would like to draw 40 Amps but just for a few milliseconds while the solenoid engages and the main contact closes, This is such a common problem it's been named "Startus Interruptus", common to almost every other Guzzi right up to the latest. You need to clean the ignition switch every few years, take the switch block off the lock (2 Phillips screws) and open it up, wipe out the old grease and replace it with fresh Petroleum Jelly aka Vaseline. There is a permanent fix (strong feed) that requires a direct connection to the start relay 30 terminal from the battery but it also requires a different arrangement for the feed to the headlight relay, try cleaning the switch first. Drop the negative wire off the battery to make it safe. I think your problem with cutting out is possibly a dirty side stand switch, carry a short length of wire to stuff in the relay (15) socket 30-87, this will bypass the stand switch as a test. Further reading https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21206-startus-interuptus-revisited/
  15. 2 points
    Well the truth is I work for soup and a sandwich as far as motorcycles are concerned, I did do it and still do it for the pure pleasure and because I like to help people and learn stuff. I hate the profiteering and "charge what the market will stand" I see these days, its just not me. Needless to say I'd never make it in my own business. Ciao
  16. 2 points
    Yeah man. To be fair, the suppliers seem very helpful so far. It’s wet as an otters pocket here just now so not losing much ridin time!
  17. 1 point
    Unless you have made extensive mods you'll probably find someone has a map that will work. If it doesn't get some logging gear and WBO sensors and 'Roll your own' with Tunerpro. Sorry, I don't know who is 'Good' in the US but I know a charlatan when I see one.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    The part number are: N0520.1AD and N0521.1AD. Check Amazon and maybe St Paul Harley Davidson. They are available. MIke
  20. 1 point
    I have a crossover under the bike i meant no header crossover in front of the engine. What should my co trimm be at? Docc, Minstral headers, and cans,and crossover. sorry for being so vague.
  21. 1 point
    That is very nice.... Congrats. Ciao
  22. 1 point
    I have zero confidence in the Guzzi presses switch. if you crack the fitting going to one of the heads it will soon let you know if there is oil pressure or not. I suggest you add an oil pressure gauge, oil is normally ~ 60 psi
  23. 1 point
    Maybe docc he means the header link pipe? CO set at zero isnt right either is it docc? Ciao
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Well , my favorite ! I will leave it at that .
  26. 1 point
    Since there does not seem to be one for these "parts bin" neither-here-nor-there models, might as well begin one. ZGUKTC0254M111321 located in western Washington State, USA.
  27. 1 point
    Resuscitating this DOA thread, I think its a Lilac 200 or 250. OK, maybe not.
  28. 1 point
    That would be this very thread . . . Circuit breaker has been running three years, 14,000 miles/22.500 km. I routinely shut it off to isolate the battery and regulator during external charging as instructed by my OEM regulator supplier.
  29. 1 point
    a more up to date pic of mine... yeah got bord with it after 12 years and changed a few tings, it can go back to factory easy as... and I re tuned it to... best its ever ran...
  30. 1 point
    Woodcraft has a good selection of clip-ons in all kinds of sizes and rises: https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/category?cid=131&clev=1&hs=1
  31. 1 point
    Docc When it reads the Ecu that is what comes up. I cross referenced it with the number of the Titanium map in the archives. It does not have a preferance for an 04 lemans but I selected one that used the 15m Ecu and as close to the model year as I coudl. I think it was the Rosso Corsa.
  32. 1 point
    Removing the fairing is a piece of cake. You can tie it down with Canyon Dancers, or some such if you don't want to remove it. Using the work stand lets you remove the rear wheel. To remove the front, put the rear in the vise on your lift.. you *do* have one, don't you.. tie it down in back and raise the front with a jack under the pan.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Thanks, Tom! https://www.grote.com/products/90941-5-grote-7-inch-led-headlight-sealed-beam-replacement/
  35. 1 point
    Sounds as if it is an English bike ... Wait, my LMIII has that, too. I never really noticed it until now. Maybe that was a part of riding in analog times. Ride, burn fuel, have fun. Don't talk about it to the internet. Battery empty -> recharge. Shocks wobbly -> ignore. Yet, somehow I can't remember flat batteries or wobbly shocks or other annoying things. A tank was 20 litres was 20 Marks. Now it's 15 litres and 50 Marks. But I have a special forum for every single bike I own. Substantial progress was really slow the last 30, 40 years, wasn't it?
  36. 1 point
    No worries. Have at it. I am sorry if my post ruffled your feathers. It was not meant to be so. I was simply pointing out the physical issues of trying to adapt LED lighting to a halogen light. Docs example wasn't as bad as some, but it was still less than a good halogen from what I could see. But have at it, enjoy. As long as you are not blinding me coming the other direction as is so often the case with retro fit LEDs (and sometimes even with factory LEDs) it don't matter to me.
  37. 1 point
    Welcome! Hey, post up some pics of your Ballabio!
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    I really like that tank decal , where can l get them ?
  40. 1 point
    I actually have all my must-haves. Under the right circumstances, I could add a bevel Ducati, or a Vincent, or a Panther. Laverdas are cool. But I don't think any of these qualify as cheap or available. I'd like to have back my '68(?) Ducati 450 Jupiter. And my '72 Honda TL125.
  41. 1 point
    My previous post should have read "silly enough to pay $2000 to service the 916". That's just overcharging, shop around. I've been working on 4 valve Desmo systems since the mid 1980's since they were first released first the 851,888,916,996 and 1098 which are all the same basic engine design,although the 1098 is easier valve clearance wise, so I guess thats only 34 years.As well as the bevel drive and 2 valve belt desmos before that. Part of my 996 experience is at WSB level and 2 valve belt Desmo's at world championship level,so I thought it might be valuable to get the perspective from someone thats actually done the work on them for the pleasure of it as apposed to the view of someone thats doing it for the profit. Plenty of people including competent home mechanics have been turned away from Ducati's because of overcharging by shops for servicing and I'm here to point out its not really valid The 916 series was a major leap forward in ease of servicing and access and is quite an easy bike to work on. Pulling the engine on a 916 to do the heads is totally unnecessary. Personally nothing I own mechanically ever crosses the dealer doorstep after purchase. After having worked side by side with mechanics from several dealerships, car and bike over the last 35 years (or so) I'd rather just do it myself and worry about the warranty issues if there are any when they arise or just absorb the cost myself. It often works out cheaper that way in the long term. Ciao
  42. 1 point
    Try searching "tank strap rubber". There is a local company over here that makes EPDM extruded sections in many sizes. https://www.rubbermark.co.nz/product/tank-strap/ Let me know if I can help with ordering some.
  43. 1 point
    Not likely now to score any of the below, though I do have a 2004 V11 Sport Naked consolation prize in lieu of number three. My grail bikes in decreasing order of beauty:
  44. 1 point
    Maybe from the USA? So ... it's not easy: Vehicles, motor vehicles and trailers registered in a foreign country and which have already fulfilled customs formalities or those referred to in article 53, paragraph 2 of the Legislative Decree 30 August 1993, n.331, if prescribed, are allowed to circulate in Italy for the maximum duration of one year, based on the registration certificate of the State of origin. As you can see you can circulate for a period of one year with the American bike with original plate but you must have these original documents with you: a) TITLE (vehicle registration document) B) Custom Bubble (shows that the vehicle is your property and you have fulfilled the customs duties and therefore VAT and DUTY) c) Purchase Invoice d) REGISTRATION CARD (it is our respective Italian stamp or property tax) e) Insurance VALID ON THE ITALIAN TERRITORY Obviously if you stay more than a year you must provide for the registration of the car with Italian license plate otherwise there is the immediate seizure of the vehicle with the relative administrative sanctions. as for you, you must have the INTERNATIONAL DRIVING LICENSE (VALID).
  45. 1 point
    Been looking for a Scura, but coudnt help myself. Defnitly IPA time. Cheers tom. Sent fra min SM-G903F via Tapatalk
  46. 1 point
    WD-40 could be bad. But another possible issue is the brake lever is not adjusted correctly. It sounds like the lever may be not allowing the piston in the master cylinder to fully retract. That can cause the brake to drag, and as it drags the fluid heats up. The fluid heats up and expands. Without a way to bleed the pressure from the expanding fluid the brake applies more pressure on the pads to the disk. Thus continuing the cycle. If the seals swell, that is clearly bad, But for it to apply more brake pressure as it gets hot points to te master not being allowed to fully return so that fluid can freely pass back into the reservoir. Another way it can happen is if the reservoir is over-filled.
  47. 1 point
    Mountain roads open and passable only with mounted chains
  48. 1 point
    ...which is why I don't even bother anymore. The old can multi-capacitor electrolytics in the power supply filter circuit are what we're primarily talking about, and there was a time where one really only had two options to replace them: 1) Find a NOS can capacitor, but those are almost certainly "dried out" too 2) Replace the can with a board and individual capacitors, or gut the can and pack it with individual capacitors. Option 2 is still very popular to retain the vintage look and use discrete individual high quality capacitors. But one can also now buy reproduction can multi-capacitors that are made on the same tooling as the originals. So to me there really isn't much point in trying to reform these old capacitors, and as you mention that are more likely than not to "pop" later even so. And for the other smaller electrolytic caps throughout a chassis, some/many might be candidates for non-electrolytics as a replacement, and even if you have to keep some electrolytic capacitors (usually due to rating, electrolytics can handle much more power) there are lots on the market of very high quality like Panasonic and Silmic. Oh, and on the topic of popping electrolytic capacitors, many (I'd venture to say MOST) failures in cheapo electronics these days such as in computers and LCD TVs are due to very cheap electrolytic capacitors leaking(popping). If one is handy with a soldering iron, you can probably fix these for a few dollars with better quality capacitors (105C rated is best) that will likely never leak again. Here are photos and descriptions of a popped and leaking junk capacitors: http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Here are some shots of the Oxford adaptation. Oxford and Rapid Transit are two companies that offer top loading expandable bags with size options that were decent enough to put on the Guzzi. I chose the smaller as I wanted to access the passenger pegs and not overwhelm the machine. They are plenty big enough though, the seat cowl fits in them and there is plenty of storage for a week long camp trip. The zipper on the centreline of the interior of the bag is where I installed the re-shaped belly plastic from the Tekno bag. You can see the edge of the 3/16 ABS back-panel on the inside. Had to buy slightly longer metric mounting bolts for the Klickfix latch, and new bolts for aluminum brackets. Just melted off the stock mount straps with a red hot coathanger and cobbled the brackets from some angle stock. I guess a guy could put cap nuts on the inside if you didnt want any runs in yer nylons. Anyway, there's a luggage option for any interested.
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